Recently replaced driver's CV joint popped out while driving

Hello,

I am not sure what went wrong with your vehicle here. In the diagrams down below I have included the installation guide from the vehicle manufacturer for the drive axles on your vehicle along with specs for two different types of CV boots and clamps as well. I hope that this helps and get back to us with how everything turns out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Tires and Wheels problem
1995 Toyota Camry 4 cyl Wheel Drive Type unknown Automatic 97000 miles
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My car is making a clankng noise when I turn left or right. It seemed to have started when I was making left hand turns but now it makes the noise on both turns. Is it the CV joints and how much approximately will it cost me to repair? Can i drive it for a couple more days or is this an immediate thing I need to do?

Turn the wheel out all the way and have a look at the CV-Joints...if the boot is split, you need to change the joint. Check both sides!
Cost is usually 200.00 to 300.00 per side, unless you do it yourself...then axles can be had for about 80.00 to 90.00 each...You'll need a socket large enough to remove the axle nut, and a tool to break the ball joint free. Then just pull the strut rotor and all outward until the cv-joint clears the knuckle, I would change the whole shaft, Reanufactured axles are pretty cheap, and it's quicker and easier than messing with seperating the old joint! Use a bucket under the inner joint to catch any tranny fluid that might leak out! If you have trouble with the inboard joint, use to large flat blade screwdrivers, or prybars and pop it out of the differential...

Drive Train Axles Bearings problem
1995 Toyota Camry Front Wheel Drive Automatic

Does the snap ring at the end of the inner shaft have to be removed in order for the shaft to come out? If so how can I get to it?

[quote:c922c642f3="sailorblue2007"]Drive Train Axles Bearings problem
1995 Toyota Camry Front Wheel Drive Automatic

Does the snap ring at the end of the inner shaft have to be removed in order for the shaft to come out? If so how can I get to it?[/quote:c922c642f3]

Hello,

No, there is a special tool for pulling the CV Axles out. Or you can use a pry bar, you just have to have a good pitch piont then push the Axle in and snap it out quickly. It will in most cases take a feew times to get it out.

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What is the estimated time and cost to replace a CV boot or an axel on a 1995 Toyoda Camry Station Wagon? Thanks

The alxe needs removed regardless if it is getting replaced or just the boot. Aprox 1.5 hours. Plus, add another .5 hours if you replace the boot only because the joint must come off.

The half shaft (axle) will be aprox 200.00.

Does the front end need to be aligned after changing both cv joints?

Not really your model the toe is all that is set but with the milage a 4 wheel alingment be a good idea.

nope, cvs are only for driving the vehicle and they are splined and flexible, they will not affect wheel alignment unless you messed with somethign when removing the joints.

hi, thank you for your time.

My name is Dempsey, I am having a problem taking my passenger side axle off. I have taken everything off but the axle won't pull off. Is there something else holding it on that I don't know about?

You need to remove the bearing bolt and snap ring. See below

Hi friends,

My '93 Camry has been shaking when stepping on the gas from a slow speed or stop and from what I can tell, others have experienced this with different causes.

For my Camry, if I'm at a stop light at a freeway on-ramp and then I need to quickly get up to freeway speeds, the car shakes and this is felt in the steering wheel. Thus, this problem occurs when I am accelerating somewhat aggressively (for this little motor).

I must first state that I feel I have a good mechanic where I now live in southern California as I have had good experiences with his work in the past. He told me that I need to replace the CV Axles to correct this shaking. The car has about 173,000 miles on it now and I did have the Axles replaced several years ago when the car had 106,000 miles on the clock. I did the replacement at that time because, the vehicle was clicking when making turns and upon looking under the car, I could see the boots were visibly torn (i.e. - from my understanding, the 2 signs of bad axles). Upon replacing the axles years back at 106K miles, the clicking noises ended.

Presently, I'm not getting a clicking sound upon turning the vehicle nor do the boots appear to be torn. Last year I had some work done on the car and did have the engine mounts (top and bottom) replaced as he pointed out the rubber had deteriorated. Therefore, I doubt the engine mounts are part of the problem.

Also, as it was definitely time for 4 new tires on the car, a couple of months back I had new tires balanced and installed which did not noticeably improve or worsen the vehicle shaking problem.

My question is: Is it likely that bad CV Axles are the cause of the car shaking like this? I am about to begin commuting a significantly longer distance soon and as my mechanic hasn't steered me wrong over the 2 years I've gone to him, I am leaning toward getting the work done. I would like to get your thoughts as I haven't heard of this shaking being a symptom of faulty Axles. Is this possible?

Your mechanic is right but the problem in this case is due to wear in the inner cv joint housing. I prefer to disassemble the inner joints and look for the wear rather than replace both half shafts. It is not unheard of to get a rebuilt assembly with a worn housing that got overlooked. Then you'll have the same problem and incorrectly assume the mechanic diagnosed the problem incorrectly.

Once you have the housing apart and cleaned of all the grease, there are six highly polished rolling surfaces the rollers ride on that must be checked. If you can feel the slightest waviness on any of those surfaces you really have junk. Normally you must shine a light in there and look for the slightest irregularity in the reflections. If you see a tiny wave in the reflection and you're not sure that's the cause of the problem, . . . it is.

Those rollers have to run back and forth in the housing as it rotates. That allows the shaft to change length and angle. When accelerating, the torque makes it harder for the rollers to move over the raised areas so they tend to bind. When the shaft can't change length freely it pushes and pulls on the spindle as it rotates. That tugs on the lower control arm which is mounted on rubber bushings. The steering linkage is also connected to the spindle so as it gets pushed back and forth, it tugs on the steering linkage causing the shimmy you feel.

Replacing engine mounts can cause this problem to occur. The wear is already there in the housing but at least one engine mount sets the location, side-to-side, of the engine and transmission. Repositioning the engine just a little one way or the other will change the area the rollers run in and that is when the problem may occur. The engine mounts didn't CAUSE the problem. They merely caused it to become evident. You may reduce the shimmy by repositioning the engine mount but that's not really addressing the main cause.

Most of the time a new inner housing from the dealer is real expensive, often two or three times as much as the cost of a rebuilt half shaft. That's why to save time and therefore your money, many mechanics don't waste it inspecting parts. It's less expensive in the long run to just replace both shafts than it is to identify the bad one and replace just that one.

Right front wheel just started wobbling. What do I need to replace, hub and front wheel bearing or could it be a CV joint? I'm not familiar with cv joints.

Thanks
Russ

Check the hub bearing, and ball joint, you should have been hearing a growling noise if its the bearing.
Check the lug nuts too!

I am removing the cv joints to take out the drive axle. I think everything is loose but the cv joints do not want to come loose from the engine and the transmission

Hi. My husband and I just took apart our camry to get to the transmission. We couldn't get them out either, so I looked around online and someone had stated that you need two pry bars with equal pressure on both sides of the shaft to pull out the drive axle from the tranny. Hope that helps. (We used two cro-bars and "popped" the axle off the transmission. Worked perfectly, no damage incurred.

Hi, When i drive my car down the road going straight it does not make any noise it rides good. Whe i turn the wheel ia slight bit to the left there is a Knocking noise coming from the front end, i don't feel the knocking in the steering or in the car just the noise of the knocking. I was wondering if this is the CV Joint making the noise or possibly the tie rod. Thanks

P.S This doesen't just happen when i am applying the brakes if i turn the wheel the slightest is makes the noise while going down the road and it doesn't make the noise while in park or idleing.

sounds like a bad joint. I would check the front end to make sure nothing is loose. Also check to see which cv boot is torn open.

Hi I just changed a cv shaft on my2 litre Toyota camry 1993 passenger side now I hav a small leak from where the shaft incerts into the transmission what cud be the cause of this

I think there's an o-ring on the shaft you managed to foul up.. I've seen it done a few times. Possibly you bought a remanufactured shaft that was assembled wrong and it wasn't your fault. I would assume that if you were able to get everything plugged in and tightened correctly that you did have it in far enough. It looks like the only thing you can do is pull it off and find out what happened. Make sure you get a very clear leak as soon as you can of exactly where its coming from. It may come down to you comparing what you put on with another brand new part (at the store) just to make sure it was assembled together. Might just be a missing o-ring, or you may have destroyed it fighting with the shaft. Either way, not a huge deal except for a pain in the dupa.

Thanks a mill for ur reply. ye it was the correct shaft I compared before I bought it.before I inserted the new shaft there was a circular spring like washer inside the transmission I wasn't sure where it came from so I slipped it on on over the new shaft before I inserted it into the transmission cud this be the cause?

yes, I think that came off the old shaft, so you prob doubled up.

Drive Train Axles Bearings problem
1991 Toyota Camry 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive 220000 miles

I need the dimensions of the toyota special tool for driving a stuck half shaft out of the differential from the other side so i can fabricate one. Outside diameter. width of slot, depth of slot, length of tool

Never hear of that SST -see below **REMOVE LH DRIVE SHAFT Using hub nut wrench and hammer handle or an equivalent, remove the front drive shaft as shown. The other side yank it out w/full force **

My first question is about removal and installation of the specific drive axle in my Camry. All of the instructions/shop manuals refer to the bolt on type used in US production as seen in the first picture.

This type seems straight forward. It just bolts on to the gear shaft. However, this is not the type that is on my Japan production car, as seen in these pictures:

As opposed to the bolt on type, do you just pull these straight out to remove, and push in to install? Is there any additional steps? The second question is generic CV information: If the telltale noises (popping, clicking on turns) is all on the right side, is it the right or is it the left CV that is bad? (I vaguely remember hearing someone say that it is the CV on the opposite side of the noise that is the problem, causing the good one to make the noise.

if your replacing the drivers side one then yes it just pulls out and pushes in. the passengers side is a little trickier with that bearing in the middle. there is a snap ring and or a bolt holding in the bearing so you will need to remove it to get the bearing to slide out. 99 percent of the time the noisy axle is the bad one coming from the wheel that you hear the noise from. its usually the one with the ripped open outer cv boot

Trying to replace passenger axle. I have everything taking off but it wont come out. Tried cutting the old axle in half to get out but no go on it. If I could just get a walk through on how to take it off for a 1988 it would be great. Just cannot figure how to get it off from the transmission.

Hello,

Okay, they are sometime hard to get out if you do not have the proper tool for the job. What you need to do is, with crow bar or pry bar find a good pick point between the axle and the transmission, you will need some extra room to do this. after getting a good point were the bar wont slip out of position easily you need to pull the bar toward the wheel, it may take several attempts to get it out. It has a spring clip to help hold it in the transmission and that is what keeps it from coming out easily, you can see what I am talking about on the new axle.

Hope this Helps.

Mark

Thank you mark. I will give that a try.

Here is a picture I found. it is on a 1996, but may help I believe axle is similar to the 1988.

Hi BFLOYD32,

Just checking to see if you were able to get the axle out... sorry hadn't check in before now.