1998 Chevy Blazer Engine died then won't start

Tiny
MLGRAHAM
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 CHEVROLET BLAZER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 65,000 MILES
I started Blazer. Engine ran in driveway for about a minute before turning down the road. After about 100 ft the engine stumbled. I slightly accelerated. After another 100 ft the engine stopped running. It cranks over fine but hasn't started since.

Temp that day was 30-40 deg (engine running fairly cold). I drive it about every day except before this start it sat 7 days. Due to the sudden nature of problem, I'm shooting right for a techy answer ;-) Otherwise, it has been a pleasure to drive.

Haven't checked spark yet but I read more about fuel problems. Fuel filter doesn't seem likely (I'll check it). I'm not impressed it was cold enough lately for a freezing problem. It didn't sit long enough for condensed water in tank - tank was full anyways. Assuming gas quality is good. I hear fuel pump run for about 6-8 seconds when I turn key far enough to engage starter and let the key come back to run poistion. Fuel pump does not come on at all when simply turning key to run position (which I can only presently observe is different than my Pontiac van, in which it runs for a few seconds after moving key to run position). Do any of these symptoms sound familiar?

Personal note: I have started a basic inspection of it. I used to enjoy fully servicing my own older cars when younger but time ran short for it (you know: wife, kids, house). It is a shame today's cars have to be so unserviceable and then expensive - if you can actually find a real mechanic. I'd like to do my own repairs if I can get a good lead on the problem. I'm patient and more than happy to pay/donate. Thanks.

update 12-4-08

With a more careful observation, the 2 sec fuel pump prime is evident with key in start or run position, though pump does not always run every time I turn key. It knows it's already primed?

Have spark on #1 cylinder. The next day, when checking fuel pressure, engine started but would only idle and would sputter when pushing accelerator in any way (vehicle was parked). Engine idle would recover when I let up on accelerator. Later, I continued to push accelerator and engine stalled - like it originally did on the road. It would not immediately restart or even sound like a cylinder is firing. A couple of days layer, it restarted but would again only idle. (Pattern developing.)

Fuel pressure showed right at 50psi. Replaced fuel filter. Fuel pressure same. Local parts store / mechanic (Tim) found spec that psi should be 60-66 and injectore needs at least 58 to even start engine. (It started with 50?) Replaced fuel pump (ouch). Psi maybe 52-53. Engine started but same sputtering continues. Later, Hayned book gave 55-61 range for fuel spec. (Good grief, so what does it need?)

Neighbor body man / repair man (Rick) said to take top of plenum off and see if gas is laying inside bottom part. He said he repaired several 6-cyl Vortec engine with similar problems. Apparently a pre-96 design has additional fuel lines that could crack inside plenum. But after taliking to a techy(?) At H&K (Chevy Dealer) this is a 98 and only lines in plunum would be the 6 to injectors. One cracked injector line seems would not cause these symptoms. I read in your forum that something with a diaphram can fail inside the plenum. I'll have to look that stuff up again.

Rick thought diagnostics would be good to do before tearing off top of engine - then again that's why I'm writing back. Surely these symptoms mean somthing familiar? It is not getting enough fuel - or is it flooding? A sniff at the exhaust pipe doesn't smell rich or gassy but I'm not sure what to expect.

Thanks,
Mike
Monday, November 24th, 2008 AT 11:36 AM

2 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Sir-You should be able to hear the fuel pump come On for 2secs then shuts off when key is at run position this is the primiing time for the fuel system. When the engine fires up the oil pressure sending unit powers the fuel pump.

Try this use a carb cleaner thru the throttle body and see if it fires up-

The ECM B 20amp is normally used to power the fuel pump check if its good and also test the coil and switch side of the fuel pump relay.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/12900_oil_sending_unit_and_fuel_pump_circuit_84.gif

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Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:31 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Sir -is this a vortec 6 cyl spyder injection system-open up the upper lenum and investigate-at the pax side if its washed-up the pressure regulator is leaking-inspect the tubes/poppet valves-to includ the nut kit.

Are you puffing a lot of black smoke during cold starts?
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Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:31 PM

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