no starter my engine wont crank over?

Hi,

Chances are the battery is dead as a result of sitting and simply needs recharged. See this link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-charge-your-car-battery

Next, I have attached two pictures below. The first describes the manufacturer's basic warranty. It is for 3 years or 36,000 miles. The second picture shows the warranty for the battery, if it is bad.

Since this vehicle is two years old and under warranty, I would recommend having it taken to a dealer. The idea that the steering was tight and you had flashing lights, something more than the battery is the issue. It should be under warranty and no charge to you.

Let me know if this helps.

Joe

I replaced the fuse. Now I m getting a starter system problem. I am not sure if that has to do with the remote start. When I try to start the car from outside with remote start it does not work.The car was hit on the front left. I’m trying to salvage the car.
Also, when I lock my car my gas cap opens. I noticed too that the latch looks broken as well. Also when locking the car the cars lights don t flash. I have tried fixing them in the settings but still nothing.

I doubt these issues are related so let's start with one and if it fixes others, then so be it. If not, we can just tackle the next.

These guides can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Please run down these guides and report back.

If the remote start doesn't work, what exactly does it do when you press the button? Does it crank or just not do anything? If it doesn't even try to start, then I suspect there is one of the inhibit functions that is preventing this. It could be the fuel door that opens when you press the lock button. Correct me if I am wrong but you have to press the lock button on the remote and then hold the start button?

Basically if there is a door open or other door including the fuel door it will prevent the remote start from operating.

To confirm this or find what is causing it, we need to hook up a scan tool and see what the inhibit monitor is stating. Basically this tells you what the reason for the remote for not working.

Yes that’s exactly what happens. You press the lock button 3 times then remote start button. There are no current codes running through the scanner.

Okay. If there are no codes then the system doesn't see anything wrong. It thinks it is doing the right thing by aborting the remote start. That means we need to look at these items to see if any of them are telling the computer that it is not okay to start the vehicle. We need to hook a scan tool up and monitor the inputs so we can see what the computer is seeing.

Does the engine start normally without using the remote starter? You mentioned that you are having starting system problems but I am assuming this is just with the remote start but does the vehicle start at all?

The vehicle starts great. It’s just when starting it with the remote it does not work.

So I’ve had my car listed above for about 3 months and no problems have ever came up. Just recently in with the span of a week I tried to turn the car on and it wouldn’t start So I got a friend to jump start using the cables and everything was fine but it did it again like 5-6 days later and the same thing I had to get it jump started. I have no idea why this is happening now and I’m scared that it could happen again and I don’t have some else with me to jump start it. And just to be clear I didn’t do anything crazy like drive 500 miles or leave my car on for a crazy amount of time. What might this be?

Okay. Then we need to get a scan tool and find out what the body computer is seeing for each of these items. If the remote start is the only thing not working then this is being blocked by the computer because it doesn't see all of these conditions met.

Hi,

It sounds like one of three things.

1) A weak battery or dirty/loose connection.

2) Weak or not working alternator.

3) Electrical draw.

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To get started, I would recommend to do things in this order:

First, check the battery terminals and make sure they are clean and tight. Next, when you have the vehicle running, drive it to a parts store and have the load test the battery and check the alternator at the same time. Most do it for free. If you don't feel comfortable driving it, here are a couple links explaining how to do it at home. It is very easy and will only require volt meter or multi meter.

Here are the links:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

If you do the checks yourself, then let me know the voltage readings you get when testing the alternator.

If you find the alternator is bad, here is a link that shows in general how one is replaced:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-alternator

Here are directions specific to your vehicle for replacement. The attached pics correlate with the directions.

___________________
See Pic 1

1. 12 Volt Battery Terminal - Disconnect (CLICK HERE).

2. Drive Belt - Remove (CLICK HERE).

3. Drive Belt Auto-Tensioner - Remove (CLICK HERE).

4. Connector and Positive Alternator Cable - Disconnect.

5. Alternator - Remove.

6. All Removed Parts - Install.

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Here are a couple links that you may find helpful when testing the alternator/battery at home:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

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If both the alternator and battery are good, then we need to perform a parasitic draw test to see if there is something on the vehicle causing the battery to die quicker than it should.

Here is a link that discusses common causes:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-dead-overnight

____________________________________________

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

Hello sorry for the late reply. I checked the hood latch sensor on the car and it was disconnected. I connected it and the lights and alarm sound worked.

Still have the starter issue being displayed on the dash but I think it might be related to when I try to remote start my car it clicks and spins for a 2 seconds then stops. The car does not start. The push start in the car works great though.

Okay. I suspect we have other issues like this that could be blocking the remote start function. These are called inhibitors. Take a look at the attachments that shows the detail on this system.

If we have a scan tool we can monitor the BCM and see if there is something that it thinks is an issue to prevent the remote start. This will save you from guessing at what it could be.

At the very least we need to check and see if there are any codes. I am sure there would have been one showing an open circuit for the hood latch so these are the things we need to see.

There were no codes for the open circuit on the hood latch when I scanned the car. My mechanic could not find that problem.

If it was unplugged, that is very strange. However, we need to go through these things it must see in order to start using the remote starter.

If the engine starts fine but only the remote starter is not working then I am sure there is something else on this list that is unhooked or faulty causing it to not function.

I took it to Honda and they pulled up DTC P16F4.

That can definitely cause your issue. However, do you know if the code was active or stored?

I attached the info about this code so we will need to run through this and see what we find. However, the remote start will be disabled by something like this so we need to dig into it and see what we turn up.

It was confirmed dtc. The car was sent to dealer and changed ECU harness. Still displaying starter issue. They noticed the current harness was spliced and naked.

Issue still not resolved.

Okay. Did they replace the harness to try and correct this concern or did they replace the harness per the code? Just clarifying because if you didn't actually tell them the remote start was not working then they would not have checked that operation prior to returning the vehicle to you.

Basically we need them to check the BCM to see if each of these systems is reporting properly because if something is "telling" the BCM that one of them is not operating then it will cause the remote start to be disabled.

Let me know if they looked at the vehicle for the remote start issue because if they did, why did they return it with it not operating? Thanks

They noticed one of the circuits for the BCM was not working. Specifically the starter circuit. So they are almost certain that they know the issue.

Oh, okay. Maybe I was confused. They are still working on the vehicle to correct this issue or they returned it and are having you bring it back for this? Thanks

They returned it but I’m bringing it back in on Thursday.

Oh. Okay. Now I am on the same page. Sounds like they are on the right path. Please let us know what they find and how it works out. Thanks

They replaced the engine power control module and everything works great. All problems solved.

Great News. Thanks for the update. I am sure that info will help others. Please come back to 2CarPros in the future if you need more assistance.