Interior lights not working?

On my van the problem was the front dome/map switch.I had to work it alot to get all upper lights come on and will have to take apart and clean contacts maybe with fine sandpaper.

Hey Guys,

It looks like it could be the battery run down relay or the BCM here is a wiring diagram to help you test for the problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Run some tests and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Best, Ken

If you mean the ones up by the roof you pull the handle down, the end caps pop off and there are screws under them. Remove the screws and the handle comes off, light will come free once you remove the handle. Then you pull the wiring free and can change the bulb.

Hello,

I would start by removing the dome lamp lens and checking the bulb to make sure it isn't blown. The lens is removed by inserting a small screw driver in the tab and gently prying it off (see attached picture). If the bulb is good, l suggest checking the fuse. In this case, the fuse is located in the fuse panel on the right side end of the dash. The one you're looking for is labeled TRK/ROOF BRP (see attached diagrams).

Let us know what you find!

First you'll have to find out if the cigarette lighter and rear lamps are on the same circuit.

The rear lights are usually on the circuit with the dome light and door lights. The cigarette lighter is usually on its own circuit because people frequently use them to power different devices.

With the cigarette lighter, have you tried plugging other devices into the socket other than a lighter? Because sometimes the lighter itself will go bad, and not the plug.

If nothing works, then you'll have to check the back of the plug to see if the connector/wiring is good. If it is, then you'll have to probe the circuit with a test light backwards towards the fuse box until you find the break.

For your rear lights, does the dome light work? If so, then it's in the wiring just for the rear lights and you'll have to trace the circuit to the fuse box. If the dome light does not work, then you'll have to trace the circuit from the lights to the switch, then from the switch to the fuse box.

No problem.

And the diagram should have a "Key" that explains the color coding of the wires.

The easiest way to read a diagram is to trace out the specific circuit with a pen. It'll isolate it from the meaningless stuff and allow you to understand it better.

And the wires will usually run up an A pillar or C pillar. I haven't ran into any cars where the wires were ran through a B pillar. Though I'm sure they exist.

Finally, on-line subscriptions to alldata or mitchells are much better for a D.I.Y. Er. They give you access to 1000x more information than a paper manual, and cost about the same price. And they have diagnostic procedures as well.

Good luck.

At AutoZone you can purchase a "Single vehicle" subscription for 25-30 dollars, depending on the vehicle.

If you mean the ones in the door handle itself. You will find two covers that you can remove with a small screwdriver. They have small slots on the sides and will snap out of the handle ends. Next you will find two screws, remove those. Remove the handle. Watch for the retainers that hold the light in, they like to fall out.
Next you pull the light plate out, there will be a loop that is glued in place gently pull it free. Now you can slide the socket off of the lens rails. (Some have a dab of glue some have a clip) Now you can change the bulb.

It has been a while but I believe those are # 192 bulbs.

So when you use the power lock switch or keyless entry? There is a delay if you try to lock when you have a door open so you can get someone out of the back seat. Usually a five second delay after the last door closes. When do the lights flicker? Are you operating something or just by themselves. Just the interior lights or dash lights too. If the battery sensor light is coming on maybe the charging system is not functioning properly, maybe a voltage regulator?