Starter not working

Sounds more like you have a bad battery. When it is fully discharged, you'll still read 12.2 volts. To draw a good battery down to 6 volts you would have to have such a huge load on it, like a wrench dropped across the posts. I think it's more likely you weren't making good contact with the meter probes. I've been fixing tvs for 40 years, and that has happened to me all the time.

What I would try next is to get a good battery / clean the connections / or use jumper cables to get voltage on the battery cables, then measure the voltage on the output terminal on the generator. If you find 0 volts there, a fuse or a fuse link wire is burned open. The generator may be working but the current can't get back to the battery. Sometimes Ford likes to tap off that terminal to feed other circuits, and that could explain the no-crank problem.

You didn't say how the old unit failed. If it had two shorted internal diodes, that would have burned open the fuse, but if that was a fuse link wire, there would be a carbon track left behind. It's also possible for those wires to corrode and just partially open up. Either way, the strong current from the new generator trying to charge the battery would finish the job. Usually you won't smell that though.

You havn't got any different keys have you or like had one made. I would try a fresh battery or have that one charged real good. With the theft light flashing like that it won't start it has gone into lock mode and won't start. That is why I was asking about the key deal the key that come with the truck have a chip built into it if anyother is used it will lock it down. And the battery may be the problem(NOS) 8)

It sound like the battery has gone bad, here is a guide to help you get it changed out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-car-battery

Let me know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

Are you sure the linkage is connected?

It could have.

Start with fuel pressure check. The pump may have failed

Roy

Glad you got it fixed.

Take care,
Joe

What is the pressure? The pump could be working but not giving pressure

Roy

Need to have BATTERY DRAIN TEST
NOTE: Amperage draw will vary from vehicle to vehicle depending on equipment package. Compare to a comparable vehicle for reference. No production vehicle should have more than a 50 mA (0.050 amp) draw.
BATTERY DRAIN TEST
1. Ensure junction box/fuse panels are accessible without turning on interior and hood lights. Drive vehicle over 30 MPH for at least 5 minutes. Park vehicle and allow to sit with ignition off for at least 40 minutes to allow electronic modules to power down. Go to next step.
2. Connect a fused jumper wire between negative battery cable and negative battery post. Disconnect negative battery cable from negative battery post, without breaking the jumper wire connection to prevent modules from resetting. Go to next step.
NOTE: It is very important that continuity is not broken between negative battery post and negative battery cable when disconnecting battery cable or connecting ammeter. If continuity is broken, go to step 1.
3. Ensure ammeter is set to read milliamps with at least a 10 amp capability. Connect ammeter between negative battery cable and negative battery post. Remove fused jumper wire. Go to next step.
4. If excessive current draw is present (50 mA or more), pull fuses from battery/central junction box one at a time and note any current drop when each fuse is removed. DO NOT reinstall fuses until test is complete. Go to next step.
5. Check wiring diagrams for any circuits that run from battery without passing through battery/central junction box. Disconnect these circuits if current draw still exists. Repair appropriate circuits as necessary.