Car started once after replacing fuse, now will not start again

Tiny
PUPPYWEE
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 CHEVROLET PRIZM
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES
We were trying to start a car that had been sitting for a while. We had started it up fine about a week prior if that.

It would crank, and sounded strong, but would not catch.

None of the electronics worked, except for the horn.

We jumped the battery, but this made no difference.

We replaced the battery with a brand new one that we just bought.

No difference.

Replaced the intake filter.


Finally, it started checking fuses. The 100-amp fuse was blown. Replaced that. Still would not start, but now we had power to most things but not all. The radio and dome light didn't work.


I went looking at more fuses and found the fuel injection fuel was bad - I think - it was a 15A fuse slot by the battery, and the cover said "EFI or F-HTR." Replaced that with a spare that was in the box.


The car finally started! Flawlessly. Everything worked - except for the radio. Air, heat, lights, locks, windows, wipers, dash, etc. All worked. We sat for a while and revved the engine to about 2000 RPMs, the car was probably running for 5-6 minutes and was sounding/running just fine. We were about to go test drive it to make sure it handled properly, but decided to turn it off first to see if it would turn back on - 11pm at night, didn't want to get stuck.


Could not get it started again.

The fuse looks fine. The power stayed on, but the car was doing the strong crank but no start. We tried pumping the gas, flooding the gas, and jumping the battery again. Nothing.


At some point the car wasn't even letting us turn the key over. At this point, I started suspecting the anti-theft system. We disconnected the ground on the battery for about 5 minutes, and then tried again. It allowed us to try cranking again, but would not start, still.


We have a multi-meter and a test bulb. I don't know the proper way to use the meter. Or the bulb for that matter. I connect it to the ground on the battery and poke the little metal pins on the fuses.

For the bulb, it's weird. In the fuse box that is in the car, behind the change bin on the left of the steering wheel, there is a 15A fuse in there that doesn't light up. So, we replaced it with a fuse from under the hood that we know lit up.

Then, it didn't light up when we replaced it. Putting it back under the hood, it lit up.


Some fuses in the coin box fuse area do light up, but most don't. Does that mean they're bad fuses, or is there some sort of master fuse, that powers some of the box but not all of it. Or do some of those fuses just not have power unless the car is on running, even if it has power?

There are lots of fuses that aren't lighting up with the light, but do not seem bad when you visually look at them. Again, I don't understand if they should all light up, or only some.


Can the anti-theft be causing this? It is not the type that uses a key fob. It is some kind of RFID thing that you hold up to a space under the steering wheel, wait for it to beep, and then you can start the car. The security system I mentioned is the ilock system. But I have no key fob with buttons and never have.

Thank you for any advice.
Wednesday, May 18th, 2022 AT 10:35 PM

1 Reply

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,536 POSTS
The first thing you want to do is remove the aftermarket alarm system, they cut into the main power of the ignition switch which supplies power to the fuse panels. These are common to cause all kinds of problems. Reconnect the wiring that was cut to install the alarm. This should fix the problem. Here are wiring diagrams for the main ignition switch and main power with a guide to show you how to use the test light below.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Check out the diagrams (below). Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.
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Thursday, May 19th, 2022 AT 6:27 PM

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