1995 Chevy Blazer No Start

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RUSSELL.THOLE
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  • 2 POSTS
We have read other comments on this website about problems w/blazers not starting. But the problems listed do not take care of this problem.
We have a '95 Chevy Blazer/4.3 ltr/center port injection/120k (approx) miles.

Summer 2006 rebuilt heads/replaced all gaskets/replaced fuel injector system/replaced knox sensors/replaced oxygen sensors/replaced distributor cap & rotor/replaced plugs/replaced water pump/replaced fuel filter/ replaced tempature sensor/all terminal wires to sensors seem to be clean and reinstalled and checked ok/all ground wires are attached to the back of the heads.

A starting problem developed a few months after all of this repair work and has continuely gotten worse until it won't start at all.

A week ago replaced radiator and 3 days later truck won't start at all.

As the starting problem was beginning to happen we would have to put the key in the ignition turn the key and wait for the fuel pump to stop and then crank it to start. Sometimes it would take approximately 3 - 4 tries before it would start for the first time then after that it would usually start unless it sat for a long time before starting again (as in over night or after 8 hours). This was not something that happened continuoulsy, sometime it would just start right up w/o hesitation. Problem seems to have worsen w/colder weather, and now it won't start at all.
After reading the other entries on this same problem everytime it was said it could be the fuel pump &/or fuel filter. We have tested the fuel pressure, and it is 54 - 56 psi every time, we have checked the fire on the engine/the coil fires & the plugs fire but it still won't start. Air filter is good/all emissions have been electrically tested and work. We are wondering if the power train control module as well as the anti theft system could have anything to do w/this problem. We purchased this vehicle in Dec 2004 and replaced the factory radio w/a stereo & cd changer prior to knowing anything about a anti-theft system and truck had been running perfectly fine until the cracked head problem. We have not replaced plug wires because the plugs fire and when running was getting good gas mileage.

Any suggestions to this problem would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
Russ & Lisa
Jan 23, 2007 at 1:59 PM
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MATHIASO
  • ✓Experienced Mechanic
  • 1,209 POSTS
Did you check your cranking motor?
Jan 27, 2007 at 1:39 AM
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RUSSELL.THOLE
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the truck eventually will turn over and run so i am not sure why the cranking motor would be in question can you please explain?

thanks
Jan 28, 2007 at 2:21 AM
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MATHIASO
  • ✓Experienced Mechanic
  • 1,209 POSTS
if the engine is difficult to start, it may have an ignition problem that causes hard starting and will usually cause a performance problem once the engine start, such as hesitation before engine start to run little better...
Look I can't pinpoint at what is exactelly wrong here but I can tell you to check for the following conditions:
defective high tension wire ,crack distributor cap carbon tracks in rotor,retarted ignition timing, lose connections in primary circuit.
let me know after you check them.
Jan 29, 2007 at 2:11 AM
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M1GARAND
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I just fought with this same problem. A couple of things, you said the fuel pressure was 54-56 PSI. Is that with the engine is running? It needs to be 60 PSI and holding after the fuel pump relay cuts out. That was my problem, the fuel pressure would then drop to 0, and no start, especially when cold or sitting for several hours. I was able to start my truck using starter fluid every time. Once it was running I had enough fuel pressure (barely) to keep it going. The problem turned out to be a device called a pulse dampener or pulsator. It goes between the fuel pump and the outlet pipe on the sending unit.....and here's the crappy part.....inside the fuel tank. The entire fuel tank has to come off the truck to get at it. Replace the pulse dampener with a short piece of high pressure fuel line and a couple of clamps, and chuck that other thing in the trash. I had to drop my fuel tank 3 times, and 2 fuel pumps to figure that out. Good Luck!
Feb 12, 2007 at 6:06 AM

Suggested Repair

Confirm fuel pressure stays near 60 psi after the pump relay shuts off; if it bleeds down, inspect the in-tank pulse dampener and replace it with high-pressure fuel line and clamps if faulty. Also check plug wires, distributor cap and rotor for cracks or carbon tracking, ignition timing, and primary-circuit connections.

Conversation Summary

A 1995 Chevrolet Blazer 4.3L with central port injection cranks but will not start, especially after sitting or in cold weather. The owners report about 54-56 psi fuel pressure, spark at the coil and plugs, and many recent repairs. One reply suggested checking the starter and ignition components such as wires, cap, rotor, timing, and primary connections. Another owner with the same symptom found pressure dropping to zero after the pump shut off and fixed a failed in-tank pulse dampener.

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