2011 Ford Escape Stalls and Jerks

2011 FORD ESCAPE

88,000 MILES • 2.5L • 4 CYL • 2WD • AUTOMATIC

THEDOCTOR_10

MEMBER
8 POSTS

We are trying to replace the coolant temperature sensor, but have been unsuccessful in finding its location. We have also been unable to find any online guides or motor diagrams that are accurate to my vehicle listed above.

Jan 7, 2019 at 4:12 AM

STEVE W.

✓Experienced Mechanic
15,411 POSTS

Hello, Welcome to 2CarPros.

Could I ask what is prompting you to change the sensor and if this is the hybrid version of the Escape? What code(s) or issues?

I ask because there is a known issue with the ECT setting false codes and causing unrelated issues due to a corroded connector (1164) on the ECT itself. The connector and sensor are located in the middle of the valve cover in the center of the top of the engine. Inspect the cover for dirt/debris that can block the drain area in the rear of the cover. Clean as required. Then remove the connector and check it for corrosion. Minor corrosion can be cleaned and apply some dielectric grease to prevent further damage. For extreme corrosion you will want to get a replacement pigtail for the ECT and a new ECT sensor. Replace the connector and sensor.

Image (Click to enlarge)

Jan 8, 2019 at 12:30 AM

THEDOCTOR_10

MEMBER
8 POSTS

No, it is not hybrid.
The vehicle has been jerking at stop lights occasionally, high gas consumption, will sometimes just turn off while driving-no mph change, just completely shut off, but lights still work, it also has a high idle, and the check engine light goes off and on. We did change the spark plugs recently, as well.

We got it tested and was told it was most likely the coolant temperature sensor.

Attached are images of the codes we were given, the sensor we bought, and a top view of our engine.

Images (Click to enlarge)

Jan 8, 2019 at 6:42 AM

STEVE W.

✓Experienced Mechanic
15,411 POSTS

From those codes I don't think it is the coolant temperature. It looks more like the EVAP purge solenoid is stuck open and allowing the engine to draw in a lot of extra fuel vapor. That would give you the rich mix, poor mileage and other codes.

The sensor you show only feeds the temperature gauge.
The engine temperature the PCM monitors is through the sensor located between the center two coils on the cylinder head. Under the rubber boot. That is the cylinder head temperature sensor.
It could cause a rich condition but it wouldn't cause the EVAP codes and a rich condition both like a stuck open purge solenoid would.

Image (Click to enlarge)

Jan 8, 2019 at 7:32 AM

THEDOCTOR_10

MEMBER
8 POSTS

Would that be a simple fix or would the whole part need to be replaced? Could you also send a diagram of where it'll be located?

Jan 8, 2019 at 7:49 AM

STEVE W.

✓Experienced Mechanic
15,411 POSTS

The solenoid isn't hard. It bolts to the engine on the intake manifold between the large plastic section and the throttle body. See the attached images. There is a quick disconnect that leads to the fuel vapor tank that just unclips. To test the solenoid valve you can disconnect the tube from the top of the valve at item 2, Disconnect it's electrical connector item 3 and then start the engine. There should be no vacuum at the port connection you removed item 2 on the solenoid. If you can hear/feel a vacuum the valve is stuck open. Changing it involves removing the two bolts and pulling it out. Reverse the process to put the new one in, if needed. If the solenoid seems to be okay then you need to do more testing to determine what is causing the issue. For that you really need to have a scan tool to watch the fuel trims and test the system to see what is wrong. A stuck injector could cause the same issue but you don't show any misfires so I'm thinking that likely isn't the problem.

Jan 8, 2019 at 11:44 AM

THEDOCTOR_10

MEMBER
8 POSTS

We can check the evap out. We had gotten a second test done by a former mechanic who said it would most likely be the coolant temperature sensor, but he did not give us a print out of the codes he had gotten. Would you be able to show us the location of the coolant temperature sensor, as well, though?

Jan 8, 2019 at 11:55 AM

STEVE W.

✓Experienced Mechanic
15,411 POSTS

Hmm, the images for the purge valve didn't load for some reason. I'll add them here.

For that sensor all of the information I have doesn't show the ECT sensor you have being used on your engine in your vehicle, it shows only the cylinder head temperature sensor being used for the coolant temp input and fan control inputs to the ECM. Normally the newer Fords only use one or the other and not both types of sensor. It shows the 3.0 V6 engine as having the coolant sensor that you have.

Images (Click to enlarge)

Jan 9, 2019 at 1:20 AM

THEDOCTOR_10

MEMBER
8 POSTS

We checked the evap and yes, there was a lot of suction, so that has to be the root to the problem. We would like to profusely thank you for your help!
Can you maybe send a picture of what the part is suppose to look like for our vehicle? We would much appreciate it.
Thank you. Thank you. Thank you!

Jan 10, 2019 at 6:23 AM

STEVE W.

✓Experienced Mechanic
15,411 POSTS

It is item 4 in the outline image above. Also the attached. The part with the blue ring goes into the intake.

Image (Click to enlarge)

Jan 10, 2019 at 7:49 AM

THEDOCTOR_10

MEMBER
8 POSTS

Thank you. We will be getting the part as soon as we can.

Jan 10, 2019 at 9:39 AM

STRAILER

✓Experienced Mechanic
55,721 POSTS

STEVE W. is one of our best! Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what happens.

Jan 13, 2019 at 3:29 AM

THEDOCTOR_10

MEMBER
8 POSTS

Yes, of course. Thank you! Waiting for payday, haha, but we're hoping this will solve all our problems.
And yes, Steve has been a great help, especially with sharing the images.

Jan 13, 2019 at 11:52 PM

THEDOCTOR_10

MEMBER
8 POSTS

We would like to thank Steve W. and 2carpros for all of your help!! :) We finally were able to replace the part last week and our vehicle is 1,000 times better. We are forever grateful for all of your help.

Feb 7, 2019 at 9:34 AM

STEVE W.

✓Experienced Mechanic
15,411 POSTS

You are most welcome.
Great to hear that you got it taken care of. There are many times that we never hear back if it repaired the problem or not. Feedback always helps, even if it's negative.

Please return anytime with your automotive questions, We're here to help.

Feb 7, 2019 at 7:03 PM

MORGAN8173

MEMBER
71 POSTS

I'm having trouble figuring out if the engine coolant temperature sensor is the same thing as the cylinder head temperature sensor. I've replaced that one in hopes of getting my cooling fans to return to full operating function. I bought a coolant temperature sensor off of Rock Auto that states it's for my year make and model but I can't find this anywhere under my hood at all. Also can you please tel me of 30A 30C 30D which is what of the cooling fan relays so I can work on those if they need to be replaced.

Jul 5, 2021 at 4:44 AM (Merged)

MORGAN8173

MEMBER
71 POSTS

This is the coolant temperature sensor I purchased already:

Image (Click to enlarge)

Jul 5, 2021 at 4:44 AM (Merged)

ASEMASTER6371

✓Experienced Mechanic
52,796 POSTS

Good afternoon,

I attached a picture of the location for you of the sensor.

To test the system, turn the key to the on position and remove the connector from the sensor. The fans should come on full speed.

I attached a wiring diagram for you to view. You will need a test light and voltmeter to do some testing if it does not work.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Roy

Images (Click to enlarge)

Jul 5, 2021 at 4:44 AM (Merged)

MORGAN8173

MEMBER
71 POSTS

Okay,

1) I’m not sure the connector was fully snapped into place.
2) when I unplugged the wiring connector the fans came on full speed instantly.

I also pulled the sensor to visually inspect it and it looks fine, I also blew out the dust in the port where the sensor goes along with the threads of the sensor. I also question the connection it might’ve had as well as it didn’t seem nearly as many turns to unscrew it as it was to put it back in fully with (1) 1/4 turn once fully threaded in. I inspected the wiring pigtail as well and there are some questionable spots but per my inspection I don’t see any breaks in wiring, bends yes so I smooth those out to be best abilities. I reset the error code as well and was gonna allow it to just run for a good 5 minutes get fully warm etc., and see what happens. What do you think I should do? Those maxi fuse 16 and 17 appear to be okay I don’t see any breaks in top portion of the fuse but truthfully those are hard to see.

Jul 5, 2021 at 4:44 AM (Merged)

ASEMASTER6371

✓Experienced Mechanic
52,796 POSTS

Okay, if the fans came on, there is no electrical issue at all. You just checked the entire system by doing that test.

I would replace that sensor and then let it run and see if the fans work correctly.

Roy

Jul 5, 2021 at 4:44 AM (Merged)

MORGAN8173

MEMBER
71 POSTS

Okay, I’ll replace that sensor. Tell me when should the fans be on low and high? The engine isn’t running hot or anything but OMG it’s scald hot under the hood and I know it’s been idle with the hood open running for a good 20 minutes after clearing PCM and going through the relearn and the fans weren’t on.

Jul 5, 2021 at 4:44 AM (Merged)

ASEMASTER6371

✓Experienced Mechanic
52,796 POSTS

Cleared the PCM of what? Were there codes? If there was, I need those codes.

As far as temperature, the normal running is about 195-210 degrees. The low speed fans should come on around 204 and the high speed fan should kick in around 210-212.

Roy

Jul 5, 2021 at 4:44 AM (Merged)

Suggested Repair

Test the EVAP purge solenoid by disconnecting its vapor hose and electrical connector, then start the engine. If vacuum is present at the open port, the valve is stuck open. Replace the solenoid, which bolts to the intake manifold between the large plastic section and the throttle body; unclip the vapor-line quick disconnect, remove the two bolts, and install the new valve in reverse.

Conversation Summary

The owner of a non-hybrid 2011 Ford Escape asked where the coolant temperature sensor was after jerking, high fuel use, occasional shutdowns while driving, high idle, and an intermittent check-engine light. After reviewing the codes, the expert said they pointed more to a stuck-open EVAP purge solenoid than the coolant sensor, and explained that the pictured sensor only feeds the gauge while the PCM uses the cylinder head temperature sensor between the center coils. The owner tested the purge valve and found strong suction, then replaced it and reported the vehicle ran much better. A later commenter asked about cooling-fan operation and whether the coolant and cylinder head temperature sensors were the same; that expert said unplugging the sensor and getting full-speed fans ruled out an electrical fault and recommended replacing the sensor, with low-speed fans expected near 204 degrees and high speed near 210-212.

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2011 Ford Escape Stalls and Jerks

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