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Check engine light on, very slow to drive

Tiny
SCOTTGIANNAR
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 TOYOTA CAMRY
  • 108,000 MILES
First I should start by saying this issue only happens when the check engine light is on.

The car from a complete stop is very slow to drive. If in constant motion does get a bit faster. It will go in reverse perfectly fine though. Also the AC will not work when this issue is going on.

I got car two weeks ago (knowing the issue but not thinking he meant it was everyday because he said only when light is on) oops. First couple days it was hard to start.

Hard to start in the sense it turned over fine but dies out moments later or when put into gear.

Recent I seen a cracked hose from air filter box at end where clip was. I cut end off and put hose on further and re-clamped it. So now it starts with no issues or check engine.

However, I drive for two minutes then it comes on and car is sluggish again.

The weirdest part is this is only on way to work. After work usually 3:00 pm car starts and drives fine for hours and no issues. Only once or twice has it happened on way home.

If it was a vacuum leak should it not be happening no matter what time of day it is. I was searching vacuum leak only because I seen that cracked hose but seems to be another issue.

Sensors? But why would a sensor be bad in AM but work in afternoon?

Please help
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Saturday, October 27th, 2018 AT 8:16 AM

10 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,272 POSTS
Hello,

It sounds like the car is going into limp mode due to an error in the system. Lets run the codes to see what come up so we can fix the issue.

Here is a guide to get us started:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/toyota-trouble-code-definitions-and-code-gathering-method-1990-1995

Please run down this guide and report back.

Cheers, Ken

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Sunday, October 28th, 2018 AT 5:21 PM
Tiny
SCOTTGIANNAR
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Hello Ken, thank you for your reply. I forgot to mention I have tried getting codes by jumping said spots in diagnostics box. However no codes flash even when I do it only when check engine light is on. The check engine stays solid

EDIT: I tried jumping under the hood not one under dash. And the ones I see are TE1 and E1.

One under dash is a bit difficult to see and get wire on. Since under hood did not work I’m guess I have find a way to jump pins under dash
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Sunday, October 28th, 2018 AT 5:57 PM
Tiny
SCOTTGIANNAR
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Okay so a one hit wonder happened. It appears the grease on diagnostic box was stopping the connection. I doubled up on paper clips and the light was flashing.

However, it consitantly flashed with no stops or pauses. Just quick repetitive flashing. I counted over 100 before I stopped it

Weird thing is I could not get it to do it again. One hit wonder. I also did this while light was on

Jumping slots under dash did not bring any different results.
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Monday, October 29th, 2018 AT 2:33 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,272 POSTS
It sounds like the ECM had gone bad I would try to get a used one and plug it in here is the location.

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken
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Monday, October 29th, 2018 AT 9:40 AM
Tiny
SCOTTGIANNAR
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Okay great will get back and share what happens. Until I get and able to replace this part is it bad to be driving it? I have for several weeks and who knows how long previous owner has.

I have been diving it at 15-20 mph keeping the rpm needle just below/on/just about the 1 as to try and not overwork it. Takes forever to get anywhere but is this doing damage?

(Only during check engine when car is sluggish I do this)
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Monday, October 29th, 2018 AT 5:13 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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You should be okay with it not hurting anything, please let me know what happens.
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Tuesday, October 30th, 2018 AT 12:05 PM
Tiny
SCOTTGIANNAR
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Okay so I bought an ECM from junkyard I pulled it. 1994 Camry same make.

The car appears to be okay. No check engine light. However I will know for sure if it goes all day tomorrow without going on. I do notice something different though.

When starting car, it starts right up but the rpm goes past 1 then levels down to just under 1. Before this I believe it just went to under one not sure? I bring this up because I do know for a fact before change when I turn steering wheel (in park) the idle changed slightly. Now it does not.

So while no light and appears be driving okay the idle is different maybe better I do not know if it is normal now or was before.

What should it be at while driving? Is there a MPH that within reason should match a RPM?
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Sunday, November 4th, 2018 AT 12:28 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Not really, I would just drive it the computer should relearn itself and the idle should go back to normal. I would service the throttle bore through to give it a clean start.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

Please let us know what happens.
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Monday, November 5th, 2018 AT 8:39 AM
Tiny
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  • 6 POSTS
Check engine like has appeared again. Did diagnostics box jump with paper clip and got code 71.

This is my cars code or is this stored in ECM that I replaced and I have not reset it? Car does not seem to be moving slow (yet).
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Monday, November 5th, 2018 AT 1:18 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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71 is a ghost code, try to clear the codes and retry.
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Tuesday, November 6th, 2018 AT 9:30 AM

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