1998 Chrysler Town and Country Intermittant Ignition short/

Tiny
RUBANTIN
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 240,000 MILES
About 3 weeks ago our van started shutting off while driving. It would usually do it for about a half a second. The speedometer and tach would go to zero and then resume when the problem was over. Now it has come to a point where it will shut down for several seconds and even a minute or two. During this period the starter does not work until I hear a relay "click" and then it will start for a few seconds.

If I leave the ignition on when the engine is off, the relays in the fuse block will start clicking, sometimes frantically. When I try to start during one of these, the car the starter engages and disengages rapidly as well.

The headlights and dash lights are unaffected by any of this.

I could upload a video to you tube if needed.
Sunday, May 31st, 2009 AT 9:14 AM

12 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi rubantin,

Thank you for the donation.

Symptoms described could be due to a bad ignition switch or power supply. Are the dash lights flickering when the relays are clicking?

Does the AC/heater blower work at this juncture?
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Monday, June 1st, 2009 AT 2:12 PM
Tiny
RUBANTIN
  • MEMBER
  • 36 POSTS
The blower is unaffected and the dash light don't blink. However, the warning lights come on and off including the check engine light. When the relays are all clicking (engine is off) the radiator fan goes on and off as well.
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Monday, June 1st, 2009 AT 4:08 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
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A main power supply is intermittent due to bad contnuity. This is causing the relays to click when power supply is on and off.

Check the Power Distribution Center main fuses and wire connections from battery.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_LeftEngineComp98ChryslerTown_1.jpg



The ignition switch contacts could be failing causing the problem as well. You would have to test the continuity. If problem happens only after some driving, check if the switch heated up at rear end. If it is hot, then the switch is failing.
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Tuesday, June 2nd, 2009 AT 12:53 PM
Tiny
RUBANTIN
  • MEMBER
  • 36 POSTS
May have been misunderstood. When ignition is off nothing happens at all. When the ignition is on and engine is not running is when all the clicking happens.
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Tuesday, June 2nd, 2009 AT 12:56 PM
Tiny
RUBANTIN
  • MEMBER
  • 36 POSTS
I have an ohmmeter. Where would I test the continuity of the switch.
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Tuesday, June 2nd, 2009 AT 1:14 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
To test continuity of switch you would have to remove it. Since this is an intermittent problem, continuity might be available and you should pay attention to the resistance readings.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_IgnitionC1Switch98ChryslerTownRemove_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_LockCylinder98ChryslerTownFig06_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_LockCylinder98ChryslerTownFig07_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_IgnitionC1Switch98ChryslerTown_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_IgnitionC3Switch98ChryslerTown_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_IgnitionC1Switch98ChryslerTown01_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_IgnitionC1Switch98ChryslerTown02_1.jpg

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Tuesday, June 2nd, 2009 AT 1:43 PM
Tiny
RUBANTIN
  • MEMBER
  • 36 POSTS
Will check tomorrow morning.

If the blower and dash lights are unaffected by the problem and the engine and starter are, where should I concentrate my efforts?

OK. Here is another clue. I sat and really studied out the timimg of this thing with my wife. With the ignition on and engine off, the "relay clicking" thing happens, it causes the rediator fan to turn on and the starter to quit working. So whatever stops the engine and starter also turns on the radiator fan during that click.
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Tuesday, June 2nd, 2009 AT 3:43 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
I would suggest starting with the Power distribution center and Power Control Module. Check for loose wire connectins and bad grounds.

Does not seem to be a faulty ignition switch.
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Wednesday, June 3rd, 2009 AT 11:30 AM
Tiny
RUBANTIN
  • MEMBER
  • 36 POSTS
I know where these are. But how and what do I check on them. Location needed of any connections.
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Wednesday, June 3rd, 2009 AT 11:40 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Unplug the PCM wires and check for contaminations, looseness etc.

Check PDC fuses and wire connections for signs of overheating or bad/loose installation.

Test fuses for continuity and resistance.

Check for bad grounds. Remove and clean them before reinstalling.
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Wednesday, June 3rd, 2009 AT 12:27 PM
Tiny
RUBANTIN
  • MEMBER
  • 36 POSTS
Thanks. That was it. Got a new PCM and it runs great! ;)

Thanks
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Thursday, June 11th, 2009 AT 5:57 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
You are welcomed.

Glad to be of service.

Thank you for using 2CarPros.
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Friday, June 12th, 2009 AT 9:23 AM

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