Engine stalls while driving?

Tiny
JONPINNER30
  • MEMBER
  • 2015 KIA OPTIMA
  • 2.4L
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 90,000 MILES
My car cut off on me while I was driving so I change the starter and it worked for about two weeks then start doing it again. However, this time start smoking after I kept trying to start it. So I changed the starter again and put a new cam shaft sensor on and it started up but it cut back off every time I start driving. Someone told me that I burnt out a wire. I do not know what can it possibly be? Please help me.
Sunday, April 14th, 2019 AT 9:23 AM

24 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Welcome to 2CarPros.

First, if the vehicle cut off while driving, I don't understand why the starter was replaced. Also, can you tell me where the smoke came from? It may have been the starter itself if you were trying for an extended time. As far as the it starting and then turning off when you try to drive it, it could be a few different issues.

First, will it continue to idle after starting of you don't put it in gear? Does it start and then just turn off? Have you ever had the fuel filter replaced? Does the check engine light stay on when the engine does run?

I am going to provide a few different checks for you. They may seem difficult, but if you follow the directions, you should be fine. Also, if you confirm a specific problem when testing, I did provide the directions for repair.

If the light stays on, there will be diagnostic trouble codes stored in the car's computer. You need to scan the computer to retrieve these codes. Here is a quick video showing how that is done.

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

I realize most people don't own a scanner, but often times a parts store will lend or rent one to you. If the light is staying on, try to get a scanner and do what is shown int the video.

Next, low fuel pressure ( a bad pump or plugged filter ) can cause this too. Here is a link that shows how to test fuel pressure:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Here are specific directions for testing fuel pressure for your vehicle. The attached pictures correlate with these directions.

___________________
Step 1

COMPONENT TESTS AND GENERAL DIAGNOSTICS
OPTIMA(TF/QF) 2015 G 2.4 GDI THETA II Engine Control / Fuel System

Fuel Pressure Test (Low pressure system)

1. Release the residual pressure in fuel line .

CAUTION:

When removing the fuel pump relay, a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) may occur. Delete the code with the GDS after completion of "Release Residual Pressure in Fuel Line" work.

2. Install the Special Service Tool (SST).

(1)Disconnect the low pressure fuel feed tube from the low pressure inlet of high pressure fuel pump.

CAUTION:

There may be some residual pressure even after "Release Residual Pressure in Fuel Line" work, so cover the hose connection with a shop towel to prevent residual fuel from spilling out before disconnecting any fuel connection.

(2)Install the special service tool for measuring the fuel pressure in between the low fuel feed tube and the low pressure inlet of high pressure fuel pump (Refer to the figure below).

picture 1

3. Inspect fuel leakage on connections among the low fuel feed tube, the low pressure inlet of high pressure fuel pump, and the SST components with IG ON.

4. Measure Fuel Pressure.

(1)Start the engine and measure the fuel pressure at idle.

Fuel Pressure:
480 - 520 kPa (4.9 - 5.3 kgf/cm2, 69.6 - 75.4 psi)

NOTICE:

If the fuel pressure differs from the standard value, repair or replace the related part (Refer to the table below).

picture 2

(2)Stop the engine, and then check for the change in the fuel pressure gauge reading.

Standard Value:
The gauge reading should hold for about 5 minutes after the engine stops

NOTICE:

If the gauge reading should not be held, repair or replace the related part (Refer to the table below).

picture 3

(3)Turn the ignition switch OFF.

5. Release the residual pressure in fuel line .

CAUTION:

When removing the fuel pump relay, a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) may occur. Delete the code with the GDS after completion of "Release Residual Pressure in Fuel Line" work.

6. Test End

(1)Remove the Special Service Tool (SST) from the low pressure fuel feed tube and the low pressure inlet of high pressure fuel pump.

(2)Connect the low pressure fuel feed tube and the low pressure inlet of high pressure fuel pump.

____________________________________________

If the fuel pump fails and needs replaced, here are the directions for replacement. The attached pictures correlate with the directions. If the pump pressure is within the manufacturer's specifications listed in the above directions, skip the next step and move to step 3.

____________________________________________
Step 2
REPAIR PROCEDURES
OPTIMA(TF/QF) 2015 G 2.4 GDI THETA II Engine Control / Fuel System

Removal

[Type1 for TF]

1. Release the residual pressure in fuel line .

2. Remove the fuel pump service cover (A) in the trunk.

picture 4

3. Disconnect the fuel pump connector (A) and the fuel tank pressure sensor connector (B).

4. Disconnect the fuel feed tube quick connector (C).

5. Remove the fuel pump plate cover (D) after removing the bolts.

pic 5

6. Remove the fuel pump from the fuel tank.

picture 6

[Type2 for QF]

1. Release the residual pressure in fuel line .

2. Remove the fuel pump service cover (A) in the trunk.

picture 7

3. Disconnect the fuel pump connector (A) and the fuel tank pressure sensor connector (B).

4. Disconnect the fuel feed tube quick connector (C) and the vapor tube quick-connector (D).

5. Remove locking ring (E) by use the special service tool [SST No. : 09310-2S200].

picture 8

6. Disconnector the vapor tube quick-connector (A) at the fuel pump, and then remove the fuel pump from the fuel tank.

picture 9

picture 10

Installation

1. Installation is reverse of removal.

CAUTION:

Be careful of fuel pump direction (Refer to the groove in the fuel tank).

Fuel pump installation bolt :

2.0 - 2.9 N.m (0.2 - 0.3 kgf.m, 1.4 - 2.2 lb-ft)

________________________________________
Step 3

If fuel pressure is good, my next suspect is a faulty crankshaft position sensor. Take a look through this link and let me know if it mirrors what you are experiencing.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

If it does, here is a link that shows in general how one is replaced.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

If the description in the symptoms link fit your problem, follow step 4. Keep in mind, the best way to check the sensor is using a live data scanner to see if the engine's RPM signal is lost when it stalls. If it does, the sensor is most likely bad or there is a wiring problem

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle for sensor replacement. Again, the attached pictures correlate with these directions.
______________________________________________
Step 4

OPTIMA(TF/QF) 2015 G 2.4 GDI THETA II Engine Control / Fuel System

Note: The last two pictures show sensor location and the sensor.

Removal

1. Turn the ignition switch OFF and disconnect the battery negative (-) cable.

2. Disconnect the crankshaft position sensor connector (A).

picture 11

3. Remove the protector (A).

picture 12

4. Remove the installation bolt (A), and then remove the crankshaft position sensor.

picture 13

Installation

CAUTION:

Install the component with the specified torques.

Note that internal damage may occur when the component is dropped. If the component has been dropped, inspect before installing.

CAUTION:

Apply the engine oil to the O-ring.

CAUTION:

Insert the sensor in the installation hole and be careful not to damage.

1. Installation is reverse of removal.

Crankshaft position sensor installation bolt:
9.8 - 11.8 N.m (1.0 - 1.2 kgf.m, 7.2 - 8.7 lb-ft)

Crankshaft position sensor protector installation bolt (M6):
9.8 - 11.8 N.m (1.0 - 1.2 kgf.m, 7.2 - 8.7 lb-ft)

Crankshaft position sensor protector installation bolt (M8):
18.6 - 23.5 N.m (1.9 - 2.4 kgf.m, 13.7 - 17.4 lb-ft)

__________________________________

Pictures 14 and 15 indicate sensor location and sensor.

Let me know what you find or if you have questions.

Joe
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Sunday, April 14th, 2019 AT 2:19 PM
Tiny
NATHAN33STL
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2014 KIA OPTIMA
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 103,000 MILES
Was driving and car shut off, tried to start the car and it wouldn't start and smoke started coming from the motor that smelled like something electric. Parked the car for hours tried to start it and it wouldn't even crank; lights and everything came on but wouldn't start or try to turn over.
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Monday, September 7th, 2020 AT 2:23 PM (Merged)
Tiny
4DRTOM
  • MECHANIC
  • 467 POSTS
Hello,

I'm Tom, that doesn't sound to good. First off if you had smoke and a burning smell you need get a good flash light and look over all the wires, harnesses and vacuum lines and see if you can identify what was burning. If you do see something take a pic and upload it here. Right before it happened did the oil light come on? When you put the key into the crank position are you getting any sound, like a click or anything at all sound wise? Do the dash light dim or go out when its in the crank position?

This guide can help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Pull the oil dip stick out check for it being low and smell the oil for a burnt smell too and let me know what you find.
Tom
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Monday, September 7th, 2020 AT 2:23 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,602 POSTS
Can you please shoot a quick video with your phone so we can see what's going on? That would be great. You can upload it here with your response.
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Monday, September 7th, 2020 AT 2:23 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TRETTA
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2013 KIA OPTIMA
  • 4 CYL
  • TURBO
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 80,000 MILES
When my engine is warm and you are stopped with foot on the brake, if you honk the car the engine shuts off. Took it to shop. They said the clock spring burned up. Replaced it. Car still shutting off. Back in shop. Now the crankshaft sensor is supposed to be the problem. Said when it shorted out, it also shorted out the clock spring.
Does this sound logical?
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Monday, September 7th, 2020 AT 2:24 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,873 POSTS
No. They are guessing but their dart is not hitting the board.

The first thing I would do is unplug both horns under the hood, then see if the engine stalls when you press the horn button. If it does not, the best suspect is the horns use a ground wire and where that is bolted to the body, it is shared with other ground wires for some engine sensors, and that terminal is loose.

If the engine still stalls when the horn button is pressed, you will need a scanner to see what the engine computer is seeing and is responding to. That will show which circuit needs further diagnosis.
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Monday, September 7th, 2020 AT 2:24 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FELICIA EARLY
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2011 KIA OPTIMA
  • 4 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 103,456 MILES
Since I took it to the Kia dealership I noticed it had no get up and go to it anymore. Normally when I press the gas it had no problem accelerating. After they had a recall to check my car it acts as though it barely wants to move. Well I got in my car to go shopping yesterday and while my husband was driving the car shut off and we could not drive it. It had a loud clacking sound and it would not crank it totally shut down on us. I know they told me that there was a pin in my wheel that needed replacing I do not know if that broke off, but he said I could drive it until I am ready to replace it. I had no warning lights come on in the car. Please help!
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Monday, September 7th, 2020 AT 2:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,004 POSTS
Sounds like you need to

"Get up and go" back to the dealer!

Explain your plight and how it did not start until the recall repair.

Let us know the outcome.

The Medic
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Monday, September 7th, 2020 AT 2:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FELICIA EARLY
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Will do and I will let you know the outcome.
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Monday, September 7th, 2020 AT 2:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,602 POSTS
Yep they did something wrong, please let us know.
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Monday, September 7th, 2020 AT 2:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
AMPONSEM MICHAEL
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
  • 2009 KIA OPTIMA
Does the engine stopper connector of a kia sorento 24v passes through a relay and if yes how does the relay controls the motor. KIA P/N 0K4H118160 Engine Stop Motor 24v was working normally before the current to the motor got shorted to the ground and since then refusing to operate it, but all we could do is testing it manually with a direct main. And even with the direct main the stopper do opens but cannot close when the ignition is added to the connector.
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Monday, September 7th, 2020 AT 2:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
You are not going to get any answers with such a question because I don't think anybody is going to understand it. What is the stopper you are refering to?

Can you explain in details what happpened and what is wrong?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

If the engine is cranking and not starting, check out the above link for an idea what to look for.
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Monday, September 7th, 2020 AT 2:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MCVSJR
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2006 KIA OPTIMA
  • 1.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 115,000 MILES
Each time I add fuel at gas station, then drive half a block or so the engine starts shaking, and shuts off. Then will restart and usually runs okay.
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Monday, September 7th, 2020 AT 2:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MIKE H R
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,094 POSTS
What it sounds like is that there is something in the fuel tank, it may be some water or the screen for the fuel pump is clogging up sometimes the ethenal in the gas does more damage than good. There are a few items out that you can add to the gas tank, I found that what they call seafoam, gets rid of water and prevents the ethenal from logging the screen on the fuel pump. When you fill the car up you stir sediments that are in the tank up.
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Monday, September 7th, 2020 AT 2:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MCVSJR
  • MEMBER
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Thanks.
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Monday, September 7th, 2020 AT 2:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HILL
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2006 KIA OPTIMA
  • 54,000 MILES
My 2006 Kia optima starts fine then after 3 seconds it turn off. Is this a oil pressure sensing unit gone out? It does not choke out or sputter. It dies like when u turn the car off. I thinking it is a fail safe switch. I don't know anyone with a scan tool to check historic codes. I haven't got a repair manual for it. We just got the car a week ago. Pertty clean car fax.
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Monday, September 7th, 2020 AT 2:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Have the fuel pressure checked and also go to Autozone have the computer scanned for codes its free-
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Monday, September 7th, 2020 AT 2:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
More likely to be a camsensor fault.
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Monday, September 7th, 2020 AT 2:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GROVERGODWIN1
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2006 KIA OPTIMA
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 63,000 MILES
Car puts out bluish smoke when first started and smells like a strong fuel mixture. Must be warmed up and cut off for ten seconds and restarted to get above 2000 rpms.

Went to autozone and codes are possible faulty ecm, HOME VALVE(IHV) or LHV or IAT sensor

What do you think?
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Monday, September 7th, 2020 AT 2:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JAMES W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,394 POSTS
A possible problem with the WCM will "always" come up as a possibility, but rarely is. From your description, I would take a good look at IHV. It may just have to be removed and cleaned with ordinary carb cleaner. Let us know what you find.
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Monday, September 7th, 2020 AT 2:25 PM (Merged)

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