Engine will not stay running

MAGSENTONE

MEMBER
1999 MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE
2.0L
4 CYL
2WD
MANUAL
198,000 MILES

Hello, my starts up right away and sounds solid and then after idling for about 10 minutes or so it just shuts off or when coming to a stop. I had a mobile mechanic check the fuel pressure and he got a spec reading of 50 PSI all the way up to the fuel rail. I have no engine or DTC codes showing. Any valuable info would be greatly appreciated before I take it to the shop. Thank you

8 Replies

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,709 POSTS

Hi,

Was the fuel pressure tested when the engine would stall? If it was and it appeared good, then it sounds like you are losing the ignition spark. Does it start right back up after it stalls?

Do me a favor. Take a look through this link and let me know if anything seems to mirror what you experience. I have a feeling the crankshaft position sensor may be failing. When they start to fail, they are affected by heat.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

Let me know.

Joe

SPONSORED LINKS

Was this

answer

helpful?

Yes

Saturday, February 12th, 2022 AT 9:45 PM

MAGSENTONE

MEMBER
85 POSTS

I believe you are correct. And yes, the fuel pressure was tested after it stalled, and fuel pressure was the same at 50 PSI (spec reading for my vehicle) and once it shuts off at idle you have to wait for the car to cool down before it will start again. My suspicion was telling the same as to it being the Crankshaft position sensor.

Was this

answer

helpful?

Yes

Sunday, February 13th, 2022 AT 9:52 AM

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,709 POSTS

If that is the case, this would be my first suspect. I attached a very basic pic below showing the directions and location of the sensor. Fortunately, it's an easy one to replace. It should be above the oil filter on the side of the engine.

Also, here is a link that shows in general how it's done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

I hope this helps. Let me know if it takes care of the problem.

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.

Image (Click to make bigger)

Was this

answer

helpful?

Yes

Sunday, February 13th, 2022 AT 2:42 PM

MAGSENTONE

MEMBER
85 POSTS

Thank you sir, I will let you know.

Was this

answer

helpful?

Yes

Sunday, February 13th, 2022 AT 9:38 PM

MAGSENTONE

MEMBER
85 POSTS

Hello there guys. So, I removed the tire to access the crank sensor and it was difficult to reach so much so that I couldn't remove the plug connector, so I just had it taken to the shop down the hill from my house. Also, just when I pulled it into the shop the check engine light finally came on. So, after they made repairs, he never really told me it was the crank sensor, but he did change the Throttle position sensor and the wiring pigtail I already placed before. Now the car starts right up and never stalls, however the check engine line came back on after driving it about 30 miles once cleared with the scanner. I did some troubleshooting myself and found that the primary resistance is off, specs call for 0.5 to.06 ohms and I am getting 4 ohms on each side of the middle connector terminal. The secondary terminals where the spark plug wires connect to check out perfect and are within specs which is about 12,760 ohms. Maybe I need to replace the coil? The book says I need to if either the primary or secondary readings are not according to specs listed. Plugs check out great like new and I changed the spark plug wires today. I just wanted to give an update and see what you guys think.