Clutch it would not disengage all the time

Ken, thanks for your reply. The trans did not hang while installing it, it went in straight and quickly as a mater of fact. The line up tool worked beautifully in the pilot bearing and the light lube I put on the splines made it go in very easily. It wasn't until I started thinking about it after, that the machine shop said he could turn it ( back in '99), but I would have to replace it the next time the clutch needed replacing. In fact the last time he did it, the flywheel was in better condition than this time and if I had been looking at it as someone else's I would have told them to replace it and not bother trying to save it. I've replaced the clutch, pilot bearing and throw out bearing 4 times over the past 26 years I've owned this truck. Every time it has worked well for many years. I replaced the factory slave cylinder back in '99 because it started leaking brake fluid on the floor and it was getting hard to get it in gear and noticed the fluid was going down in the reservoir. I've ordered a new flywheel and will get it in a few days. I'm going to measure the depth of both of them from the crank face to the surface and see what they are. The spec's say it is 1" thick brand new. I'll let you know what they measure after I take it down again. Thanks for your reply, Craig.

Correction on first entry. THE PILOT BEARING WAS SPITTING OUT THE NEEDLE BEARINGS not the throw out bearing, and the end of the input shaft had a groove in it from the bearings grabbing it.

Ken, thanks for your reply and the pictures of the trans. After seeing the small groove in the end of the input shaft, I got a selection of mini files and worked it to remove and smooth the groove out. I polished it with fine emery cloth and it put a nice finish on it. I put the new pilot bearing on the shaft and it rotates smoothly and has no catch points at all. I also found that there is a front and back side to the pilot bearing. I tried it both ways and found the slightly rounded end allows for it to go onto the tapered end to line it up and the flat end fits tighter to line up and secure the bearings in the cage. As soon as the taper ended and the shaft began, the flat end would not allow any movement for starting it on the shaft but the rounded end would. I've been driving it back and forth to work this week and am getting used to the engagement point on the floor. It releases a little more than 1/2 an inch from the floor and will go into all the gears. Once the new flywheel is delivered and I get time to change it, I'll let you know what the thickness is on the old and new ones are. Thanks for keeping in touch with me on this issue and offering your advice and help, Craig