Engine misfire?

Tiny
SEGIE81
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 DODGE DURANGO
  • 5.7L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 200,000 MILES
Hi guys,

I have had a p3425 code, so replaced the solenoid for that but also replaced another one looking in need of replacing. Now the p3425 code is gone but now replaced with p1411 and p0301. I'm assuming it's the solenoid I replaced. But wanted to get an opinion. Also, when the MDS cuts in the rough idle I am seeing goes away. Only under acceleration or idle is it rough. Was running fine before the solenoid replacement. And codes p1411 and p0301 were not present before repair.
Saturday, January 5th, 2019 AT 2:44 PM

50 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,643 POSTS
Hello,

It sounds like you may have an intake gasket leak when you put the engine back together. Here is a guide to help confirm the problem:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

This guide can help as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

Please run down this guide and report back.

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Monday, January 7th, 2019 AT 12:05 PM
Tiny
SEGIE81
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Thanks Ken, removed everything again, cleaned everything off, used contact cleaner in the connectors and tightened everything up. Put he intake back on made sure all bolts were tight, and all issues resolved.

Thanks for your response and help
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Saturday, January 12th, 2019 AT 7:19 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,643 POSTS
Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.
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Saturday, January 12th, 2019 AT 11:38 AM
Tiny
WENDY ANNE WARD
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2006 DODGE DURANGO
  • 5.7L
  • V8
  • 60,000 MILES
Started with a lost of power and engine rattling shaking. Had the computer read and it stated that it was a Misfire on cylinder seven I took it to the garage and the mechanic said it was some pipe that looked burnt out. I had it replaced but it did not help the problem. Next had the engine removed and new seals were put it. All new spark plugs. The pistons and cylinder were inspected and looked fine. Fuel injectors were cleaned and all. The engine was put in and the same problem as before. It was running no better. Read the computer again and it showed a faulty o2 sensor so replaced all of them, that did not help either. Read the computer again and now it reads code P1072. Checked the MAF and it seems fine. We are at a lost here any help on where to go next would be great.
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Wednesday, October 7th, 2020 AT 11:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Take to a garage that can freeze frame and read the sensors, seems like where you took it they did not know what they were doing. also check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it. then look for a vacuum leak. this can be anything from a basic ignition problem to some thing more serious which seems to have been eliminated. also do a compression check the engine should have never come out to begin with especially since you still have the problem. check plug wire and coil for resistance as well. from what you have written it almost sounds like a home garage where the person wasn't really qualified on what to do.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

this guide can help as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough
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Wednesday, October 7th, 2020 AT 11:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WENDY ANNE WARD
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
These mechanics here are a joke. I forgot to mention that we are living in Iceland and our Dodge was imported. There are no dealerships or garages around us that have a lot of experience with these engines. I am hoping for the best here since money is flying out the window on this. Will put the car in the garage again tomorrow and have them do what you said to do. Also after reading what I can online about this I am seeing a lot of people who state that they cannot start the car even. That is not my problem at all. She starts fine and runs at idle great, but what is noticeable is the shaking or vibrating that is going on and the lost of power when you are driving. I am just mentioning this since you stated to do a fuel pressure test which will be done in the morning. Even if this part is okay would the fuel pressure have anything to do with it or are we ruling out whatever we can at this point?
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Wednesday, October 7th, 2020 AT 11:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Have them spray choke cleaner around vacuum lines for the leak.
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Wednesday, October 7th, 2020 AT 11:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MISTY H
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2005 DODGE DURANGO
  • 4.7L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 168,000 MILES
I recently purchased a 2005 Durango after my 2004 Durango limited hemi was totaled. This new one is in excellent shape. Was driving no problems, no codes, no engine trouble. Took it to dealership to recall passenger airbag. I got home filled all fluids, and I had to spray engine down will some coolant that leaked when filling radiator up. We went out to dinner and on way home the truck suddenly started to misfire. This came out of no where. We did a sudden increase in speed to pass a car. I put the scanner on it and it came back with cylinder one misfire. I got into the component check and found not only did cylinder one misfire 42 times, cylinder 6 misfired 2 times and cylinder 8 misfired once. There has been absolutely no problems until I hosed off the engine compartment. Could the harness have gotten wet and just needs to dry out or could something else have happened out of nowhere? Nothing like this has happened until it was at the dealership and they replaced airbag and checked fluids. I did purchase new spark plugs for it and just haven't put them in yet as there was no problems till now. Do I just need to see if it was the harness that got wet or do I need to look further into this?

Misty
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Wednesday, October 7th, 2020 AT 11:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello,

It very well could have been water getting down into your spark plugs and causing your vehicle misfires. I have included in the diagrams below a troubleshooting flowchart for P0300, which is a generic DTC for random misfires, But it will apply to each cylinder individually as well. Please go through it and let us know what you find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Wednesday, October 7th, 2020 AT 11:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
POOL_PLAYR
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2005 DODGE DURANGO
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 69,000 MILES
Hey all, a misfire problem that has been haunting me for almost a year. It comes and goes. The first time was a coil pack fixed the problem. Over the last 8 months or so, it starts missing randomly and stops after a few days. It has gotten really bad over the last few weeks. It kept giving either a cylinder 3 or 4 misfire (5 once as well, I believe). I replaced the spark plugs, and 2 more coil packs, and drove great for about 2 weeks. Now its missing worse and more than ever (before only when warm). The engine light finally came on today, and its reading cylinder 4 AGAIN. This cylinder has a new plug and coil pack. I also re-arranged the injectors over the last few weeks. WHAT is causing this?
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Wednesday, October 7th, 2020 AT 11:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
When you remove the plug, what does it look like? Is it wet, oil fouled? Have you checked the crank sensor to make sure it is in good shape as well as the coil wires? You could have a break in the insulation causing the problem. Check them for continunity all the way back to the PCM. While checking, move the wires around to see if they cause a change in resistance.

If all that is good, we need to check compression in that cylender.

Let me know what you find.
Joe
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Wednesday, October 7th, 2020 AT 11:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
POOL_PLAYR
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
The plug looks fine, as well as the wires/electrical plug that plugs into the coil pack. I have been thinking about the crank sensor as well, but I believe that will trip its own code, won't it? Whenever it starts misfiring, it trips the same cylinder number for a few days and randomly changes to another. I was a tech for GM 6 years ago, but did more steering/suspension/brakes than other repairs so I have a good knowledge of autos but am just a little rusty on the self-diagnosis end of it. I miss all the special equipment the dealer suppied!
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Wednesday, October 7th, 2020 AT 11:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
Remove the injector and rail and check for dirt
very common
Never seen a random misfire that comes and go caused by a bad crank sensor
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Wednesday, October 7th, 2020 AT 11:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
POOL_PLAYR
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
When I swapped the injectors between cylinders a couple weeks ago there was no dirt or grime past the o-rings on any of them. They looked good/clean.

Up until this weeks episode, it only missfired when the engine was warm, and got significantly worse if I was driving around town for an extended period of time. After I replaced the spark plugs (that were only 6 months old)it ran like new. Now after 2 weeks of it driving fine, it has started acting up again, but now its missing from the second I crank it up in the morning. It makes me think that it was coincidence that it stopped when I changed the plugs. Because of the history of this problem over the last 8 months (only missfires for a few days then goes away as randomly as it started). But now that it is coming and going every few weeks instead of every few months, it makes me think that I have a part/sensor on its last leg thats either about to or already has completely burnt out or failed. During the older episodes, it acted up more at half to full throttle and was fine at lower rpm's. Now any throttle, unless absolutly babying it, makes it act up. And if it helps, after I ran the AC for 10 min the other day the misfire got almost twice as bad even after I turned the AC off and has stayed this way.

I have too much pride to take it to a shop, and I am very mechanically inclined, but this issue has me stumped.

SO. The plugs are new/look good, there is a new coil pack on the current problem cylinder, the injectors looked good and were swapped around, and I've owned this truck for over 2 years of its 5 year life and put over half the miles on it and have taken good care of it during this time.

Anyone have any personal experiences with this SUV/motor that might stand out in this situation? Or any other ideas?
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Wednesday, October 7th, 2020 AT 11:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
AC0394
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2003 DODGE DURANGO
  • V8
  • AWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150 MILES
I have an 03 durngo with the 5.9 and im having random misfires on the entire right bank. Replaced all the typical ignition parts and even pulled and cleaned the fuel rail. Still happening. Not too noticible at idle but gets bad when I get on it. Typically barely existant until it warms up just a little bit. Running fuel system cleaner through helps but as soon as that tank of fuel is gone and replaced, the problem returns
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Wednesday, October 7th, 2020 AT 11:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ERNEST CLARK
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,730 POSTS
When you replaced the ignition components, did you also replace the coils? And did you have a check engine light on? If so, did you have the computer scanned?

If you've eliminated the ignition system as a possible cause, then the fuel system is the next target for diagnosis. Begin with the fuel filter. A clogged filter will allow the engine to run at idle but when you accelerate it'll bog the engine down because it can't flow enough fuel to supply the load. But if you're sure that only the right bank is misfiring, then it'll have to be something on that bank causing the problems. I'd believe it would be the injectors are clogged or the wiring for that side is faulty.
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Wednesday, October 7th, 2020 AT 11:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GARYJ
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
  • 2002 DODGE DURANGO
77,000 miles 360 v8
At 40-45 it starts missing shaking bad above that it is fine. I put plugs in still does it. Someone told me it was the tourgue converter lock up switch?
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Wednesday, October 7th, 2020 AT 11:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
NINA ENTRERI
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
The torque converter would not lock up during acceleration, only at your top gear at an even pace (the torque converter drops your engine rpm's at higher speed to increase fuel economy and decrease the demand on your engine) so probably not. I don't have a good guess on this one yet, but I'm working on it.
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Wednesday, October 7th, 2020 AT 11:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GARYJ
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
The guy told me the 4wd switch stoped working
as soon as that stoped working thats when it started doing it. When it shifted into high gear
around 40-45 that's when it starts doing it.
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Wednesday, October 7th, 2020 AT 11:18 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MARINEMAN9123
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
We had a similar problem with ours
take it to a free inspection tranny place and they can narow it down but it may have something to do with the clutch packs of your higher gear but more likely its the cylinoid and governor ones a switch ones a sensor and it made ours better
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Wednesday, October 7th, 2020 AT 11:18 AM (Merged)

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