Cranks but will not start

First step is to check OBD for codes.

First comment of value, the fault code did not say the cam sensor was bad. It only means that is the circuit that needs to be checked. A bad sensor will cause that code only about half of the time. Also, if you are getting spark on all the cylinders, the cam sensor is working

A very common cause of stalling popped into my head when I read "inspection". Usually that means a quick visual inspection of exhaust and steering parts, but if it was more in-depth, and involved disconnecting the battery, the result will be stalling at stop signs, and hard starting, unless the accelerator pedal is held down 1/4". Disconnecting the battery causes the Engine Computer to lose its memory including "minimum throttle". Idle speed will be too low until that is relearned.

If the engine restarts when you hold the accelerator pedal down 1/4", to meet the conditions for the relearn to take place, drive at highway speed with the engine warmed up, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching the pedals.

The timing belt was supposed to be replaced at a maximum of 100,000 miles. It's specified as soon as 75,000 for some engines. There's two versions of your engine, and both are "interference" engines. That means if the timing belt broke, there are going to be bent valves. On Chrysler products, the Engine Computer will shut the engine down to protect the valves if the belt jumps two teeth. It takes three teeth for the valves to hit the pistons and be bent. At one tooth off, you would have seen the Check Engine light turn on, and the diagnostic fault code would have been, "Cam and crank sync".

The first half of the job involves taking a lot of stuff apart and removing the old belt. First of all, if the belt is not broken, the valves likely were saved by the Engine Computer shutting the engine off before that damage could occur. If the belt IS broken, the second half of the job is reassembly, and that starts with installing the new belt. At that point, before any more reassembly is done, your mechanic can perform a cylinder leakage test on one or all of the cylinders. The tester simply shows the percentage of leakage when compressed air is forced into the spark plug hole, but by listening at four places, we can tell WHY that leakage is occurring. For bent valves, you'll hear a hiss at the tail pipe if the exhaust valve is bent, and a hiss at the throttle body if an intake valve is bent.

Knowing those test results can give the mechanic the confidence to continue with the reassembly or to know he is recommending valve service that is really needed.

If you are willing to invest more time than dollars in valve repair, you might consider looking for a nearby community college with an Automotive program, and let students do the work. If you have an interest in knowing more about how that works, let me know, and Ill describe how we did that in my program.