Randomly shuts off

Tiny
KROB59
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 CHRYSLER 300
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 57,000 MILES
I had asked this question before and donated (User ID 394016) and you answered however, I was never able to respond at the time. Problem was car shuts off while running - can happen waiting for a light or just driving on road. You had asked if I had the computer checked for trouble codes and it was and there weren't any trouble codes. What do you think?
Saturday, September 12th, 2009 AT 5:56 PM

25 Replies

Tiny
JHEILI99
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Hi.I had the same problem. Car would drive jerky, would hesitate at low speeds and eventually shut off for no reason and without any error code stored while stopping or trying a slow turn, vehicle would also have significant increase in fuel consumption. Stealer made me pay for software update, replace ignition switch, throttle service etc.

Expect the following to happen soon: car eventually shuts off again but pretty soon you'll see finally an error code P0406 (EGR Valve high output ) and your check engline light will come on ( it will turn-off again after 4x starting car, but error code will still be stored) in simple words: your EGR Valve soon says bye-bye. But: for as long as EGR valve doesn't go completely, it won't store an error code. And there's a TSB by Chrysler about it. Pretty simple and relatively cheap item to fix.I went back to my stealer and told them, after all I paid for, they either replace the valve at their expense or refund me all the wasted money which didn't fix the problem. So if you got the same problem, it's most likely not an electric issue, it's almost guaranteed your EGR valve.

But: if the car shuts-off completely ( that includes dashboard, radio etc. Then it's going to be your ignition switch relay. Also a known defect hidden by Chrysler in a TSB.

In regards to sunroof: again Chrysler doesn't admit their mistake, but the 300 is known for failing sunroof and rear windows. Again: this is not an electrical issue or a faulty switch. It's a software glitch which has not been addressed by Chrysler and hard to fix
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Monday, September 14th, 2009 AT 8:30 PM
Tiny
MKP2477
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I have a 2006 300c with 190,000 miles. Was having all of the issues stated above. Mine stall, jerk and cut off while driving. Read lots of comments and ended up doing 3 things.

1. Replaced (1) vt solenoid and had the other 3 cleaned.
2. Changed the spark plugs back to OEM Champion.
3. Cleaned throttle body.

So far so good. If I have anymore issues, I'll come back here if not it means all is well.
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Monday, May 18th, 2020 AT 11:07 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,635 POSTS
Excellent addition to this thread! Please feel free to use 2CarPros anytime!
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Tuesday, May 19th, 2020 AT 10:01 AM
Tiny
KROB59
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2006 CHRYSLER 300
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 54,000 MILES
Engine shuts down sometimes when waiting for a light or won't start after driving for awhile. Had a previous problem with sun roof which leaked and mechanic thinks it could be an electrical problem caused by water that's causing engine to shut down but I had the problem before with engine running hot. Could the engine shut down because it's running too hot? Changed the thermostat but no help. What can I do about this? Is this a problem endemic to this model?
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Tuesday, May 19th, 2020 AT 10:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Hi
Have you had computer checked for Trouble codes? Does check engine light come on? Has this just started or been a problem for awhile?
Let me know
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Tuesday, May 19th, 2020 AT 10:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
426MAN
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
  • 2006 CHRYSLER 300
  • 80,000 MILES
Car began stalling after WOTs when going to stop, once it did in nuetral when revving fast.
Now the car stalls once I shift it to D/R it idles fine in P/N.
Rpm struggles when in gear for a second or 2 & dies.
I can rev it up in d/r & keep it running but as soon as I left the throttle it dies
- Checked fuel pressure its fine at 58 psi
- Checked the TCC solenoid by jacking on the car up & still dies.

What can I do to fix this?
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Tuesday, May 19th, 2020 AT 10:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Try cleaning the throttle plate and iac valve with choke cleaer, they get gummy and do that
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Tuesday, May 19th, 2020 AT 10:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FIXITMR
  • MECHANIC
  • 9,990 POSTS
Always been this way? Have you checked for vacuum leaks?
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Tuesday, May 19th, 2020 AT 10:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
426MAN
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
No vacuum leak, now I cant shift to gear without it stalling, about the IAC if it has a problem would my idle be really stable while on P/N?
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Tuesday, May 19th, 2020 AT 10:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
It could as there is no load on the engine. But if it's bad it should set a code. That 's why you clean them with choke cleaner to get all the gummy crap off of them from oil coiming into the engine before it. It makes the plate and iac stick and engine die when you come to a stop
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Tuesday, May 19th, 2020 AT 10:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
426MAN
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
I did lower the idle it worked fine but with a little struggle did a log to check the base spark is around (18 in P/N - 14 in D/R) now the car runs but when switchinh to R/D it struggle a little.
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Tuesday, May 19th, 2020 AT 10:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BILLRUZ
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2006 CHRYSLER 300
  • 5.7L
  • V8
  • RWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 260,000 MILES
Vehicle stalls at idle, on highway all speeds, stop lights. Will restart most times.
Both fuel pumps replaced, gas tank replaced by Chrysler, new battery, new computer, all grounds checked, all fuses replaced. Check engine light comes on once in a while but not regular. (Lost communication code). I have had it to several mechanics and no fix yet. Motor was replaced at 175,000 miles by Chrysler.
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Tuesday, May 19th, 2020 AT 10:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
426MAN
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
I took a drive, switched gears many times, Idle struggles some times from D to R & vice versa but returns to be stable. Gonna clean them up & test the car after WOT.

So would a high rpm cause a car to stall in gear?
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Tuesday, May 19th, 2020 AT 10:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,873 POSTS
For my clarity, are you saying the engine will stop running while you are driving at highway speed? If it only stalls at low speeds, when it should idling, there is an easy fix for that. If it does indeed stall at higher speeds, there should be a diagnostic fault code related to that. It is important to not disconnect the battery before reading the codes, because doing so will erase them, then that valuable information will be lost.
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Tuesday, May 19th, 2020 AT 10:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
426MAN
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
Same problem happend again after WOT when comming to stop. Now my car stalls the same !
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Tuesday, May 19th, 2020 AT 10:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BILLRUZ
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
It will stall/cut out at all speeds. Sometimes it will run twenty to thirty miles and have no issue. Other times it will stall out idle long in the driveway. It does this randomly.
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Tuesday, May 19th, 2020 AT 10:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Ok I think I know the problem, i'd bet this car has one of the "bully Dog" type pcm modifiers on it as well as the K&N style air cleaners. Because you can't adjust an idle otherwise unless some type of thing like this as the pcm controls the idle. What you probably have doen is oiled up the filter to much and it's screwed up the MAF sensor. Try cleaning that off with choke cleaner and see if it helps. If not then take it to a pro who can physically look at this where he can actually scan this and see if anything comes up either code wise or freeze frame.
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Tuesday, May 19th, 2020 AT 10:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BILLRUZ
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
It does not give codes all the time, it cuts out or stalls. Very rarely it gives codes. Two codes were lost communication. Lost communication to transmission.
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Tuesday, May 19th, 2020 AT 10:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
426MAN
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
Its tuned by a diablo predator I can adjust the idle & I did, it worked good but once I went wot it stalled back again, yes I have a CAI on the car its new with 2500 km on it & didn't oil it.
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Tuesday, May 19th, 2020 AT 10:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,873 POSTS
With no fault codes to point to the circuit that needs to be diagnosed, you need a scanner with "record" capability so you can record a snapshot of what is occurring during a test-drive, when the problem acts up. Because the data passes through the scanner's memory, the recording actually starts a few seconds before the "record" button is pressed. That data can be played back slowly, later, to see what changed.

On older vehicles the crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor were the common causes of this. They are still good suspects, but it is odd there has never been a fault code set related to them.
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Tuesday, May 19th, 2020 AT 10:02 AM (Merged)

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