No starter my engine wont crank over?

Tiny
AMAION87
  • MEMBER
  • 2018 HONDA CIVIC
  • 10,000 MILES
I have a relatively new (2 years old but just 10,000 miles) car listed above. One day a couple weeks ago I went to start it and several flashing lights came on, the steering wheel seemed locked. It came out of nowhere and was bizarre. I am very busy with work and school so left it parked for 2 weeks and now it is completely dead and doesn't come on. I am not sure if I am still under warranty (I suspect that as I am just over 2 years I am not). What is the best thing to do? Should I have it towed to the dealership? I'm tight on money in general. Any advice would be amazing. I really don't know where to begin and am overwhelmed.
Tuesday, March 10th, 2020 AT 3:44 PM

25 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,640 POSTS
Hi,

Chances are the battery is dead as a result of sitting and simply needs recharged. See this link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-charge-your-car-battery

Next, I have attached two pictures below. The first describes the manufacturer's basic warranty. It is for 3 years or 36,000 miles. The second picture shows the warranty for the battery, if it is bad.

Since this vehicle is two years old and under warranty, I would recommend having it taken to a dealer. The idea that the steering was tight and you had flashing lights, something more than the battery is the issue. It should be under warranty and no charge to you.

Let me know if this helps.

Joe

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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 11:07 AM
Tiny
JACOB GONZALEZ
  • MEMBER
  • 24 POSTS
  • 2017 HONDA CIVIC
  • 2.0L
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 40,000 MILES
I replaced the fuse. Now I m getting a starter system problem. I am not sure if that has to do with the remote start. When I try to start the car from outside with remote start it does not work. The car was hit on the front left. I’m trying to salvage the car.
Also, when I lock my car my gas cap opens. I noticed too that the latch looks broken as well. Also when locking the car the cars lights don t flash. I have tried fixing them in the settings but still nothing.
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Monday, January 25th, 2021 AT 10:58 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
I doubt these issues are related so let's start with one and if it fixes others, then so be it. If not, we can just tackle the next.

These guides can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Please run down these guides and report back.

If the remote start doesn't work, what exactly does it do when you press the button? Does it crank or just not do anything? If it doesn't even try to start, then I suspect there is one of the inhibit functions that is preventing this. It could be the fuel door that opens when you press the lock button. Correct me if I am wrong but you have to press the lock button on the remote and then hold the start button?

Basically if there is a door open or other door including the fuel door it will prevent the remote start from operating.

To confirm this or find what is causing it, we need to hook up a scan tool and see what the inhibit monitor is stating. Basically this tells you what the reason for the remote for not working.
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Monday, January 25th, 2021 AT 10:58 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOB GONZALEZ
  • MEMBER
  • 24 POSTS
Yes that’s exactly what happens. You press the lock button 3 times then remote start button. There are no current codes running through the scanner.
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Monday, January 25th, 2021 AT 10:58 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Okay. If there are no codes then the system doesn't see anything wrong. It thinks it is doing the right thing by aborting the remote start. That means we need to look at these items to see if any of them are telling the computer that it is not okay to start the vehicle. We need to hook a scan tool up and monitor the inputs so we can see what the computer is seeing.

Does the engine start normally without using the remote starter? You mentioned that you are having starting system problems but I am assuming this is just with the remote start but does the vehicle start at all?
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Monday, January 25th, 2021 AT 10:58 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOB GONZALEZ
  • MEMBER
  • 24 POSTS
The vehicle starts great. It’s just when starting it with the remote it does not work.
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Monday, January 25th, 2021 AT 10:58 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVID MARTINEZ2
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2017 HONDA CIVIC
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 33,800 MILES
So I’ve had my car listed above for about 3 months and no problems have ever came up. Just recently in with the span of a week I tried to turn the car on and it wouldn’t start So I got a friend to jump start using the cables and everything was fine but it did it again like 5-6 days later and the same thing I had to get it jump started. I have no idea why this is happening now and I’m scared that it could happen again and I don’t have some else with me to jump start it. And just to be clear I didn’t do anything crazy like drive 500 miles or leave my car on for a crazy amount of time. What might this be?
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Monday, January 25th, 2021 AT 10:58 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Okay. Then we need to get a scan tool and find out what the body computer is seeing for each of these items. If the remote start is the only thing not working then this is being blocked by the computer because it doesn't see all of these conditions met.
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Monday, January 25th, 2021 AT 10:58 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,640 POSTS
Hi,

It sounds like one of three things.

1) A weak battery or dirty/loose connection.

2) Weak or not working alternator.

3) Electrical draw.

_______________________________

To get started, I would recommend to do things in this order:

First, check the battery terminals and make sure they are clean and tight. Next, when you have the vehicle running, drive it to a parts store and have the load test the battery and check the alternator at the same time. Most do it for free. If you don't feel comfortable driving it, here are a couple links explaining how to do it at home. It is very easy and will only require volt meter or multi meter.

Here are the links:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

If you do the checks yourself, then let me know the voltage readings you get when testing the alternator.

If you find the alternator is bad, here is a link that shows in general how one is replaced:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-alternator

Here are directions specific to your vehicle for replacement. The attached pics correlate with the directions.

___________________
See Pic 1

1. 12 Volt Battery Terminal - Disconnect (CLICK HERE).

2. Drive Belt - Remove (CLICK HERE).

3. Drive Belt Auto-Tensioner - Remove (CLICK HERE).

4. Connector and Positive Alternator Cable - Disconnect.

5. Alternator - Remove.

6. All Removed Parts - Install.

___________________________________________

Here are a couple links that you may find helpful when testing the alternator/battery at home:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

___________________________________________

If both the alternator and battery are good, then we need to perform a parasitic draw test to see if there is something on the vehicle causing the battery to die quicker than it should.

Here is a link that discusses common causes:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-dead-overnight

____________________________________________

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

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Monday, January 25th, 2021 AT 10:58 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOB GONZALEZ
  • MEMBER
  • 24 POSTS
Hello sorry for the late reply. I checked the hood latch sensor on the car and it was disconnected. I connected it and the lights and alarm sound worked.
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Monday, January 25th, 2021 AT 10:58 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOB GONZALEZ
  • MEMBER
  • 24 POSTS
Still have the starter issue being displayed on the dash but I think it might be related to when I try to remote start my car it clicks and spins for a 2 seconds then stops. The car does not start. The push start in the car works great though.
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Monday, January 25th, 2021 AT 10:58 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Okay. I suspect we have other issues like this that could be blocking the remote start function. These are called inhibitors. Take a look at the attachments that shows the detail on this system.

If we have a scan tool we can monitor the BCM and see if there is something that it thinks is an issue to prevent the remote start. This will save you from guessing at what it could be.

At the very least we need to check and see if there are any codes. I am sure there would have been one showing an open circuit for the hood latch so these are the things we need to see.
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Monday, January 25th, 2021 AT 10:58 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOB GONZALEZ
  • MEMBER
  • 24 POSTS
There were no codes for the open circuit on the hood latch when I scanned the car. My mechanic could not find that problem.
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Monday, January 25th, 2021 AT 10:58 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
If it was unplugged, that is very strange. However, we need to go through these things it must see in order to start using the remote starter.

If the engine starts fine but only the remote starter is not working then I am sure there is something else on this list that is unhooked or faulty causing it to not function.
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Monday, January 25th, 2021 AT 10:58 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOB GONZALEZ
  • MEMBER
  • 24 POSTS
I took it to Honda and they pulled up DTC P16F4.
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Monday, January 25th, 2021 AT 10:58 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
That can definitely cause your issue. However, do you know if the code was active or stored?

I attached the info about this code so we will need to run through this and see what we find. However, the remote start will be disabled by something like this so we need to dig into it and see what we turn up.
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Monday, January 25th, 2021 AT 10:58 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOB GONZALEZ
  • MEMBER
  • 24 POSTS
It was confirmed dtc. The car was sent to dealer and changed ECU harness. Still displaying starter issue. They noticed the current harness was spliced and naked.
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Monday, January 25th, 2021 AT 10:58 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOB GONZALEZ
  • MEMBER
  • 24 POSTS
Issue still not resolved.
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Monday, January 25th, 2021 AT 10:58 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Okay. Did they replace the harness to try and correct this concern or did they replace the harness per the code? Just clarifying because if you didn't actually tell them the remote start was not working then they would not have checked that operation prior to returning the vehicle to you.

Basically we need them to check the BCM to see if each of these systems is reporting properly because if something is "telling" the BCM that one of them is not operating then it will cause the remote start to be disabled.

Let me know if they looked at the vehicle for the remote start issue because if they did, why did they return it with it not operating? Thanks
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Monday, January 25th, 2021 AT 10:58 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOB GONZALEZ
  • MEMBER
  • 24 POSTS
They noticed one of the circuits for the BCM was not working. Specifically the starter circuit. So they are almost certain that they know the issue.
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Monday, January 25th, 2021 AT 10:58 AM (Merged)

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