CRV 2006 O2 sensor (bank 1 sensor 1)

If your vehicle is a 4 cylinder then you only have one bank. It will be the first sensor you find when starting at the engine and following the exhaust downward (upstream sensor). You should have two. One before the catalytic converter and one after. The parts may be different in some models based on your installed emissions. I would suggest a Denso part. Here is the part number I could find (Part # 234-9064).

Its much cheaper on amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-9064-Fuel-Ratio-Sensor/dp/B001F7GJMK

Yes, either of those brands will work find as long as they are direct fit for that vehicle. Don't use a universal fit.

P0135 - Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

Hold on. Diagnostic fault codes never say to replace parts, and this one is a perfect example. When a part is referenced in a fault code, that part is actually the cause of the code about half of the time. Do you want to bet $450.00 on a 50 percent chance?

This code specifically points to the sensor's internal heater circuit. While it is possible for that heater to burn out, that is not very common. It is much more likely one of the wires has been cut or a pair of connector terminals are corroded. Start with a visual examination of the wires, particularly where the harness runs over any metal brackets with sharp edges, and where it could have fallen down onto hot exhaust parts.

If you DO need to replace the sensor, normally the aftermarket brands work just fine, except on Hondas. In fact, some companies buy them from the same suppliers that make them for the original car manufacturers, then put their own brand name on them, but you have no way of knowing which those are. I've heard stories about recurring or new symptoms after a non-original O2 sensor was installed on a Honda, so consider sticking to the Honda part. The issue is in how they report data to the Engine Computer. Even though that aftermarket sensor might not work properly, the heater circuit should not pose a problem. You may get a fault code related to the new sensor, but that code will not be for the heater circuit, if indeed the original code was due to a defective sensor.

Both sensors share a power supply for the heater and since only one is setting the code, it's a good bet the sensor is bad. I see them all the time. Besides, the dealer already diagnosed this one.