Engine will not crank over? Starter is not working?

I appreciate the response. The RPM Gauge moves all the way and back. When the CKP is damaged, does the RPM move at all? And I could find the link you mentioned I should follow to test and replace the sensor?

Hello Ken,

Thanks for the reply. Your experts have helped tremendously. I received 2 diagrams from Joe showing the wiring of the alternator to the starter. I cannot read either one (too small and blurry). They maybe what I need now or not. What I need is a sketch or guiding instruction as to how to trace the alternator wiring from the B post on the solenoid of the starter. Where does this wire go? How do I replace it? I tried to test for continuity between it and the terminal on the alternator (the one with the nut and washer and a wire) (not the one with the connector). I did not get any continuity.

To all of you (Ken, Alex, Joe and the rest of your experts).

I want to express my appreciation for your help. I was able to replace the fuse/relay junction block, learn all about the engine and body harnesses, replace the battery cable, remove clean and reinstall the starter, test and replace the alternator-generator and wiring and correct the connection of the starter ignition trigger switch. I also learned a great deal about the role of the BCM and ECM in the charging and starting-ignition phases. So, with your help I finally restored power to the system and the car is back to service. My sister is driving it to/from her office and is very happy with the results. You expressed interest to know what the problem(s) was/were. So, here are the results: 1. Relays- starter, run/crank relays weren't making reliable contacts inside the junction block. Starter j-fuse 26 was blowing repeatedly. J-fuse 21's blade was not getting power except intermittently. The block as a whole was compromised by previous testing. 2. The scanner initially was registering an f-generator code 0622 due to wiring disconnect: there was no continuity in the wire and no voltage. 3. The alternator was giving 11.38 volts only (but inconsistently since the battery wasn't losing charge). 4. The starter tested consistently good, but its trigger switch was registering 12.4 volts off and on. Finally, the car was starting every time after I reached the conclusion that this trigger switch-connector was being separated and the starter not getting the ignition switch starting command (the first hint came after I started the car and went for a test drive. When I turned off and on the ignition in the driveway, the car didn't restart. The starter switch-connector wiring came loose inside its housing due to vibration- broken clip. I did not think it would do that. Once I fixated the connector inside its switch, the car started every time (but not until today when I finished doing all I described above and went for a final test drive, the car did not want to restart after I shut the engine off. It was clear at that point that something was coming off during driving! I made sure it was not going to come off again and gave my sister the car this afternoon, and I am ready to go on restoring my 3.8 Grand Prix (everything- complete overhaul and lots of body work and paint) and a family Ford 1.3 b (this one has primitive relay box- which was melted like molten lava! I replaced it and its primitive harness altogether using the cut and splice method Joe talked about) has oil leaks, blown head or intake/exhaust manifold and requires major engine restoration work.

Ken and Joe, absolutely, I will be sure to recommend your experts to friends. I do have one last concern out of curiosity. When the trigger switch on the solenoid was being disconnected from its purple wire connector, what was causing the IPC (instrument panel) to flicker later after other lights were displayed one by one (the tire pressure followed by the traction control symbol followed by the ABS and then the Theft Deterrent Symbol) almost always in that order? When the car is shut off, the trigger switch reconnected, and the car restarted, everything is back to normal. I just need to understand this part (the IPC part/how it relates to the trigger switch being disconnected while the car is in motion and the switch isn't being triggered-its circuit is open- right?) And could this disconnect have caused damage to the alternator or other parts or components? I know the circuitry involves the switch, solenoid, the ECM, the BCM, the battery, the F and L connectors of the generator on the alternator and the instrument panel, fuses/relays, but while the vehicle already in motion? Thanks again.

I replaced the crankshaft position sensor. I replaced the starter. It still only makes a single "click" noise when I go to turn the key over. What could be the issue? Maybe the camshaft sensor needs replaced as well as the crankshaft position sensor? Please help.

Wife's battery went dead at work, they jumped it off with a golf cart ! It blew the headlight lamp bulbs right off! The dash gauges, work radio works, it won't start with the ignition. I can short the starter and it will turn over. Wh� t could be wrong with it?

Sometime when I go to crank my car it turns over but then goes dead again like it is not getting gas. But when I turn it over and give it a little gas it catches up and idles. But sometimes I can just turn the key and it starts right up. Other times I have to give it some gas so it will not go dead after I turn the key over.

Hello, this morning when I tried starting my car it wouldn't turn over. Also, it keeps giving me this little symbol with a car and a lock going through it. Can someone please help me? I need my car to start.

The last couple weeks its taking three to four times turning the key to get it to start and now it is a slow wind up start. Any ideas of what it could be?