No heat?

Tiny
EAGLEMAN12
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Could you please tell me where the bleeder screws are?
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Monday, January 6th, 2020 AT 11:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JOHNNYT73
  • MECHANIC
  • 924 POSTS
If you have an engine cover go ahead and remove it (may need to remove the oil cap and tube). Somewhere along the top/front of the engine you will see some 8mm screws that screw into a 10mm screw. You loosen only the 8mm head (if possible. Sometimes you have to loosen the 10mm if the 8mm is stuck). I will attach a photo of what they look like.
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Monday, January 6th, 2020 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RICHARDLEE R. FRANCO
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2006 CHEVROLET UPLANDER
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,231 MILES
06 chevy uplander frt heater dont work back does
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Monday, January 6th, 2020 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Check and test the frt blower fuse, blower switch and blower motor relay
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Monday, January 6th, 2020 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
The front blower motor doesn't work? Check applicable fuses, underhood fuse box. A couple of front blower fuses and hvac fuse. Use a voltage tester on the fuse circuit, check for voltage. One is hot all the time, other two may go hot with the key on.
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Monday, January 6th, 2020 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JOSHRHOADS1112
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2005 CHEVROLET UPLANDER
  • 3.5L
  • 6 CYL
  • AWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 170,000 MILES
Auxiliary heater in rear blows cold. Flushed auxiliary heater and coolant flows freely through it. Heat in front works fine. Need guidance on if there is a valve the prevents heat from going to the rear that may not be opening.
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Monday, January 6th, 2020 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Check blend door actuator also pull fuse for that for 60 seconds then reinstall it may reset. If you have to replace this you need to remove the either left or right rear quarter trim panel
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Monday, January 6th, 2020 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
THE KIDD
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 2005 CHEVROLET UPLANDER
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 40,000 MILES
We have a 2005 uplander with hot air heater problems. Start the vehicle for the 2nd time. No hot air, vent selector switch working(set on hot), blower motor switch is working, engine temp good, coolant good, fuse good. When changing functions we could here the switching. Played wtih fan switch and heater switch. Turn van off. Restart play with switches again. All of sudden heat enters the cabin. Happens every 3rd or 4th time the vehicle is used. Taken to dealership. Everything checked out electrically when the heater is operating normally. They suggested replacign the thermostat. Issue did not go away. This can be an expensive endaveour to route casue the issue. I am in contact with the electrical engineer from GM on the program. I post what he finds out regaqrding this issue.

Found the solutuion to the problem. There is a software issue with HVAC module may be exhibiting "Temperature Door Drift". The result of the investigation was a new release of software for service into GM SPO.

Problem statement: GM 2005-2006 Minivan vehicles while operating in full cold mode, the discharge temperature of the supply air stream is not sufficiently cold enough. The rear air stream was operating at design capacity, and blower speed did not affect the overall temperature of the discharged air. As a result of testing it was found that the temperature door within the front HVAC module was exhibiting a “float” condition, where full cold operation was not being achieved.

Drive Complete: When a singular drive (damper actuator) completes, there is a check sequence built into the logic of the control head that looks for any overshoot from the target destination. If there is an overshoot condition, the software will update the current position as the original target position, therefore avoiding and “hunting” by the damper.

These two logic paths (executed within the control head software) operate at different rates. The target update task is executed and checked at a rate of 20ms, while the drive complete task occurs every 100ms.

Root Cause: “Any time the temp knob is turned, there is a chance that an intermediate value can be read and acted on.”
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Monday, January 6th, 2020 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVEMAN2000
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I'm also having a problem with my front heater. The heater seems to be cycling in the outside air when the revs go below 2000rpm. If I'm parked, and rev the engine, I can hear the flap close and I get warm air again. This has become an issue since the outside temp yesterday was -35. By the way, the chevy uplander is an excellent cold starter.

The manual says that the outside air shouldn't cycle if the temp is below +32.

So, can you tell if your uplander is cycling air from the outside or inside?

This guide can help as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-heater-not-working

Let me know
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Monday, January 6th, 2020 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SLIGHTZ
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I had this problem the guide shows me the coolant was low because the radiator was leaking.
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Monday, January 6th, 2020 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DUMMKOPF352
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
  • 2005 CHEVROLET UPLANDER
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 35,000 MILES
My sister's car. Antifreeze looks decent, blower motor works, but no heat. Problem may have developed suddenly or over 2.3 weeks gradually, not sure. Acts like plugged heater core or valve in coolant line not opening. Are heater hoses easy to touch, to feel temperature? If so, where? Anything else to be checked? Is valve electric or vacuum actuated? My sister has bad arthritis and must rely on others.
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Monday, January 6th, 2020 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
With the engine at full operating temp, locate the 2 heater hoses where they go into the firewall and feel them to see if they are both hot to the touch. If not too hot to hold, then you have to look at the actual engine temp and if that is up, if it is, then your looking at a restricted heater core.
If you find that they are both too hot to hold, then the heat in that vehicle is controlled by a blend door that regulates heated air flow. It is operated by an electric motor/actuator. The problem can be that the actuator is stripped or inoperative or the door itself could be damaged. This is what needs to be determined by examining the actuator and see if it is responding to heat change commands or not.
If they are both not too hot to hold on to, then you either have a restricted heater core or the system is not completely full and getting air pockets for some reason.
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Monday, January 6th, 2020 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DUMMKOPF352
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
Thanks, very helpful. Hoses near firewall feel about same temp as upper radiator hose. Owners pamphlet says one fuse block (of 2) is on passenger side under instrument panel. Cannot find looking under glove compartment. Ditto on RH side above accel pedal. Is the "instrument panel" something other than the dashboard?
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Monday, January 6th, 2020 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
No, instrument panel and dash are the same thing. It sounds like you're having a problem with the blend door operation.
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Monday, January 6th, 2020 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SURFCITY
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
The 1st fuse box is on the very end of the passenger side instrument panel, you have to fully open the door to get at it. The 2nd is under the hood on the passneger side in the black bos that has the jumper peg sticking out.
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Monday, January 6th, 2020 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DUMMKOPF352
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
Thanks. The 1st sounds like the way Generous Motors located a fusebox on my Chev 2002 Silverado 2500HD (except maybe for right vs left). Appreciate your help!
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Monday, January 6th, 2020 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JOHN14701
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2005 CHEVROLET UPLANDER
  • 3.3L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,000 MILES
Steam was coming out under hood. I took it to a repair shop. They applied pressure to find leak. They cut off part of hose that was damaged then reapplied the hose. On my way home temperature went all the way to hot then computer said hot going to air condition mode( I think, I was driving). It was blowing and is now blowing cold air when it supposed to blow warm air. Do you think maybe mechanic didn't put enough fluid back in?
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Monday, January 6th, 2020 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Probably check your coolant level
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Monday, January 6th, 2020 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JOHN14701
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Thank You!
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Monday, January 6th, 2020 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2CP-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 4,540 POSTS
  • 2007 CHEVROLET UPLANDER
  • 130,000 MILES
My heater wont work air is fine someone told me could b actuator heat blows just wont heat up but van runs normal as far as temp. What could I do fix this
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Friday, July 10th, 2020 AT 10:52 AM (Merged)

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