Dash lights not coming on

Another update. Just tested the battery and alternator and they are both good. The radio does not stay on when the car is off (which would be indicative of being hot wired, right?)

One more update for now. I decided to drop it off at the shop after testing the battery and alternator. On the way there I decided to fiddle with the radio. I ejected a cd and then I noticed that while the radio was off the face lights kept cutting on and off. So, I'm really thinking its the radio now, but alas I dropped it at the shop and will ask them about my theory in the morning. Is it possible that the wires that the radio is connected to in the car itself are bad? Is that something that is easily checked and can the auto shop do it or will the radio shop have to check and fix those? I'm just wondering how extensive this might get. Bc the original radio was shorting out and the auto shop suggested a new radio. Could it be coincidence that this new radio is bad, or more likely that it is the car wires to the radio and not the radio wires?

The shop discovered there was a bad battery cell, so they replaced it and are letting it sit for 24hrs before trying to start it. I should know in a couple hours. They don't think it's the radio, but I'm going to keep an eye on that and take it back to the radio shop if need be. Thanks guys!

At first had the problem of my brake lights not working when I turned my headlights on. Then my dash light stopped working, but when I noticed that my brake lights were working again when I turned the headlights on. But last night when I turned my headlights on dash light still not working, but all my tail lights were not but still had brake lights. This has been very confusing and stressful.

I'm having a similar problem. If there is corrosion, how do you fix it?

I was changing climate control bulbs with LED's and while turning in one of the bulbs using a square drive (dumb idea) I shorted the circuit somewhere. Since then the climate lights, dash cluster lights, and radio lights all don't work when the headlights are switched on. The back lighting's there if the lights are off. I checked all internal fuses under the dash, nothing looks fried on the back of the cluster itself, and the one interior light fuse under the hood in that fuse box was fine also. My front blinkers work. I'm about to check my rear ones now since reading this post.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/dash-lights-not-coming-on

Taillights are fine, so that rules out relay 13 right?

So by reading that diagram, as well as the fuse charts I've seen, I'm assuming the Headlight switch relay (since everything stops working once the switch is clicked on). I'm not clearly seeing which one that is. Also I'll note than when switching from parking lights to full headlights the "D" and "OD Off" lights flicker quickly.

As you can see in the chart, numerous things contribute to "gauge assembly". Is there a better way to rule this out? I know how to check fuses but relays are different. You have to connect them and feel for the switching right? Or is there a way to "jump" the terminals to then see if the panel works without the relay?

Okay, so I tested the relays with a simpler method I found (two terminals to the power source and the other two via resistance meter). The relays 13 and 14 (taillight relay and starter cut) were fine. 11 and 12 are turn signal and power windows, none of which were affected so I didn't bother with that.
Under hood fuses all check out.
Under dash fuses were all over the place. Unless I'm not understanding this, I used the circuit tester and 1, 4, 6, 8, 9, 10, 12, 13, 14, 17, 18, 19, 20, 23, 24 were all unlit. Only a handful lit up the light. This makes no sense to me since a lot of those fuses power things like the ignition coil, radio power, key-less receiver unit, power windows, etc. And those all work! What the heck am I missing? The wiring diagram you listed has the headlight switch connecting to the main circuit which feeds down into things like the heater controls and such. But there's no relay on the board for that. Where is this relay? Or is that actually the headlight switch knob? And If so, how the heck do I test that?

Looking at this wiring diagram I got elsewhere, also for 03 CRV, shows a link between B3 and A15 (which I think it s typo and should be A3 and B 15, because both show G502 which looking at both wiring harnesses, is ground. But if the ground is simply a screw somewhere, how can it be a bad ground from a light bulb shorting?

2004 Honda CRV

how do you change dash lights on a 2004 honda crv

Oh well, I feel like silly. I did this with the key off.
But still, the relays passed my resistance tests. And the fuses themselves I checked with a resistance meter (still plugged in with car off) and they all passed, indicating to me that the fuses weren't blown. Unless I'm not understanding fuse testing properly. But you're saying I should do the light tests with these fuses with the car on?

All good answers. FWIW, the bulbs alone can be replaced; you don't need to buy the $10 bulb holder and bulb at the Honda stealer. The parts fiche shows the bulb and bulb holder separate, but Honda only sells the assembly.

P/n 2721 at www. Interlight. Biz works. You get 10 bulbs for about.90 each if you order 20 (two little cases).
This is also the bulb used on Audi CHMSL that use incandescent 1.4W bulbs.

The #77 bulb at autozone or advance auto parts won't work. Diameter too large for the honda bulb holder.

I just did this bulb replacement on a 2004 CRV.