While driving the engine started misfiring and shut off?

I forgot to mention that I have fuel pressure, I'm getting fuel to the injectors, I'm also getting spark to all cylinders, and my air filter is clean. One thing to know is that I recently changed my spark plugs, and after cranking the car a bit the spark plugs were covered in combustion. The whole spark plug was covered in all black. It looked like they had been in there for a while even though i just put them in.

Hi,

Could you take a pic of the spark plugs and upload them for me to see? Also, if they were instantly covered in something black, it may be you have too much fuel pressure. Were all cylinders like this when you checked them?

Also, is the vehicle running at all at this point? If it isn't running, are you sure there is spark to the plugs? If you haven't checked, here is a link that explains how to check for spark:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-for-ignition-spark

One other thought. If it isn't running, record it cranking and upload it for me to hear.

Let me know.

Joe

Okay, so up to this point i have bought an obd and compression kit. There are 0 codes that pop up and for the compression it was 150, 150, 150, 130. So, compression is good.

The plugs look like new, but they never should have turned black after such a short period. Have you checked the fuel pressure? It may be too high.

Let me know. Also, when it stalled the first time, before you replaced everything, did it restart or not?

Joe

The first time it stalled out it wasn't able to turn it on until i got home and cranked it. When i cranked the car, it took a while, but it did turn on but after that it wouldn't. For the fuel pressure I'm not sure how to measure that because there isn't the valve on my car.

Let's try something. If it still isn't starting, do this:

See if the engine will start if you use starting fluid. If it does and then stalls, we know it is a fuel-related issue. If there is no change, I need you to check for spark at the plugs.

Here is a link that explains how to check:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-for-ignition-spark

As far as the fuel pressure is concerned, it is checked at the fuel filter. I attached the directions below for you.

Let me know.

Joe

See pics below.

I just tried using starter fluid and it didn't work. The car wouldn't start so i think it's still something spark related.

Have you checked for spark? If not, try that. Also, when you are cranking the engine, see if the tachometer moves at all. If it doesn't, there is a chance the crankshaft position sensor has failed.

Let me know. Also, let me know if you have a live data scan tool. If you do, see if there is an RPM signal while the engine is cranking.

Take care,

Joe

Okay, yes, so the tachometer is not moving at all. I have checked for spark, and I am getting them on all 4 cylinders.

Hi,

That is odd. If you have spark, you should have an RPM signal. The tachometer gets a signal from the ignition control module in the distributor. I attached directions below for testing it. Take a look at them and let me know if you feel comfortable performing them.

Next, I need you to record it cranking and upload it for me to hear.

Let me know.

Joe

See pics below.

Yes, so i was wrong, the tachometer does work. I tried using starter fluid again which caused it to start for a split second but then it shut off again.

If that is the case, it isn't getting fuel. You mentioned the pump was replaced and you have fuel pressure. So, that leaves a problem with the injectors.

I attached a pic below. Note that each fuel injector has a yellow wire with a black tracer. That is the power supply to the injector. Once you turn the key to the run position, each of those wires should have power. Using a test light, connect the alligator clip to the battery negative then probe the yellow/black wires to confirm the test lamp lights up, indicating power.

If they have power, we need to check if the ECM is providing a ground path to complete the circuit. The ground wires are brown, yellow, blue, and red. To check if there is a ground path, connect the alligator clip of a test light to the battery positive. and probe those wires one at a time while you have a helper crank the engine. When it is cranking, the test lamp should strobe on and off.

Try this and let me know what you find.

Joe

See pic below. I highlighted the ground path wires and circled the power wires.

So, i replaced all the injectors and then i changed my crankshaft position sensor. I'm stumped on what it could be. I'm thinking something spark related. The car only cranks now it doesn't start at all now.

Hi,

It could be spark related, fuel related, timing related, and so on. Is it possible for you to record the engine cranking and upload it for me to hear?

Let me know.

Joe

Hi,

Thanks for the video. I was thinking it was timing related, but it doesn't sound that way. It sounds normal.

I read back through everything. You indicated there is spark and when you use starting fluid, there is no change. That is odd. When you checked the spark, is it a hot blue snapping spark or does it appear orange or white in color?

Let me know.

Joe

The spark appears to be blue. Since I had some time i decided to switch out my distributor i got from the pick n pull and pull one out of a running car i had laying around. To my surprise the car started for a second but this time I could do keep doing it.

So, while i was messing with the ignition timing a couple of things happened.

1.The car ran without cylinder one for an extended period, but we turned it off (we were checking spark and it just turned on).
2. After that it wouldn't start again and the spark plugs weren't sparking anymore.
3. I changed it back to the original distributor and still no more spark.
4. It was all 4 cylinders that wouldn't spark not just a single one.

Hi,

I attached the diagnostics for the ignition control module. Take a look through them and let me know if you are comfortable performing them.

Joe

See pics below.

2000 Honda civic ex. 1.6L 230000 miles.

Hi,

I attached diagnostics related to the ignition control module (ICM). Take a look through them and let me know if you are comfortable performing them.

Take care,

Joe

I haven't checked the ICM just yet due to little to no time but I will later today. But this morning I had a friend over and when I went to start the car it started but as soon as the video ended it started to idle by itself, I didn't need to give it gas. At 1.5 pm but the thing is i didn't touch anything from the last time i worked on it. What changed?

Hi,

I noticed the timing belt cover is off. Have you checked to make sure the timing is correct?

Let me know.

Joe

I tried searching up how but i can't seem to find the notches that are being shown in the video or any markings on the belt.

Hi,

I attached two pics below. One shows the marks for the crankshaft and the other shows the camshaft.

I just listened again and have a question. Have you confirmed there isn't a plugged catalytic converter?

Let me know.

Joe

See pics below.

I checked the timing it looks all lined up. I haven't checked the Catalytic converter but before the car stopped running i did have a faulty catalytic converter code.

Remove the upstream oxygen sensor and see if it runs any better. It won't be perfect, but the additional outlet for exhaust to escape will help.

Also, take a look through this link. You may find it helpful.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

Let me know.

Joe