I try to use OEM parts on vehicles, they cost more but I've rarely had a problem with them, unlike many aftermarket parts from many different places. Both of those codes are circuit codes, IE more than likely a wiring issue rather than a bad sensor itself. I like to look at the freeze frame data that sets during the code to see if there is a common item, like the code sets as the engine gets to operating temperature or it sets while the engine is under a specific load. Especially with a circuit code, as the wiring harness will move as the engine moves in the mounts. Say the freeze frame data for your codes showed that they set under a load of 60 percent or higher or under full throttle. That would indicate it was most likely a bad wire that was moving and either opening or shorting under those conditions, especially when it has been intermittent, usually a sensor fails and stays that way.
I would start by finding the wires to the sensor and following the harness and looking for any damage or questionable spots. I would also test it a bit using the wiggle test, moving the harness around while the engine is running and see if it sets the same codes.
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Saturday, April 11th, 2020 AT 8:27 PM