Recently replaced driver's CV joint popped out while driving

Hello,

I am not sure what went wrong with your vehicle here. In the diagrams down below I have included the installation guide from the vehicle manufacturer for the drive axles on your vehicle along with specs for two different types of CV boots and clamps as well. I hope that this helps and get back to us with how everything turns out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Turn the wheel out all the way and have a look at the CV-Joints. If the boot is split, you need to change the joint. Check both sides!
Cost is usually 200.00 to 300.00 per side, unless you do it yourself. Then axles can be had for about 80.00 to 90.00 each. You'll need a socket large enough to remove the axle nut, and a tool to break the ball joint free. Then just pull the strut rotor and all outward until the cv-joint clears the knuckle, I would change the whole shaft, Reanufactured axles are pretty cheap, and it's quicker and easier than messing with seperating the old joint! Use a bucket under the inner joint to catch any tranny fluid that might leak out! If you have trouble with the inboard joint, use to large flat blade screwdrivers, or prybars and pop it out of the differential.

Hello,

No, there is a special tool for pulling the CV Axles out. Or you can use a pry bar, you just have to have a good pitch piont then push the Axle in and snap it out quickly. It will in most cases take a feew times to get it out.

.

The alxe needs removed regardless if it is getting replaced or just the boot. Aprox 1.5 hours. Plus, add another.5 hours if you replace the boot only because the joint must come off.

The half shaft (axle) will be aprox 200.00.

Not really your model the toe is all that is set but with the milage a 4 wheel alingment be a good idea.

Nope, cvs are only for driving the vehicle and they are splined and flexible, they will not affect wheel alignment unless you messed with somethign when removing the joints.

You need to remove the bearing bolt and snap ring. See below

Your mechanic is right but the problem in this case is due to wear in the inner cv joint housing. I prefer to disassemble the inner joints and look for the wear rather than replace both half shafts. It is not unheard of to get a rebuilt assembly with a worn housing that got overlooked. Then you'll have the same problem and incorrectly assume the mechanic diagnosed the problem incorrectly.

Once you have the housing apart and cleaned of all the grease, there are six highly polished rolling surfaces the rollers ride on that must be checked. If you can feel the slightest waviness on any of those surfaces you really have junk. Normally you must shine a light in there and look for the slightest irregularity in the reflections. If you see a tiny wave in the reflection and you're not sure that's the cause of the problem, ... It is.

Those rollers have to run back and forth in the housing as it rotates. That allows the shaft to change length and angle. When accelerating, the torque makes it harder for the rollers to move over the raised areas so they tend to bind. When the shaft can't change length freely it pushes and pulls on the spindle as it rotates. That tugs on the lower control arm which is mounted on rubber bushings. The steering linkage is also connected to the spindle so as it gets pushed back and forth, it tugs on the steering linkage causing the shimmy you feel.

Replacing engine mounts can cause this problem to occur. The wear is already there in the housing but at least one engine mount sets the location, side-to-side, of the engine and transmission. Repositioning the engine just a little one way or the other will change the area the rollers run in and that is when the problem may occur. The engine mounts didn't CAUSE the problem. They merely caused it to become evident. You may reduce the shimmy by repositioning the engine mount but that's not really addressing the main cause.

Most of the time a new inner housing from the dealer is real expensive, often two or three times as much as the cost of a rebuilt half shaft. That's why to save time and therefore your money, many mechanics don't waste it inspecting parts. It's less expensive in the long run to just replace both shafts than it is to identify the bad one and replace just that one.

Check the hub bearing, and ball joint, you should have been hearing a growling noise if its the bearing.
Check the lug nuts too!

Sounds like a bad joint. I would check the front end to make sure nothing is loose. Also check to see which cv boot is torn open.