CV axle mating edge broke?

if it is a big deal, I guess I have to remove it and replace, instructions would be appreciated.

Do you mean the notch in the image, or did it knock a lot more than that away? The clip is needed to retain the bearing that supports the axle. Can you get in there and maybe TIG the piece back in place? Can you get a picture of the break? It might help if we could see the area and tell if there might be an alternative repair.

I don't really know what to do here. Its a frustrating one, and its common to break based on my readings. The axle gets rusty on the groves of the intermediate abd no matter what u do will not budge out. If i knew better i would have removed the c clamp and removed it all as one unit, which i did now since the ring snapped lit. And it still wont split while outside so i ordered an intermediate shaft as well. No room to do anything on there, its between the pan and the subframe.

Okay, looking at that you might have knocked the piece off, but it has been cracked for a while. That is typical of that design, they machine the C-Clip groove, and it creates a stress riser, and a good jolt cracks it. If I remember the oil is actually farther back and there is quite a bit of material in that area. I might just look at making something like an axle retainer plate used with race axles similar to the image. Knock the rest of the clip groove off and bolt a piece over the area with 4 screws to retain the bushing. The one in the picture is made of thick steel and uses larger bolts because it is actually holding the entire axle in the car. You could likely use a piece of 10-gauge steel and 3-4 smaller bolts to do the same thing as it isn't supporting the weight and there isn't a lot of stress on that part. The fact that it has been broken for a long time shows it isn't super critical. You might be able to come up with a part that you can sell.

I don't think it was broken before. I looked at it before i removed the axle because some people said something about it that it may get broken if you knock it hard. It was all in and the c stretch clip was on there like it should. No oil came out when i removed it. I actually changed the fluid a few days before that. Yes, its far from the transfer case, the intermediate shaft is long. Are you talking about drilling holes into the aluminum around the c clip?

It could be oil smudges, but it looks like it was cracked, but it's gone now regardless. Yes, I believe there would be enough material around it for a plate to work. similar to the rough sketch shown. Not sure if you can get a right angle drill up in there or of moving the engine around might help.

Yes I see. very difficult to do much, very limited space, if it was on the passenger would have been much easier. I may just end up making it a 2wd instead, is it fine to leave one axle side in and one not? or even remove both and just block both holes of the diff for now. I may find someone who wants to buy it like it is, but I'll disclose what the issue is and what it needs. Some people won't mind doing the oil pan replacement as far as the car is drive-able though.

Not sure about that conversion, that transmission has an integral differential that uses both front and rear to operate as a real AWD system, not the typical front wheel with rear assist like a typical "AWD" is these days. I'm not sure it would even move with the front disconnected. The RWD version uses a different transmission entirely. Typical German design let's make it as complex as possible, even if not needed. Replacing the pan isn't fun but it's doable. I'm wondering if you could get enough room to get to that flange if you were to pull the axle and go in through the side. It's not going to be easy but using a plate like that would work. I've drilled holes in tight spots using hex drive bits and a quarter drive wrench before! Maybe a bit like that in an electric ratchet?
Book time would be about 12 hours to R&R the pan, not sure what it would take to drill the 4 holes, but with those you could likely use something like a #10 self-tapping bolt.

Problem is the size of the c hose looking piece to support the bearing.Am not sure, because that bearing moves so whatever is going to hold it in place need to not touch it? On the other hand when the c clip was on it the bearing was moving as part of the axle, so am not sure whether the C- piece I need would need to just cover the entire bearing from coming out or whether the original c clip was just holding the center of the bearing from moving while the outside part was moving, that is my concern. Also do you have instructions for replacing the pan?

The clip shouldn't move and the outer race of the bearing shouldn't move either the race I marked in yellow should be a tight fit on one side with the clip. If it was moving with the axle it was a bad bearing and may have damaged the bore even more as it's not supposed to move.

No wasn't moving, everything was fine when the c clip was on, just wanted to know what should move, so basically only the center part would be moving with the axle, correct?

Yes, just the shaft itself. It transfers torque from the diff over to the other axle. There is another possibility that would likely work if it's tight in the bore. Get it all set to go, clean the bearing with brake cleaner on the outer race, clean the inside of the area the bearing sets very well. Now put a light coat of loctite bearing and sleeve retainer in the area the bearing goes. Then hold it in place until it sets. then just to ensure it stays take a punch and put in a few dimples around the housing so it holds the bearing that way. Get the shaft correct the first time as the loctite doesn't like to let go without some heat.

hmm, may try that.

something like this?



https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-2301375-Strength-Bearing-Specified/dp/B086638DFK/ref=asc_df_B086638DFK?mcid=e4c0d7ef82c93c8487eec4cf455250b8&hvocijid=2399971602071857085-B086638DFK-&hvexpln=73&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=721245378154&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2399971602071857085&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012462&hvtargid=pla-2281435182218&th=1

what does this mean here? For Relaxed Fits, O.E.M. Specified, Anaerobic, High Strength, Medium Viscosity, Slip Fit Assemblies.

there is also this, a different one:
High-Strength Sleeve Retainer, High-Temperature, High-Strength, Anaerobic Adhesive, For Large Diameter Components, Active Metals | Green, 6 ml Tube.

The relaxed generally fills larger gaps where the bearing slips in easily but has some motion. The other one is usually for engine sleeves. The first one would work, just be sure there is no oil on either surface. Might even take a plumbers torch and heat it a bit to drive any oil out of the pores before wiping it clean. For the bearing just spray the cleaner on a rag and wipe it down. Just be sure it's all ready to go, then clean it and install it and let it cure.

Thanks. And by this you mean punch dimples in the lactate or elsewhere? Then just to ensure it stays take a punch and put in a few dimples around the housing.

Yep, around the outer edge to stake the bearing itself in. The Loctite would do 90% of it, the staking is just as insurance.

I installed the new intermediate shaft after cleaning where the bearing will be sitting. I then installed the axle and with a socket hammered the outside of it through the rotor, so it sits in and the ring snaps on. I wanted everything to be in one piece so when I apply the Loctite, I won't have to deal with hammering the axle after everything has dried off. So, after I hammered the axle, I installed the cv axle bolt and tightened it but then noticed that the bearing moved to the outside of the edge because the bolt pulled the whole shaft out, so I removed the bolt and hammered it in again and left it. I then tried to apply the lactate but there is barely any room to apply it using the bottle itself as the frame and steering shaft are in the way. I dripped some on my fingers with gloves on and rubbed it against the edge and bearing the most I can. I cannot get to the top of the edge as it's far from reach. I tried with a Q Tip but most of the fluid would start to leak down the Q Tip before I can apply any. I tried putting a few drops on a long screwdriver but that didn't work. So, I only was able to get some around the bearing for now with my fingers. I will let that cure then happy more tomorrow and the day after. The main problem will be whether installing the cv axle bolt after all dry is going to pull the bearing out again. The edge and housing of the oil pan are metallic so I'm not sure I can chisel it around the bearing without it getting broken.

There shouldn't be any outward thrust on that shaft. However, if you can get the Loctite in there it should hold. If not, then I'd still try to get in there and drill a couple holes and make a plate. Sort of a belt and suspenders approach.

So far so good its holding and am surprised as am only able to put few drops by wiping method on the edges because there is no room. i used both Loctite and the used this here. So far it didn't come off. I am just scared of what would happen if it does come out?

That bearing is mainly for support. There shouldn't be a lot of lateral force on it so it should stay put.