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Cranking but will not start

Tiny
YOITSJUSTME
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 CHEVROLET TRUCK
  • 5.7L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150,000 MILES
Okay, so not sure what I am missing. Hoping you will shed some light. So this is concerning the truck listed above Z71 Stepside, extended cab pickup that has the 5.7 Vortec. I have pretty much rebuilt this thing. I had the spider injection go bad on me and when my mechanic said it was to be over $900.00 for him to repair I had to opt to repair it myself. So have installed a brand new spider injector and after reassembly the truck fired right up after charging the battery only ran poorly. I went ahead and replaced the plugs and wires and after a small move of the distributor I had the truck running again. I just left the truck running that day because I am trying to let the gas that did reach the oil to burn off as suggested by one of your guys. Anyway after running for quite a while the truck shut off and would not restart so I just chalked it up to I had ran it out of gas. 4 or 5 days later I finally got a ride to get more gas, which I just got $10.00 worth and put that in the truck. Well I cranked and cranked it and it would not start. So I pumped the gas pedal to the point it should have been flooded. However I couldn’t even smell gas at all so I noticed it was getting fuel and I couldn’t hear the fuel pump kicking on so I went ahead and replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter (which does not have the arrow and the word flow on the side of it instead it has in on one end and out on the other end) and the fuel relay. Still cranking without starting. I can hear the pump kicking on again, I have disconnected the fuel filter and gas came out of it and when I push in the pin on the relief valve some gas comes out on top of the motor. I also disconnected the ground wire and scraped and sanded the section of the frame so that it is for sure got a good connection. Really frustrated at this point and not thinking straight I guess so hoping you can direct me to what I am over looking.
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Friday, June 14th, 2019 AT 12:02 AM

14 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Welcome to 2CarPros.

Well if you checked and confirmed fuel pressure is good, I need you to try something. See if the engine will start for a few seconds if you use starting fluid. If it does, then it's not getting fuel. If it doesn't, then it's ignition related.

Here are a few links you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector

Here are the manufacturer's specs for fuel pressure:

FUEL PRESSURE SPECIFICATIONS
Ignition On, Engine Off
Central FI .................... 415 - 455 kPa (60 - 66 psi)
SFI .................... 385 - 430 kPa (56 - 62 psi)

If it doesn't start with starting fluid, check for spark.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Let me know what you find.

Joe

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Friday, June 14th, 2019 AT 9:31 PM
Tiny
YOITSJUSTME
  • MEMBER
  • 34 POSTS
Hey Joe,

It did try to start with the starting fluid and the fuel pressure seems to be good. I have a brand new spider injector so not sure how to test those. The document for testing the injectors does not apply to my engine. 5.7 Vortec. Haven't had a chance to perform the other test. However, could it e possible that since I was just letting the truck run in order to burn off the gas that was in the oil that it fouled out my plugs and possibly wires?

Thanks for your time.
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Saturday, June 22nd, 2019 AT 2:51 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Welcome back:

Doubtful that the plugs are bad and no to the wires. Did it start with starting fluid?

As far as the injector test, see pics 1 and 2. Number 2 shows the connector.

Let me know.

Joe
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Saturday, June 22nd, 2019 AT 10:15 PM
Tiny
YOITSJUSTME
  • MEMBER
  • 34 POSTS
Okay, yes it start for a second with the starting fluid and then goes back to just cranking. So got frustrated again yesterday and walked away from it and went and did something else. : ) When I decided to return to it I tried to start it and it acted like it was going to start but then on second attempt went right back to just cranking. I went ahead and replaced the ignition module and coil and after installing new parts it once again acted like it was going to start but then went right back to the same problem.
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Wednesday, June 26th, 2019 AT 12:52 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Welcome back:

This isn't an ignition related issue. Since it started with starting fluid for a couple seconds, it is fuel related. Once the starting fluid is burned off, the engine shuts down because there is no more fuel to run. I need you to follow the links in my first post. I think you have a bad fuel pump, but we need to check pressure before we can confirm it.

Do that and let me know the results. If you need help, let me know.

Take care,
Joe
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Wednesday, June 26th, 2019 AT 6:47 PM
Tiny
YOITSJUSTME
  • MEMBER
  • 34 POSTS
Okay, I will check the items you have suggested. I decided to walk through the whole truck today just to make sure that there was not anything that wasn't completely connected and I noticed this cable wire hanging. One end of it is bolted to the frame by the fuel spout and the other end is not connected. Do you know what this cable wire is for and where is it suppose to be connected to? Thanks a bunch for all your assistance I greatly appreciate it.
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Thursday, June 27th, 2019 AT 1:38 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Welcome back:

That's a ground strap. Most likely, it went between the body and the frame at some point which may have something to do with the fuel lift pump not working. Is it mounted on the frame near the cross member? You say fuel spout. Do you mean the body of the truck or the frame? It should jump ground between the two.

Joe
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Thursday, June 27th, 2019 AT 3:24 PM
Tiny
YOITSJUSTME
  • MEMBER
  • 34 POSTS
Hello, Hope you had a great weekend. I'm so teed off I can't barely see straight. I have actually stumbled across what was causing my truck not to start and I am kicking myself for not even giving it a thought. However I have not even messed with it at all so guess that’s why I didn’t. At one point through this darn journey I had someone that knows this motor inside and out and he was going to make sure it was running. Just like everyone he talked the talk but never walked the walk when the whole time he was swapping my new parts with his old crappy parts from his 97 Tahoe. So when I had gotten it running previously and it died and I thought I ran it out of gas and then thought the fuel pump had quit on me the reason that the truck had died when running was because the plugs that plug into the brain had vibrated loose and came unplugged and this happened because that so and so has also taken the clips that were on there to hold the plugs in. Anyway I reconnected the plugs to the brain and secured then with tie straps for now and the truck fired right up. Its running rough so now I have to get things adjusted and get the timing right so that it will run right. Any suggestions on a easy method to set the timing?
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Monday, July 1st, 2019 AT 12:48 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Welcome back:

That's good news and an easy fix. I'm glad to hear you found it. Now for the bad news. Ignition timing can only be changed by reprogramming the PCM using Techline Information System 2000 (TIS 2000) PC, and the Tech 2 scan tool. This isn't something you can just throw a light on. The only thing that can be adjusted by turning the distributor is the camshaft retard offset. Here are the directions for that. The pic attached correlates with the directions.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

CAMSHAFT RETARD OFFSET ADJUSTMENT
CAMSHAFT RETARD OFFSET ADJUSTMENT

Description

pic 1

TEST PROCEDURE
The ignition timing cannot be adjusted. The distributor may need adjusting to prevent crossfire. To insure proper alignment of the distributor, perform the following:

1. With the ignition OFF, install a scan tool to the DLC.
2. Start the engine and bring to normal operating temperature.

IMPORTANT: Cam Retard Offset reading will not be accurate below 1000 RPM.

3. Increase engine speed to 1000 RPM.
4. Monitor the Cam Retard Offset.
5. If the Cam Retard indicates a value of 0° +/-2°, the distributor is properly adjusted.
6. If the Cam Retard does not indicate 0° +/-2°, the distributor must be adjusted.

ADJUSTING PROCEDURE
1. With the engine OFF, slightly loosen the distributor hold down bolt.

IMPORTANT: Cam Retard Offset reading will not be accurate below 1000 RPM.

2. Start the engine and raise engine speed to 1000 RPM.

3. Using a scan tool monitor Cam Retard Offset.

4. Rotate the distributor as follows:
4.1. To compensate for a negative reading, rotate the distributor in the counterclockwise direction.
4.2. To compensate for a positive reading, rotate the distributor in the clockwise direction.

5. Repeat step 4 until 0° +/-2°, is obtained.

6. Turn the ignition OFF.

7. Tighten the distributor hold-down bolt to 3 Nm (25 lb. Ft.).

8. Start the engine, raise engine speed to 1000 RPM and recheck Camshaft Retard Offset.

________________________________________

Keep in mind, it could be running poorly from raw fuel getting into the combustion chamber. You may need to confirm there is no fuel in the oil, the plugs are not fouled and so on.

Let me know if I can help.

Take care,
Joe
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Monday, July 1st, 2019 AT 8:36 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Wow, if it is draining that fast, that isn't good. First, without restarting the vehicle do a load test on the battery so we can confirm the battery is weak.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

If the battery checks good, I question the starter. You will need to have it checked for amperage draw,. I believe most parts stores will do that for you.

If the starter is good, the alternator is new, and the battery is new, we need to determine if there is an electrical draw constant on the battery. Here is a link to help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-dead-overnight

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Friday, August 23rd, 2019 AT 11:43 AM
Tiny
YOITSJUSTME
  • MEMBER
  • 34 POSTS
Okay, well took the battery and the alternator and had both tested and they both tested good. Reinstalled both and truck started. Going to try to do a fuse test this weekend along with trying to see if I have an electrical draw. And hopefully get the starter tested for the amperage draw. Will let you know the outcome.
.

Thanks,

Tj
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Friday, August 30th, 2019 AT 10:15 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Welcome back:

Glad to hear they are good. Let me know what you find when you do the other checks. If I don't hear from you, have a great Labor Day.

Take care,
Joe
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Saturday, August 31st, 2019 AT 7:18 PM
Tiny
YOITSJUSTME
  • MEMBER
  • 34 POSTS
Still trying to complete the fuse test however it keeps burning out my test lights before I can get a fuse pulled.
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Friday, September 13th, 2019 AT 1:45 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Welcome back:

If it is burning out the test light, there must be more amperage than needed. Are you certain the test light is going bad? If you have a volt meter, use that to see how many volts is at the circuit being tested. With the engine off, the battery shouldn't produce more than slightly over 12V,

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Friday, September 13th, 2019 AT 5:38 PM

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