Clicks and lights, but no crank

Tiny
DBOOYAH93
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 FORD MUSTANG
  • 3.8L
  • V6
  • RWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 114,000 MILES
For two weeks I have worked on my car. My problem started after buying the car and working to replace the old oil in it from the previous owners. When I released the drain plug a spring like coil came out; the bore was stripped. I raised the car up, dropped the sub-frame along with the front suspension and raised the engine a bit as per Ford 1998 mustang mechanics manual. I also removed the starter motor and busted a stud off of the solenoid so I purchased a new solidi and slapped it on. I was not sure exactly where the wires went, but after reading and looking at what I could I attached the negative terminal and starter motor to the lower large stud, attached the positive terminal to the upper large stud and attached the switch to the S terminal (smaller side stud), but the new solenoid did not come with a stud and instead came with a male slide connector (I am not sure of the technical name). I cut and stripped as little amount of wire from the starter that I could muster to add a female connector to the end in place of the circular bolt connector that came with the car. After fastening the motor and finishing with the oil pan and suspension I plugged in the battery and placed the breaks with rotors on before realizing there was smoke coming out from my transmission areas and the top of the starter motor. I disconnected the battery and took the starter out without dropping the sub frame. Once I laid eyes on the solenoid I saw that my new female slide connector had been pulled free from the ignition cable. I am not sure if it happened while pulling the starter out or if it happened during installation and is a result of my ignorance. I stripped a little more insulation from the ignition wire and placed a new connector into the ignition cable. I secured the connector with tape and reattached the battery back to the cables and observed the starter for about forty five minutes without and smoke. I continued with my work and once everything was finished I lowered my car and tried to turn it on. The engine would not crank. There were lights, I could hear the fuel pump priming and other little ticks and clicks that are normally present, but there was zero sound of engine crank. There was a chance my anti theft was causing a problem so I used the key fob to unlock the car, but there was no success. In defeat after two weeks of work I walked away. Tomorrow I will reset the anti theft, try a jump, and try with my foot on the brake. I would like answers soon please as I have run out of almost all my money and need to get back to work soon. Please please please help. O'Riley's is offering me a $110.00 re-manufactured starter motor with solenoid, but I would like to avoid that debt or at the least learn if I wired this properly.
Wednesday, August 30th, 2017 AT 8:18 PM

15 Replies

Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,476 POSTS
Okay, if I am reading this correctly you have the cable that comes from the negative battery terminal attached to the bottom stud on the solenoid?

If so that would be one problem. That ground wire bolts to the engine block or at the base of the solenoid.

The cable connected to the top stud on the solenoid should go to the positive terminal on the battery.

The slip on terminal brings twelve volts from the key switch when you turn the key. That causes the solenoid to activate. Under the two studs is a copper plated disc. It acts as a big switch and sends battery power to the starter motor through the braided line.

The smoke is not a good thing. You will need to determine exactly where it came from as it may have burnt the coating off the wire(s) and could cause much worse problems. Start by fixing the wires on the solenoid. You can test it to see if it still works by using a piece of wire to go between the connector you added and the top terminal. That cuts out the rest of the wiring and the engine should turn over.
You will also want to add some tape or extend that wire enough to add an insulated connector. You do not want it shorting out again.

Find the area where the smoke came from next and come back with that information. We can then look at the wiring and try to determine what the failure could be.
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Wednesday, August 30th, 2017 AT 9:03 PM
Tiny
DBOOYAH93
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Thanks for the quick reply. To address the ground wire. That wire leads directly to the negative terminal on the battery, and you say it should be connected to the engine? Well I am not sure where to do that at, but I will work on it. Just short of dropping my sub frame I can not so easily short my slip connector to the positive terminal in an attempt to start the engine. The motor mounts to the crank with the solenoid on top and all of it is housed inside of the right wheel fender just behind a motor mount. I did add tape to the slip connector it is much more firmly connected now.
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Wednesday, August 30th, 2017 AT 9:17 PM
Tiny
DBOOYAH93
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
I found this schematic and in just about the middle the battery sits, off of it is the negative wire I spoke of. What it leads to is labeled BLK does that mean block?

I am jogging to my car to disconnect the battery. I am sure the starter motor is fried, but I will attempt to repair it. I am not sure where on the block this wire goes, but if it does not matter I will hook it to the closest stud/hole.
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Wednesday, August 30th, 2017 AT 9:42 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,476 POSTS
BLK stands for black wire color. I edited your picture some. The red stud should have the cable that goes to battery positive.

The pink wire and terminal should be the only connection on the bottom stud.

Green comes from the starter relay and past that to the key switch.

If the cable on the pink terminal goes to battery negative, it gets moved to a bolt/stud on the block or something directly attached to the block.

The starter might be okay, that is why I suggest testing it.
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Wednesday, August 30th, 2017 AT 10:04 PM
Tiny
DBOOYAH93
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Okay. So I did some internet sleuthing and have come to the conclusion that my ground cable was the only issue. From what I was reading online I can't use the starter motor to bolt the ground cable on to my engine block. From there all I need is a working starter motor. So tomorrow I will take it apart see if I can fix it and if I cannot I will purchase a new one but at this point I think that my car will be fixed. Thank you for anyone who comes by this if you need help with your 1998 Mustang I am pretty sure I can help, I have done everything you could even think of it this point to the motor and the suspension. I am very pleased and proud of my work.I will update everyone on what happens tomorrow. Thank you and goodnight.
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Wednesday, August 30th, 2017 AT 10:14 PM
Tiny
DBOOYAH93
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Steve, you are my midnight hero. Will test the motor for sure, thank you so much for taking this it with me. I will update you on how this turns it. I just got to my car and disconnected the battery cables, here are some pictures. Pearl has a two inch drop, new rotors, new brackets, new breaks, and new shocks.
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Wednesday, August 30th, 2017 AT 10:19 PM
Tiny
DBOOYAH93
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Steve, you are my midnight hero. I will test the motor for sure, thank you so much for taking this it with me. I will update you on how this turns it. I just got to my car and disconnected the battery cables, here are some pictures. Pearl has a two inch drop, new rotors, new brackets, new breaks, and new shocks.
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Wednesday, August 30th, 2017 AT 10:19 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,648 POSTS
Steve is the man that is for sure! Please use 2CarPros anytime, we are here to help. Tell a friend please.

Cheers, Ken
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Thursday, August 31st, 2017 AT 10:33 AM
Tiny
DBOOYAH93
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Obviously not connected, because I do not have enough hands. I tested the B and S terminal with the negative wire bolted to the engine. They come back with 12.5 volts roughly. I am scared to jump the cables, but I will go do that now, but I think this indicates the motor works.
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Thursday, August 31st, 2017 AT 12:00 PM
Tiny
DBOOYAH93
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I did the wire thing and the motor did nothing. It is still hanging here, but I think that would make a difference.
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Thursday, August 31st, 2017 AT 12:04 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,476 POSTS
The motor will not turn without a ground. Hanging in mid air = no ground. If you have a set of jumper cables pick a color and hook one clamp to the car and one to the ear on the starter. Like the black line. Just be sure it is a clean spot with bare metal on the car end, you can use the ground you bolted on as well, just be sure the clamp is on good.

Replace the nut that was on the blue stud. It transfers power to the starter motor.

Be sure you have battery voltage on the red terminal only. If you have any voltage on the small S wire with the key off you have a problem on that circuit. It should only have power when the key is turned to start. All other times it should be "dead"

Then jump the terminals.

The ground can go there but you have to put the starter in first then the ground can go on that same bolt and ground the block/starter at the same time it holds the starter in.
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Thursday, August 31st, 2017 AT 12:27 PM
Tiny
DBOOYAH93
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
I put a new motor in and I put the negative lead under one of the starter tangs that attach it to the block. Should I move it to the top of the tang? I got my car started and the transmission fluid all filled up. I drove it about one hundred miles today starting and stopping it at appropriate times. There seems to be a lurching while decelerating around sixty mph. I have only had this car a month and two weeks of that was spent on jack stands, I cannot remember if there much was there before, but I am sure it was as that was likely my basis for changing the fluid and filter. I definitely have too much transmission fluid in the tank, I already siphoned some out, but I will need to do more tomorrow. If the lurching at high speeds (higher gears) does not stop, what should I do? I can start a new thread if I need to do so. Thank you for your help so far, is there anything special I should do?
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Thursday, August 31st, 2017 AT 9:29 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,476 POSTS
Ground lead should be fine as long as it is tight.

Start a new question on the transmission, it will get more attention that way.
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Thursday, August 31st, 2017 AT 9:48 PM
Tiny
DBOOYAH93
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
We should mark this resolved. I will do the honors if I may.
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Thursday, August 31st, 2017 AT 10:10 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,648 POSTS
Sure, we do not really have that yet but it will be enabled soon.
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Friday, September 1st, 2017 AT 11:37 AM

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