Engine Stalls

Tiny
RJACK144
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 CHRYSLER 300
Engine Performance problem 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 95000 miles

My car has started going dead, it may go dead driving down the road or sitting at a red light. It has happen 4 times in the last 2 months, It makes no sound or runs rough it just goes dead. Will wait for 5 to 10 minutes and the car will start and run great again until the next time it quits may be a month or a week or a few days.

Car has been in shop twice and no codes show on computer, only light on dash when car goes dead is a low oil pressure, believe that would be normal. Will try carb/cleaner and check spark next time it goes down.
Friday, September 5th, 2008 AT 8:56 AM

20 Replies

Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Hi rjack

This could be a tough one but I'll give it a shot. Does the check engine light ever come on?

This guide will help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

If no light then it will be necessary to determine if it is fuel or ignition related.

So when it conks out pull a plug wire hold next to block crank is there spark? If spark then pull air snorkel off spray carb cleaner if it starts then fuel problem. Your other option is take it in and have the computer scanned to see if a sensor or some component is out of range.

Let me know
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Friday, September 5th, 2008 AT 9:35 AM
Tiny
NICKELSLAURA
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1999 CHRYSLER 300
My chrysler 300 m keeps dieing out while driving. It dies out while going any speed. I had a mechanic put on machine and he cant find anything wrong. I have stopped driving it because I have almost been in 3 accidents while going 45 miles per hour and it stops running. The battery is fine and I dont lose electric but the engine dies. When it dies the cruise control light comes on the dash and I never use cruise. What is wrong with it?
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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 1:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,700 POSTS
Hi:
Have the fuel pump pressure tested. If you want to do it yourself, watch this how to video.

https://www.2carpros.com/dia/test_fuel_pressure.htm

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 1:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GENEVAJAMES
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
  • 1999 CHRYSLER 300
  • 172,000 MILES
I have a code reader that says po340. So, I have changed cam and crank sensors. Still, the engine will not start and I have no headlights. Also, I removed the large ground wire, the one with 4 leads, which was greasy, and cleaned that. Thank you very much for any help.
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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 1:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Did you check the fuses?

When engine could not be started, you need to check what is missing and continue from there. The link below explains how to go about.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start
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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 1:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GENEVAJAMES
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Hi KHLow2008, Yes, I have checked both fuse panels repeatedly. Have even swapped the ACD relay fuse with the other identical one. But, same result.
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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 1:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Did you test for sparks, fuel pressure etc?

Sometimes the crank or crank code would be triggerred after excessive cranking time if the engine could not be started.

Check out the link I provided.
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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 1:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GENEVAJAMES
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Thank you. No I have not checked for sparks or f. Pressure. I will check your link. Thank you again.
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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 1:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GENEVAJAMES
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
  • 1999 CHRYSLER 300
  • 172,000 MILES
Code reader says po340. I have replaced both cam and crank sensor. Engine will not start. Also, headlights are not on. I did remove the large ground wire, the one with 4 leads, and cleaned that. Have also checked and re-checked both fuse panels. I can hear the humm of the fuel pump when I turn the key. Thank you very much for any help.

By the way, when I try to donate, a screen pops up that your site is not using a trusted certificate. Says that someone is tampering with the connection. Should I mail a donation?

Thanks again. James
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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 1:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
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The site uses secure payments so I don't understand why this is happening. I will let the admin know abioout this. Thank you for the heads on.

Please refer to your previous post for the answer to your question.
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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 1:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Let me know how it goes.
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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 1:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
THIS IS MIKE
  • MECHANIC
  • 686 POSTS
Hi James, all of our transactions are through secured servers.
Thank you for considering us for a donation. We will check out the certificate problem. If you prefer mailing your donation our mailing address is:
2CarPros
3920 Prospect Ave, Suite A
Yorba Linda, CA 92886
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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 1:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GENEVAJAMES
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
The links/videos are great, but, I think if I can source the headlight issue, I will find the engine issue. I remembered also, that I had a coolant leak in the middle of the front of the engine. I guess another water pump is in order. After I get it running of course. Radiator was new 12 months ago. Starter is new 2 months ago. Water pump 24 months. Thank you again.
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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 1:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GENEVAJAMES
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Um, I mis-stated the starter thing. The battery was new 2 months ago. My bad.
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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 1:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BOBBY22
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1999 CHRYSLER 300
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 87,000 MILES
Changed the battery today 1000 cca, alarm went off briefly, then when you start the car, it runs for 7 or 8 seconds and then shuts off, if you start it again, it runs for 7 or 8 seconds and the shuts off, you can hear the fuel pump go on, etc, for the few seconds the car runs, if you touch the gas, it will die quickly, it ran fine before the battery change, now this, when it is running for those few seconds, it runs normal, no rufness or anything
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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 1:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,749 POSTS
Bobby is your theft light flashing on the dash? Im going to look up system and will return in a few minutes
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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 1:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,749 POSTS
Do you have a mobil speed pass on the key ring? Try removing everything from key ring except ignition key and make sure its the key you always use. Then try it
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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 1:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,749 POSTS
Also try unlocking door with the key in the door. And also unlock pass side door with thekey.
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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 1:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOSEPHDENNIS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • CHRYSLER 300
I can stop the stalls, I just have to keep my rpm gauge up and not let it drop to 0, I learned to deal with it for a while till I could get money to fix it, but then my car started shaking very rough. I spent 250 to get a fuel injector flush and after a day of smooth running, the problem came back worse. I got all the usual tune ups done, and the problem persists. I read online that it might be the egr valve and when I asked the mechanics to fix it, they said it was fine. They said they need the computer code to come on before they can figure out how to fix it but I need the car to be running soon and can't seem to force the check engine light to come back on, what can I do to get some results faster.
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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 1:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
What kind of vehicle are we dealing here with?

I got all the usual tune ups done, what is it? Rough idle could be caused by anything: engine defects/IACV/PCV/EGR/ Incorrect fuel pressure.

Faster results, you could do a fuel pressure check with and without the pressure regulator and comeback with your readings and we'll go to the next phase.
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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 1:03 PM (Merged)

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