CKP relearn procedure

Tiny
DCSTONE1958
  • MEMBER
  • 2012 JEEP PATRIOT
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 109,000 MILES
I would like to know the relearn procedure with and without scanner for CKP replacement on my vehicle listed above.
Friday, April 10th, 2020 AT 11:42 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,452 POSTS
Hello, There is no relearn procedure for the cam crank relearn that doesn't require a scan tool. It is the only way to reset the value stored in the PCM to enable it to learn the positions of the cam and crank.
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Friday, April 10th, 2020 AT 11:55 PM
Tiny
DCSTONE1958
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
If I have read correctly, it is okay to drive your car after the replacement of the CKP sensor and before the relearn. It is important to do the relearn so any misfires and data can be collected and reported with proper code. If my car has problems can I temporarily unplug the sensor and run the car to get it to my friend's garage where we can replace the CKP sensor?
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Saturday, April 11th, 2020 AT 8:04 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,452 POSTS
It needs the crank sensor to run, unplugging it will stop it from running at all. Do you have a check engine light or other reason to suspect it is failing? If it is still running okay then it's doubtful the sensor is the problem. If you have a code post it and we can start with that.
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Saturday, April 11th, 2020 AT 8:29 AM
Tiny
DCSTONE1958
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
The car starts and runs fine until It does an intermittent stall. It gave the codes PO339 and PO335. The check engine light came on and I had the codes read. The light goes off on its own (it was not reset) and is currently off. Someone on your site mentioned problems with aftermarket CKP sensors. I bought one from AutoZone. Brand was Duralast SU8488. Are these good sensors or is there a better one?
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Saturday, April 11th, 2020 AT 8:47 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,452 POSTS
I try to use OEM parts on vehicles, they cost more but I've rarely had a problem with them, unlike many aftermarket parts from many different places. Both of those codes are circuit codes, IE more than likely a wiring issue rather than a bad sensor itself. I like to look at the freeze frame data that sets during the code to see if there is a common item, like the code sets as the engine gets to operating temperature or it sets while the engine is under a specific load. Especially with a circuit code, as the wiring harness will move as the engine moves in the mounts. Say the freeze frame data for your codes showed that they set under a load of 60 percent or higher or under full throttle. That would indicate it was most likely a bad wire that was moving and either opening or shorting under those conditions, especially when it has been intermittent, usually a sensor fails and stays that way.
I would start by finding the wires to the sensor and following the harness and looking for any damage or questionable spots. I would also test it a bit using the wiggle test, moving the harness around while the engine is running and see if it sets the same codes.
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Saturday, April 11th, 2020 AT 8:27 PM

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