Check StabiliTrak light on, running rough and code P0300

Tiny
MARY CORDRAY STROUGH
  • MEMBER
  • 2016 CHEVROLET CRUZE
  • 1.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 50,000 MILES
My daughter's car started either stalling (not because of the echotech) or shutting off and she has to restart it. The check StabiliTrak light comes on but when I run the FIXD on it, it gives me the PO300 code and says that it is misfiring on cylinder one. I change out all four spark plugs and change the air filter (needed it). I erased the codes and the next day it comes back on. The code that I read says miss fire cylinder one but the car says check StabiliTrak. I move the spark plug just in case but it still gives me the code so I change the individual coil on plug. I clear the codes and it does it again the next day. I switch the plug and the coil to a new cylinder and it still gives me the same code.
The car is not telling me miss fire but to still check the StabiliTrak. I just figured that was on since it was riding so rough from the miss fire. Now I don't know. Watch a few videos and they are saying to change out the valve cover because that has been known to blow and give that same reading. I need more info before I do that.
Friday, September 6th, 2019 AT 7:17 AM

20 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,702 POSTS
Hello,

The P0300 is a random misfire not misfire on #1 which can be caused by a dirty throttle body, bad gas, or a bad MAF sensor. Here is a guide to help you clean the sensor and the location in the diagrams below for your car:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/mass-air-flow-service

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.
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Saturday, September 7th, 2019 AT 2:06 PM
Tiny
MARY CORDRAY STROUGH
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
Turns out it had a cracked piston in cylinder 1. It finally tore apart and went through the engine as we were driving it. It was covered under Chevrolet's power train warranty so they replaced her engine. Apparently there was quite a few of these cars that had this problem.
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Saturday, November 2nd, 2019 AT 8:48 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,702 POSTS
Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.
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Saturday, November 2nd, 2019 AT 12:33 PM
Tiny
ADAM FITZGERALD
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
  • 2011 CHEVROLET CRUZE
  • 1.8L
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 77,000 MILES
Hi,
Three weeks ago, I had my transmission failed and replaced with a brand new one. Five to ten days after that it began to produce an issue of after warming the car up to temp and then driving around for thirty to sixty minutes it would idle rough, and cause vibrations that you could feel all the way up into the driver seat at its worst. No check engine lights.

Things that were done to solve / narrow it down;
-oil changed.
-air filter changed.
-Mass Air Flow sensor cleaned with CNC Sensor Kleen.
-Cleaned the throttle body butterfly (TB is three months old).
-Ran 2 different brands of injector cleaner through it.
-Took out the one year old ACDelco platinum plugs that looked sooty around
the outer ring.
-Put the stock NGK iridium plugs in that came with the car.

Eventually brought it to the local dealer, who I told they had to warm the car up, drive for thirty to sixty minutes to produce the symptoms. They didno t want to do that because they need their techs during the day. So they looked at it anyway because I suggested it could be the PCV valve built into the valve cover being stuck open or something like that. They vacuum tested it and said its working fine and they could not find the problem. They suggested doing a clean of the injectors and such with their stronger cleaner as well as doing a bore clean. So they did all that, handed it back to me and said to put in my new plugs I mentioned I had but had not put in yet and that they highly doubt it would continue with the problem.

Ran some errands after work that day and the problem still occurred, no-change. Brought it back, they did not quite know what it could be, said to put my new plugs in; drive it for the weekend and see how it goes. If it still continues they would try to organize a ride along with a laptop plugged into it some evening. So I left and got one km down the road before something went wrong; Heavy misfiring, check engine light was flashing, stabilitrak turned off light came on. Limped it back and gave it to them. Called me the next day and said it was the coil pack and the number one cylinder plug had fouled. So gave them my new plugs and they replaced the coil pack.

Out for a drive again yesterday and the problem arises again after about forty five minutes. Pull up to a stop light and a vibration/rough idle begins at idle rpm of about 700 to 800 rpm until you get moving then its fine. You can also put it in park or neutral and it will still do it at this time too. If you start it from cold and warm it up and drive just a short period of time you will not have it occur and it will purr like a kitten but if you warm it up, drive it thirty to sixty minutes it begins. Still fighting with the dealership over it and they don't really seem like they know or wanna help. So taking a shot in the dark here on the kindness of strangers to help me out here. They have already have charged me $700.00 plus in repairs that have not fixed the problem. So please, if you might have an idea as to what the problem could be any information may aid my situation.
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Saturday, November 2nd, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Hello,

Even though you cleaned the MAF if it is too far gone it will not help I would replace the sensor with a new unit AC delco. Here is one on Amazon for 49.00

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BHGURHW/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=2carprcom-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00BHGURHW&linkId=bdf16fef0565bc3cf6b475181d035f0f

Here is a guide to help walk you through the replacement steps and diagrams below to show you on out car.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-mass-air-flow-sensor-maf

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.
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Saturday, November 2nd, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ADAM FITZGERALD
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
They used BG branded cleaner. They put a new coil pack on it yesterday. Stock air box and usually use esso, she'll, or petrol canada branded fuels at the manual suggested 87 octane. Tried higher octane to no difference.
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Saturday, November 2nd, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ADAM FITZGERALD
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Boots were also good condition before they changed it
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Saturday, November 2nd, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
The only other thing that I can think of is maybe you have a soft vacuum hose and it is collapsing cutting something off or your fuel pressure drops when it gets hot due to fuel pump maybe failing. Maybe when this happens check your fuel pressure as it may be starting to bind and not getting fuel pressure or enough which will cause a miss. auto parts rent them. See link on how to do it.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator
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Saturday, November 2nd, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOEL RICE
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Hello Adam did you have any luck getting this fixed?
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Saturday, November 2nd, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RILEEH
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2011 CHEVROLET CRUZE
  • 71,000 MILES
Last night my car was idling louder and harder than usual and then a notification popped up saying something about my traction, I haven't driven it since, I don't know what to do
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Saturday, November 2nd, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ADAM FITZGERALD
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Yes, that was the summer past but yes. The garage would only road test it for 10-15 min despite me telling them it didn't occur until you got the car warm and drove it for an hour+. Even showed them video proof of the issue. They finally got the person who lived outside the city who works there to take it overnight. They got it to happen and. Immediately knew what it was they said. They didn't have the tramission mounts lined up correctly when replacing the transmission that failed at 76000km. Not my first time having them do this. Once before they fixed a commonly known warranty covered transmission leak on the bell housing and after I got it back it would clunk 1 out of 3 times you started it. When I went to show them it was one. Of those times it wouldn't until I went back outside and it did again. Went back in only to be told they didn't hear anything and thus they can see no problem. Complained enough to get a ride along with the service manager and before we got outside the garage door he picked up on it. Problem; they didn't tighten the bolts tight enough on the transmission mounts. So I've stopped using them since. Complained to Chevrolet directly and got nothing more then that's a shame that you won't be returning.
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Saturday, November 2nd, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Probably it was either service traction control or traction control disabled. Have it scanned for codes it's ok to drive
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Saturday, November 2nd, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOEL RICE
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Thank you kindly Adam for info and swift response,

To be clear can you confirm the issue occurred in Neutral and in Park?

I’m experiencing very similar symptoms though does not present in Neutral or Park, only when the car comes to a stop with the brake applied; also if I apply handbrake and take my foot off the brake while stopped the issue disappears. I’ve been thinking some kind of vacuum issue(?).

Thanks heaps again
Joel
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Saturday, November 2nd, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ADAM FITZGERALD
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Ice had it happen with both. I thought mine was pc system but it wasn't. Get your transmission mounts checked.
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Saturday, November 2nd, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GRAYWOLF612
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 2011 CHEVROLET CRUZE
  • 1.6L
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 69,000 MILES
When my car comes to a stop it pulses and shakes the entire car. The research I've done points to the MAF, MAP, or O2 sensors. I've had opinions thinking it was the MAF but not completely sure. Like to get a professional opinion.
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Saturday, November 2nd, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge first autoparts rent ti. Then clean throttle plat e on both sides an diac hole. With choke cleaner
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Saturday, November 2nd, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GRAYWOLF612
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I'm not exactly sure where those are located I'm a bit green when it comes to mechanical things quick learner just never taught
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Saturday, November 2nd, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GRAYWOLF612
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I have 3 codes showing p0106, p1101, and p0171
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Saturday, November 2nd, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GRAYWOLF612
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I disconnected the maf and it didn't run any differently than with it connected don't know if that could mean anything
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Saturday, November 2nd, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
If you disconnect anything it puts the car in to open loop which it would be anyhow because your service light is on. You have to check the air intake system for air leaks this includes vacuum lines, pcv system grommets as well as duct work going to throttle body. Plus you need to check the ect and act for resistance. Also what was/is your fuel pressure as this can effect the 171 code. It can also be a timing belt causing cam to be out of time. It also may have something to do with your other code with the air leak.
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Saturday, November 2nd, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)

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