Cold starting issue and RPM drop

Hello Kenny,

Since I have replaced the fuel pump 3 or 4 times and based on your analysis, I am going with the fuel injectors and I will be able to replace them in a set on my own. I will let you know how this works out in about a week or so when I receive the injectors and do the repair. Thanks for your advice.

Forgot to mention that when engine is running and in park, RPM's drop about every 1 minute or so from around 725 to 650 and then back up to 725 only to continue to do it again and again. Of course while in drive the RPM's naturally are higher and can't really feel the drops like when it is in park. Also the relay in the driver side kick panel has been replaced along with the one that is in the box next to the battery in front. I had the PCM checked and it is good along with replacing the alternator. Not a whole lot of things left to repair as I am running out of things, lol. I will get back with you most likely this weekend since I was just notified that my new injectors will arrive Thursday.

Hello Kenny,

Kudos to you for leading me in the right direction with your initial analysis. Well, here is the final result: When removing the fuel injectors I noticed that the plastic retainer and O ring separated within the fuel rail. At first I didn’t think too much of it thinking the injector just got hung up with the rail while pulling it out of the rail and of course one or more of the injectors were due to be replaced, who knows? I replaced all the injectors (new) and used a little gear oil to lube the O rings for easier pushing into the rail and intake. While there, I also replaced the plenum gasket and didn’t want to take a chance on the possibility that it might be compromised from the torquing from before so while I was already there I just simply got a new one so I wouldn’t have to deal with it another day. Now you know they say practice makes perfect and I demonstrated that today as I finished the job, turned on the car and it felt a little rough so while checking for any leaks from injectors or fuel pressure damper hose that connects to the fuel rail. I smelled for gas and smelled none but I did notice that I didn’t connect 2 of the injectors under the plenum and now a 4 cylinder car instead of a 6, lol, so what did I do? I removed everything to the point where I could access the plugs for the injectors and connected them, lol. A slight oversight to say the least, lol.

I waited until this morning to see how the car would start from sitting all night and voila! It started right away just like it used to 2 Â yrs ago. Anyway, I put my scanner tool on the car and noticed that the rpm variance is now 688 to 700 in park and holding steady. Ran the car to normal operating temperature and left in park for 30 minutes and there was no drop in RPMs like before. I turned on A/C and RPMs kicked up to 725 and settled in at 700.

Lesson learned, always make sure all injectors are connected, lol, never use remanufactured injectors and never have original injectors refurbished. Waste of time, money and energy. I tried both to save and instead paid more.

Next week I am replacing driver side lower ball joint because the boot is separated and unable to reseat it properly due to my mechanic friend using a fork to separate the joint from the steering knuckle instead of pounding on the knuckle to release it, so just replace it and be done. Also, replacing driver side hub and wheel bearing because 2 weeks ago noise was coming from the passenger side wheel bearing and I took care of that one and no sense just waiting for the other one to wear out too. I am a firm believer to take care of things when 2 of the same items exist.

Thank you very much for your input, it really narrowed down the problem.

My last question, do you think I need to perform a relearn procedure now that all is done?

Here is a picture of my completely restored 1979 Oldsmobile Toronado.

Do you think that I need to do a PCM relearn procedure after all that has been done on the car lsited above?