Shut off while driving will not start

No pictures?

The Medic

As you can see, 'splaining wires positions is a hard task to do.

I may have you draw a diagram or I will make you a drawing and you connect the "dots" with wires and where they go.

I'll jump on that soon!

I came across this. (Picture 1)

The Medic

OK- Magic with the pics? 1st there were none. Then there was 1, now a whole bunch!

Go to your Jeep, touch the "Jeep" emblem at the door way and say "Abracadabra you are now healed". Let me know how that works out!

The Medic

I see what the mysterious block is now with the magical pictures, I thought it was a resistor. It is merely a mechanical butt splice. They need to be taped up (re-taped up) to prevent them from touching something and shorting or grounding out.

The Medic

Can you send me a link or part number for your coil and where it came from?

I may be on to something. If the original wiring had been kept and the add-on goodies had just been popped into place this could of maybe been easier to follow!

It's a challenge, but you are definitely a big help in explaining it!

Thank goodness you are the only CJ in my garage right now, seems I won't see one for 4 months, then 4 of them will hit me at once!

The Medic

I take it that it will not run now with the new module?

If no runnage, think you could warranty that one back?

If so, do not hook the next one in until I show you the next plan.

The Medic

Get one of these.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/standard-ignition-5753/lighting---electrical-16777/ballast-resistor-12489/50f244faac31/standard-ignition-2-terminal-ballast-resistor/ru37/5817019?q=ballast+resistor&pos=11

Notice on the backside view that the cavity is sealed that contains the spring-like resistor coil, I have found these kinds last longer, I don't know if it's because the coil doesn't get dirty or the springy part does not bounce around.

We want this puppy to run well.

I'm sure it did so prior to someone "thinking" it could run like a dragster or a F-16 by listening to other folks about some funky modifications.

The distributor modification did what? I have never seen the stock distributor cap cross fire being used on the street.

The plugs fire just fine with a normal stock distributor, coil, and stock plugs.

So,

Let's get one of these too!

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/masterpro-ignition-4513/ignition---tune-up-16776/ignition-coils-19690/ignition-coil-12493/90c5da72ae86/masterpro-ignition-ignition-coil/25190/4598800/1979/jeep/cj7?q=coil&pos=4

Again, Let's wait until we get everything and I show you how to configure this stuff. Maybe as a "test" at 1st, then permanently after it's proven. I suspect the module can't handle what's going on now.

Wanna make a good modification/ improvement?

Jetting/ tweaking the carburetor is the best improvement possible!

I can guide you with this too. After we get this running again.

The Medic

I done a bunch of researching of that coil.

It will work with a 1.8 OHM ballast resistor.

Seems few places that have ballast resistors do not boast on what the resistance rating is.

I finally found this one:

https://www.autozone.com/ignition/ballast-resistor/duralast-ballast-resistor/116673_0_0

You can also take your voltmeter with you and maybe find one with right 1.8 resistance.

Many times the online (and local parts) stores want you to give the application. This would maybe work if the wiring was not changed.

Yours is now in the twilight zone, everything for your ignition is special and not OE. It's best to get a zip-lock bag and tear the labels from the boxes and stick them in the bag. In the future you will be able to produce a part number for what you need.

Example of mine

I have a '77 CJ-5, originally it had a "Prestolite Ignition System". The '77 did not have a resistance wire, and had many quirks and problems with the Prestolite.

I opted to change the ignition to be "Motorcraft" exactly like '79, '80, '81.

I needed resistance (I did not install a resistance wire) I used a ballast resistor, I got a reman distributor for $50, a coil for a '79, new plug wires, and several working ignition modules from an auto salvage yard (maybe $10 for 3) and I poured through the Ford vehicles until I found the correct connectors for the module and distributor. The wires on them were various lengths and had to be spliced to be correct for my application (those wires and connectors were freebies!)

Now if I need something from a parts store for the ignition I tell them I have a '79 w/ a 258 (not a '77) The only thing that is not '79 and is kind of "oddball" is the ballast resistor.

Let me know when you are ready to proceed.

The Medic

Distributor should be fine.

See you tomorrow!

The Medic

What plug was pulled?

Bear with me, I'm on the ole trusty laptop for a while.

The Medic