My engine will not crank over why?

This sounds like the starter is having problems or the battery needs to be load tested these guides can help us fix it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Please run down these guides and report back. My first thought is a failed starter or you have a bad battery cable that feeds the starter. Both would exhibit those symptoms and still leave the interior alone as they are fed from a different circuit. I would start by cleaning the battery connections on the cables at both ends. Pay close attention to the cables where the terminals attach, I have had more than a few that looked fine but the cables were corroded inside.

I went to start after sitting for 2 weeks car turned over about half a turn or less. It seemed like a low battery I changed battery and starter car still does the same . I,m at a loss trying to figure out what is wrong with it I tried to read computer input but when I changed the battery i lost all info. please help if you have any idea what is wrong. Thanks Ray

First, you must be aware that in the '90s, the industry standard was that a good, fully-charged battery would be able to crank the engine fast enough to start after sitting for three weeks. That was due to the drain from the numerous computer memory circuits. Since then, cars have had many more computers hung onto every concealable part of our cars, so it's unlikely that three weeks is still relevant. What you should have started with was charging the battery at a slow rate for at least an hour. Now that you have a different battery installed, (and you didn't say it was a new one), it sounds like it too is not fully-charged.

Measure the battery's voltage. If it's good and fully-charged, it will be 12.6 volts. If it's good but totally discharged, it will read close to 12.2 volts.

I had the battery fully charged that
I put in.and the battery that was in it
before had good readings. I have ruled the battery out.

Next, turn on the head lights so current is trying to flow, then measure the battery's voltage again, right on the posts if you have top posts, otherwise, you'll have to skip right to the side post bolt heads. Please tell me what you find for voltage. If you have top posts, now move the meter probes to the cable clamps and measure again. You should find exactly the same voltage.

If you have side posts, we'll have to skip over part of the tests and go right to the starter. Put one meter probe right on the large stud on the starter that the battery cable is bolted to, and the other meter probe on an unpainted surface on the engine block. You'll find full battery voltage at first, but I'm interested in the voltage you find when a helper tries to crank the engine. During normal cranking, that voltage must stay above 9.6 volts. When you have a cable or connection problem, you're going to find considerably lower voltage.

Another clue to a bad cable or connection is the head lights or interior lights will get real dim during cranking.

hi i have a 2007 saturm VUE my problem is if i dont start it up within 12 to 18 hrs it wouldn"t start something drain my car battery so that i got to get a jump but as long as i start it up and drive it within 12 hrs its ok but anything longer then 12 hrs without start it & drive it it wouldn"t start what cause this problem

Get a battery drain test-sounds like something is draining the battery overnite

yes i done put in three different brand new battery went to three different place had my altornator starter evrything check and everthing comes up perfert buy what can b drain the battery

Just to add to this one you have to get whats called a parstic draw test it will see what the draw on the battery is with everything turned off.Then you have to start pulling fuses to narrow down what circuit the draw is on.I have seen dome lights map lights cargo lights even window switches causing drained batterys.First you have to find the circuit its on then start unplugging things on the circuit to find the drain.Sometimes the drains are easy to find other times there very hard to find.

i thought my battery was bad because it barely turned over then clicked and then nothing. so i put a brand new battery in yesterday and the same thing happened all lights are bright but just wont turn over.

It sounds like the starter motor has gone bad. I would go over this guide to be sure and if so get a AC Delco unit. Check for power at the trigger wire.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Here is a guide to help you step by step with instructions in the diagrams below to show you how on your car:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-starter-motor

Check out the diagrams (below). Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.

I first thought it was alternator and replaced it but it was not the problem. A wire from starter to alternator burnt so replace wire but after doing so battery will not charge car and jumping it only revs it. It wont turn over.

Hello,

There is a starter relay that needs to be checked. Here is a guide to help and the location of the relay as well as the starter wiring diagrams so you can see how the system works:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Starter relay - left side of engine compartment, attached to UBEC bracket.

This guide can help as well:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Check out the diagrams (below). Please run some tests and get back to us.

Cheers, Ken

The engine turns over but will not crank... Was riding down the road and lost all power.... I can hear the fuel pump engage and i have pressure at the fuel tray i pulled one of the spark plugs out with the coil pack and i am getting fire at the plug... Im at wits end lol

Did you lose all power or did the engine just shut off and won't start?Any codes in the computer?

My wife was driving. She said it was like it lost all power.... I don't have a diagnostic machine and it won't crank so I can't take it to someone. When I spray a little starting fluid in the throttle body it will crank for a second then shut off

Is the security light on solid or flashing when trying to start it or with the key in the run position?

It comes on solid and then goes off.... Like it always has

What is the actual fuel pressure at the fuel rail?

I am having to back yard it and not having a fuel pressure gauge on hand I can tell you that when I press the shrader valve on the fuel tray I'm get a two to three inch spray

Spraying fuel so many inches doesn't tell me the pressure.Auto zone rents fuel pressure gauges to measure the pressure.Also they may even rent you a code reader depending on which state you live in.So itrruns normal on a starting fluid?If so its a fuel related issue.Also ask auto zone about rent a noid light set for checking injector pulse.Which engine do you have?

V6 awd l. I live in GA and I just got a code reader about to check the codes now

And the code reader isn't giving me any codes

Ok I got a fuel pressure gauge and when I switch the car to on and can hear the pump come on. The gauge goes to 53. Then it goes back down. I can't start the car to check it in idle cause it won't crank.

So as soon as the fuel pump stops running the fuel pressure. Drops from 53 to 0psi?Because it shouldn't do that. Also did you get a noid light to check for injector pulse?Have you checked all the fuses?Do you have a test light?

No I didn't get the noid light. Yes I've checked all the fuses with the test light. Everyone I've talked to is saying its a bad fuel pump. The fuel pump is $478 at AutoZone.... I really hope that's not the case

How about the fuel pressure regulator... If it is bad would that cause it to lose its pressure like that?

The pressure regulator could cause it to bleed down so could the pump.But if the pump is putting out 53psi while the pump is running it should start.

With the key in the run position see if you have power to the injectors?

Ok lets make sure I'm doing this correctly.... I pulled the plug off the injector closest I could reach. Put my red probe in the plug and grounded my black probe.... Doing that I got nothing

Ok I've realized I was doing it wrong.... Yes I'm getting .50 to .54 volts.... A half a volt basically

The spec sheet I got from AutoZone says the minimum fuel psi should be 100 and max psi should be 115... Does that sound right?

The pressure should be 48-56psi you should have battery voltage at the injectors with the key in the run position. With the key in the run position see if you have battery voltage to both sides of the injector fuse?

Yes its got battery power at the fuse. I don't have a stethoscope so I used a rubber hose to see if the injectors were clicking and they weren't just trying to turn the engine over but when I sprayed ether in the throttle body to get it to crank it was very apparent that they were clicking. I checked two injectors just to be sure

you should have battery voltage on terminal number 2 the red wire at each injector harness with the key in the run position?If not I would check the splice pack for those wires on the right side of engine under the intake air duct.

Ok flash forward... I've just replaced the fuel pump that was 537 bucks..... It acts like it wants to spin now but still not cranking I'm bleeding the lines as I turn the ignition on and off pressure build up just still doesn't seem to be holding still

So what did you find with what I asked you to check?

All the fuel lines from the tank go into a separate box about 12 inches from the tank.... What is that box and what's it do.... Looks like some other sort of filter

That box is your charcoal canister it handles the fuel vapors from your gas tank not raw liquid fuel.Its for smog.

Ok so I think that someone put something in my gas tank... Water or something.... Cause whatever was coming out of the fuel tray was milky and didn't even have a strong gas smell to it. So I pulled the tank back out. Emptied it rinsed it with good gas and cleaned it out.... I got it all back in now and definetly getting gas to the fuel tray but its still not cranking.... What now... Oh and I do have power to each of the injectors