Rough Running Engine

Next time it runs fine, try spraying a mist of water over the cap and wires to see if it acts up. Start with the wires. IF it does, replace them.

Try cleaning out the idle air control valve and see what happens

Engine running rough or misfiring can be cause by the following:

1. Defective spark plug
2. Inadequate spark/coil, defective spark plug wire.
3. Lack of compression
4. False air leakage.
5. Faulty fuel injectors.
6. Insufficient fuel pressure.
7. Contaminated fuel.
8. EGR valve that is leaking.
9. Oxygen sensors.
10. Throttle position sensor.
11. Manifold absolute pressure sensor

Have an engine scan done on this. It might be a vacuum leak or something else. Also check the fuel pressure. Most auto parts do scans for free.

Codes-
22- TPS signal voltage low
34- MAP sensor signal voltage low
42- EST electronic spark timing.

To begin. Did you unplug the tan/blk wire to set the base ignition timing? It is either on the p/s, under the dash taped to the wiring harness or under the plastic cover on the firewall, p/s.

The other codes all refer to bad grounds as a possible cause. Double check all ECM grounds on back of cyl head and be sure the engine is grounded good. If all ok, get a meter and get back to me for further tests

I may be of little help

I'm still stuck in the carburetor age

Are you using fluids recommended for those extreme conditions?

I don't live at the northpole as it sounds like you do, but it get's cold down here in s.C. Too. Anything under 6o degrees is cold to me. But really, at 20s and 30s, just about any machine needs to warm up to operating temperature before you can expect tip top performance.

I mean like---artificial warmth or just let it idle for 5-10 minutes before you take off! Even way back, your horse didn't operate well till he had a warm up!

I really am trying to help. This is how I approach the old vehicle way---as I still drive. If you still think you have a mechanical issue and no one else jumps in with another answer.I will find you another expert, let me know if that's what you want.

I'm sure you are probably familiar with this or something similar. Ex-girlfriends '82 mustang 2oo 6 cylinder was very cold natured.I fell into this at a yard sale for $5 still boxed up. It installs on the lower radiator hose as close to the radiator as possible. Warm water rises!

I had it plugged into a timer and drove a post in where she parked.

She was a bit on the "lazy, inattentive" mode at times, so I kinda put a small hose clamp around the plug portion and a piece of 550 cord (parachute cord) and tied that to her car and tied the extension cord to the post

Presto!---If she backed up, it unplugged itself! (And the wires didn't get snatched out!)

I know they make "dipstick heaters" too---i know little about how good they work

But I can tell you this

The timer was set to come on 3 hours before she drove it

The window stayed defrosted because I guess that was "default" on the heater box, and the heater core got warm

And there was "warmth" coming out of the vents when you 1st cranked up

The engine and radiator were pretty warm

It ran a lot better, until it fully warmed up

This thing came from napa originally, and after seeing this one, one of my friends got one, I think it was under $40, but don't hold me to that ---i still have it. It was used it about 8 years ago

Just some thoughts---thought it could help

The medic

Check battery for condition including load test most places do for free. Then replace belt and tensioner which is recommended every 60,000 mi.

Check fusible link for generator it may not get proper voltage with lights on maybe a strand holding it together. What is voltage at battery with lights on and off

Is the check engine light coming on at all?