Codes P0420 and P0430

Your old engine was missing and running poor and these codes show the unfortunate problem that caused. Both of those codes are for catalytic converter low efficiency. AKA, they are not working as they should. The first thing would be to verify that there is not something else wrong first. This code could be caused if the wiring for the front and rear O2's were to get reversed when the swap was done. Simply looking at the live data from the sensors should show if that is the case as the "rear" sensors would be switching fast and the "front" sensors would be steady.
If that is not the case then you could try one of the supposed converter cleaners and see if the issue was just soot or oil that built up from the misfire. I do not place much faith in that and think you might want to run it some and get them heated up and see if the converters burn themselves clean. However, the probable final fix will be to replace the converters on both banks. Not an uncommon issue with a worn engine and misfires as the raw fuel can destroy a converter in a short amount of time.

Hi STILLHOPING26,

P0420 is a fault with bank 1 catalytic converter.
P0430 is a fault with bank 2 catalytic converter.
Check the exhaust system at the exhaust manifold for leakages, which should be distinguishable by louder than normal noise from engine while running at idle and minor acceleration.
Check the exhaust sensors for proper connection of wiring circuits. If this code was present prior to replacing the engine, most probably the catalytic converters or exhaust sensors are faulty.

Unfortunately the way that system works it is very likely that the misfires and poor running of the old engine caused the converters to fail. That is why I suggested looking at the things like wiring and testing the sensors. An exhaust leak could cause this as well, but you should hear that.

The oil would not cause this and I would use the oil in it as a "flush" being it's a used engine. Run it a bit (200 to 300 miles then change it. See what it looks like coming out.

The codes are likely from damage done by the old engine. They mean that the converters are not working properly. If you read through the replies above you will see some recommendations of things to check. However, the way the engine monitors work it most likely did not run the tests on the converters with the old engine running poorly. Then the "new" engine was installed and it ran the tests and shows that the converters are bad. Not an uncommon thing to see after doing this type of repair.

The AC could be a switch, wiring or low or high charge. You say you checked it. What were the pressures with the compressor running and what was the ambient temperature during the test?

What will not work about the picture upload? Here is a test I just did:

Did you ever get the code issue straighten out? Please start a new question for you AC issue.

Please post your new question here

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

Cheers, Ken

That wire that is unhooked goes to the AC clutch. With it disconnected the AC will not function. There should be a connector that plugs into it right in the area.

There really is not a name for it. It is simply the AC clutch circuit. There would be a connector number but it is not a part number or usable to locate a part. Shorts are generally easy to locate. However, it might be easier to simply run a new wire if it has shorted, although I would rather find the problem as it could involve more than one wire shorting out.