Engine will not Idle?

A vacuum will cause this these guides can help us fix it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

Please run down this guide and report back.

My problem is this:
My car seemed to be running and driving fine when I left work yesterday, got it on the highway home and still all was good. As I took the exit off the hwy and came to a red light, I put the brakes on and the car shook and died. I put it in park, started it but as soon as I put it in drive it stalled again. It runs fine in park, reverse and neutral but stalls immediately when engaged in drive, first or second. I even tried having one foot on the brake, revving the engine with the other foot and throwing it in gear. That didn't work.
Can you give me some ideas as to what the problem may be and an approximation of how expensive it will be to fix.
Thanks in advance :)

It sounds like it might be the tcc solinoid. you could try unplugging it. I think it is located on the driver side of the transmission toward the front. Had same trouble with a Berreta. That fixed it.

When we put engine in gear it stalls and shuts down

It sounds like a vacuum leak but to be sure this guide can help us fix it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

Please run down this guide and report back.

I have a '95 Chevy Z-71, 5.7 v-8, with approx. 187,000 miles on it. My problem is that it keeps wanting to die when idling and when I come to a stop. It won't do it all the time and it doesn't matter if it is hot or cold. Always starts back up then dies again when I come to another stop or when idling. Already replaced: TPS, IAC valve, distibutor, distributor cap and rotor, plugs, fuel pump, fuel filter, cleaned throttle body, reset timing, new computer. I think that's all. I've done alot to it, and it's still acting up. I've had 8 mechanics look at it, and they can't figure it out either. All ground wires are good as are the wires in the ignition. At wits end! Help!

Sounds like a vacuum leak...replace the PCV, then get a can of spray gumout, have someone help you keep it running, then spray around the intake manifold, brake booster and vacuum lines, when the motor changes speed, you found the leak

[quote:1b65830ada="merlin2021"]Sounds like a vacuum leak...replace the PCV, then get a can of spray gumout, have someone help you keep it running, then spray around the intake manifold, brake booster and vacuum lines, when the motor changes speed, you found the leak[/quote:1b65830ada]

We have done all those things. No leaks. Still acting up!

Engine won't idle. OBD1 codes 43 and 71.

there is no code 71 ther is 72 which is vss or speed sensor on trans. code 43 is knock sensor but need to know if one or two testing is different.

my chevy pickup starts then stalls ---runs very rough and stalls----i cant even put it in gear (automatic transmission) it stalls---i have to pump the gas to keep it running at all and it is extremly rough and still stalls ---when it stalls it appears to make a hard air sucking noise----i have checked the codes and have replaced the map,oxygen sensor,tps,iac sensors-----i cleared the codes and retested and it only shows the code 12 now-----i checked for bad or contamination in the gas --appears ok---i replaced the plugs wires cap and rotor less than a year ago----what could the problem be help please before this thing breaks the bank :oops:

It sounds like you have a clogged fuel filter [most likely] or you may have a vacuum leak around the throttle body or intake manifold. The fuel filter is under the box on the left side frame rail. Make sure you remove your filler cap and disconnect your battery before you start. This relieves the pressure in the fuel line. You could also check the torque on the throttle body mounting bolts. Should be 12 ft. lbs. Hope this helps.

i checked and could not find a vaccum leak---and the fuel filter i had already replaced------the hard vaccum sound only happens when it stalls out.........

It really sounds like a fuel supply problem. Maybe a bad filler cap[too much vacuum in tank], pinched fuel line, or weak fuel pump? Do you have any way to check the fuel pressure? should be 9-13 psi. Also there is a whole slew of other sensors. If all else fails, get it plugged into a diagnostic computer to be sure.

after replacing the iac sensor .map sensor.oxygen sensor,fuel regulator and injectors on the tbi,fuel filter-----it still did the same thing---the sensors where replaced by testing and retrieving the codes----codes 12, 22,32,33,44---which lead me to replace those sensors....and still not getting any results except that the codes nolonger came up with the replaced sensors ----then i did another code test and a new code came up code 54----didnt show up on any previous tests,,,FUEL PUMP :o --i replaced the fuel pump in the gas tank and then it wouldnt start at all---so apart it came again to recheck the instalation-----neither old or new pump would run when i tried to bench test it ----so i got discouraged and just left the new pump in and put it all together again---ouch bleeding profusley from my knucle busted hands ----all connections wwere properly connected the first time and the second time---to my suprise it started after reinstalled and runs great------must be the truck gods dont like me :twisted: ----well at least im up and running again ---thanks for the help :D

Good to hear you got it sorted out. I'll keep my fingers crossed for ya. hopefully it's all smooth sailing from here. :D

I have a 1995 Chevy s-10 (170,000 miles) that won't idle when cold and runs rich.

Here's what I have done so far:

Changed the distributer, wires, plugs, rotor, cap, cooling temp. sensor, idle air control, computer (but not the PROM chip), and coil. The fuel filter has been changed, there is no water in the gas and I have checked the ignition timing.

The spark coming from the coil to the cap is blue, but the spark coming from the end of the wire to the plug is orange. Also, I cannot pull an error code from the computer, I am getting a link read error instead.

When it does run, if it ever backfires when shutting off, it won't idle when started again. If it does start, I can bring the RPMs up, make it backfire, and it runs fine.

Any suggestions?

Have you changed the fuel filter lately? Is there water in the gas? Have you checked ignition timing?

The fuel filter has been changed, there is no water in the gas and I have checked the ignition timing.

What engine is this?

Bad or stuck open EGR valve does exactly what you're descibing.

This is a 1995 1 ton dually, 4wd, manual with a 454.

I'm baffled because this has been going on for about a month. The day it started I was driving a gravel road at about 45mph. Everything sounded fine and it just quit. Like I had turned the key off. I coasted to a stop. It would crank and crank but no fire. I did find a wire to the oil sending unit was melted to the exhaust manifold which shorted it out and caused it to quit. So I replaced the bad section. It fired up but runs like crap. It won't idle. You have to keep your foot in it to keep it running. It has 0 power.

I've replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel pump relay, spark plugs, spark plug wires, cap, rotor, ignition module, ecm, egr valve, map sensor, pulled vacuum lines apart and put a blower to them. I've ran a compression check and everything is at 125psi.

I did find a leak in the driver side middle section of the intake manifold. So I pulled the manifold inspected it with a straight edge for warpage or cracks. It appeared good. So I reinstalled with new gaskets. Once reinstalled it still run the same. I sprayed intake cleaner all around the intake and throttle body and didn't hear any change in the engine.

Any idea's?

Jeremy

It will idle at about 1700 rpm when I unplug the map sensor but still has 0 power.

Amazing! I have the EXACT same problem. I could have written your question. I have done everything you have done and more. Replaced fuel pressure regulator in tbi. My ignition module, cts, tps & egr all checked good. Timing is good and have 16" of vacumn. Replaced coil but it was good. I went so far as to remove cat and muffler to check for plugged cat. No luck there so don't bother doing that. If you find a solution please post it on this web site so I can see it and I will do the same if I find it first. Thank you.

triplxxx, Does your truck have a parasitic .66 amp current draw when it is shut off? Mine does and it might have something to do with the problem. You can check by hooking a dvm or multimeter set on the 10 amp scale between the battery neg terminal and the neg battery cable when the cable is unhooked. This will run current from the battery to the battery cable and you will be able to see it. You must remove the under hood bulb mounted on the underside of the hood or you will read that current draw. You should have only .200 amps max which is used to hold your radio stations. If this is present on your truck I might be able to find the problem from there. oneton

My 95 chevy silverado with a 5.6 liter engine will crank fine. But you must keep feathering the gas pedal to keep it running. It will not idle on it's own. I replaced the fuel filter a few months ago but then it was cutting out. This idle issue is nothing like the events that caused me to replace that filter. The truck has 113,000 miles and has been maintained well. However I have never replace the egr valve.
Last week it did this same thing, once and never again until this morning. This time it was too bad to actually drive, every time you would let off the gas it would die.

check all your hoses for vacuum leaks, and listen for the hiss of a vacuum leak around the throttle body. if everything is good you may have a fuel restriction somewhere else. it could also be the ignition, inspect it thoroughly.