Car with no power to Move?

Joe, thank you for your response.
When I mentioned the car stalling, I meant that although the engine runs smoothly, the car won’t move forward or backward when I press the accelerator. The engine starts easily and runs well, with no strange noises or odors coming from the engine or exhaust. Everything seems normal, but there’s no power at all.
I initially thought it might be a fuel issue, which is why I replaced the fuel pump assembly (that didn’t solve the problem). Do you think I should consider replacing the fuel injectors? Since there are four injectors and the problem occurred suddenly, I’m thinking it’s unlikely that all four would fail at the same time, but I could be wrong.
Another thought I have is that if it were a problem with the fuel pump or injectors, the engine should shut off on its own. However, in my case, the engine keeps running indefinitely, which suggests that fuel is still being supplied to the engine. This makes me think the fuel pump and injectors are probably fine. So, I’m puzzled†what could be causing the total power loss?
I read the link you shared, and it mentioned that if the catalytic converter fails, I would still have low engine power. However, in my case, there’s no power at all, and after a few hours, the car regains minimal power, but I can only drive about 100 meters before it stops again.
I replaced the four NGK spark plugs in the summer of 2022, so I don’t think they should have failed so soon.
Thanks again for your help.
Ming

When the car stalls, it feels as if I’ve shifted into neutral. Could this be a transmission issue?

Hello Joe,
Yes, when I shift the gear to Drive and rev the engine, the car doesn’t move. (The same as if I shift the gear to neutral.)
If I wait for a few hours and restart the car, it initially moves about 50-100 meters, but with very weak power. Then it stops completely, and even though the gear is in Drive, it behaves as if it's in Neutral.
As I mentioned earlier, there's no unusual sound, smell, or anything like that. I replaced the fuel pump assembly, but it made no difference (I removed the back seat to access the fuel pump assembly and haven’t put it back yet, so I can hear the fuel pump working).
I also let the car run for an extended period, and the engine didn’t shut off on its own, so I assume fuel is being supplied to the engine.
Thank you so much for your help. I’m completely at a loss and now have no idea where to even begin looking for the issue.
Ming

Joe,

I googled and found many people experienced the same issue as mine and most possibly the transmission is the problem, which is beyond what I can handle. Maybe I will have to tow it to the junkyard. It’s a 2001 Honda Civic EX with 101,600 miles on it, and I estimate the value to be around $1,500. It's not worth spending a lot of money on transmission repairs.
Thank you very much.
Ming

Hi Joe,
I checked the transmission fluid, and it’s both clean and at the right level.
I googled and found many people have the same symptom as mine. They mentioned the issues with CVT transmission for Honda Accord, Civic, and Odyssey released during 1999-2004. One said "Very common issue. The torque converter fails causing the whole transmission to mess up."
It looks like there’s not much more I can do on my end.
Thank you for your help.
Best,
Ming

Joe,
It's strange that the engine light hasn't come on yet.
Do you think replacing the transmission fluid and filter at this point would help? Is it worth a try? The car now has 101,000 miles on it. I bought it used four years ago, and I guess the transmission fluid and filter have never been changed. Although the fluid looks good, it might not be.
Thanks a lot,
Ming

Joe,

The fluid is reddish. I kept trying and the transmission began making squealing noise starting yesterday.
I saw someone's post. He had the same problem as mine. He changed the transmission fluid, which allowed him to drive for a short time, but after about half an hour, the same issue occurred, and he couldn't drive back home.
Someone posted this: "The internal filter is full of friction material debris, and the pump is starved of fluid. Once this happens, there is not enough hydraulic pressure to keep the converter full nor the clutches engaged. All movement ceases. When you shut the engine off, the debris falls away from the filter to the bottom. Restart the engine, and the debris is slowly sucked up again until fluid flow is blocked off again."
This post helped me understand why the car can move for a short distance after sitting for a few hours. Yesterday, I mistakenly thought the filter was external and was planning to replace it. However, based on the information in the post, it seems like the transmission has an internal filter, which I won't be able to access myself.
Thank you,

Ming

Joe,

I plan to get this done in the next few days. You mentioned the importance of using the correct type of transmission fluid. After checking the manual, it specifies: "Always use genuine Honda ATF-Z1 (Automatic Transmission Fluid)."
My plan is to flush the transmission twice and then add the final fluid. I’m thinking of using Valvoline Import Multi-Vehicle (ATF) Full Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid (attached is a picture that shows it’s recommended for Type T-IV, ATF-Z1, etc.) For the initial two flushes, and then using Genuine Honda Fluid 08200-9006 CVT-1 Continuously Variable Transmission Fluid for the final fill.
Does this sound like a good approach? I'm considering this because the Genuine Honda fluid is significantly more expensive.

Thank you so much,
Ming

Hi Joe,
I am totally lost. Just called two Honda dealer nearby. I gave my VIN and asked them to check if it has CVT. Both of them said no. They said it's a "4-speed auto transmission DW-1".
When I use the symptoms to research online, people had the similar problem always said CVT for 2001 Honda Civic so I mistakenly assume I have a CVT car. So it seems like NOT ALL 2001 Honda Civic EX cars have CVT.
Also I was transferred to the Part department and I gave the guy the VIN again to ask him to order a transmission filter for me. He checked and said there is no filter came out for this car. Weird.

I will still do the flushes no matter it is CVT or not.
Thank you,
Ming

Since it is not a CVT, I think I cannot use Genuine Honda Fluid 08200-9006 but I can still use the Valvoline Import Multi-Vehicle (ATF) Full Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid to flush (The picture you sent shows ATF-Z1 is till good to use )

Okay. Then probably I cannot use Valvoline since the package did not show DW-1. Another product shows DW-1 on the back and I will use it:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B093R9YZ75
Thank you so much

Yes. It's confusing. The VIN is: 2HGES26711H543064
You said The ATF-Z1 is for a CVT and DW-1 is for a non-CVT Honda transmission. The dealer said it's not a CVT and it use DW-1 but the user manual coming with the car says the following:
"Always use genuine Honda ATF-Z1 If it is not available, you can use a DEXRON III Automatic transmission fluid as a temp replacement"

That's the reason I think maybe the Castrol brand is a safe choice because it works with both types --- CVT and non-CVT.
Thank you so much.