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Car not starting

Tiny
A0302
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 HYUNDAI ACCENT
  • 1.6L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 130,000 MILES
Car is not starting due to accidentally being jump started with leads reversed. Coil was replaced as it fried. New coil is in but no spark and also no injector pulse. Power is going to coil and injection plugs. Crank sensor shows 800 ohms and AC voltage is 1.15 volts when cranked and.017 volts without cranking. All fuses are good. Not sure if crank sensor is the problem? Battery is fully charged. Also, tested crank sensor by tapping on plug terminals with key on and using test light on battery positive to send 12 volts to switch to get a relay click and nothing happened. Could computer be tested at the harness plug and check for voltage to see if it is switching to o volts for signal? Any feedback would be appreciated.
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Thursday, May 3rd, 2018 AT 9:04 PM

55 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,536 POSTS
The crankshaft sensor sounds like it is okay can you run the codes to see what comes up?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Also, the PCM really does not like it when the voltage is reversed. There is a 20 amp fusible link that I would check as well. Here are the engine wiring diagrams so we can do some testing and see how the system works:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Check power and grounds. Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken
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Tuesday, May 15th, 2018 AT 12:07 PM
Tiny
A0302
  • MEMBER
  • 62 POSTS
Thank you Ken. I will go through diagrams and see if I can get a code with my reader. Just wanted to mention I tried a crank sensor but no go. The resistance reading I found for the car is to be.46-.58 kilo ohms for crank sensor. The sensor was.82 for the one I took out. Would this cause issues for this? Also, the crank sensor is only two wires on mine not three as in your diagrams. Not sure if we need a different diagram to trouble shoot electrical?
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Tuesday, May 15th, 2018 AT 4:17 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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I see two wires on the crankshaft sensor. First diagram, sensor on the lower part of the wiring diagram.
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Tuesday, May 15th, 2018 AT 5:54 PM
Tiny
A0302
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  • 62 POSTS
Okay, I managed to get a p0108 code. MAP sensor. Tested sensor plug for power with key on and got the results.
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Thursday, May 17th, 2018 AT 12:05 PM
Tiny
A0302
  • MEMBER
  • 62 POSTS
Sorry wrong pictures. That was for 02 sensor. The plug from map sensor(4pins) 1st pin 5.5 volts 2nd pin 5.0 volts. 3rd pin 5.0 volts. 4th pin 0 volts. Question? The 5 volt reading is 5 volt reference from PCM? Meaning good PCM? Also, in picture ECM would I take black harness cover off to access pin testing for ECM?
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Thursday, May 17th, 2018 AT 12:24 PM
Tiny
A0302
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  • 62 POSTS
The 834 ohms test was on the crank sensor. It is over the amount specified by 200 ohms. Could this be the problem?
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Thursday, May 17th, 2018 AT 12:36 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Yes you do remove the black plastic to run a pin to pin test or just undo the connector. Also, that Ohms reading on the crankshaft sensor does not look good to me. Here is a guide to help you see what you are in for when doing the job:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

Here is the location for others visiting this post.

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken
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Friday, May 18th, 2018 AT 9:40 AM
Tiny
A0302
  • MEMBER
  • 62 POSTS
Okay thanks Ken. I actually replaced crank sensor before hand and new one had 900 ohms or.90 kilo ohms of resistance. Higher than old one. The sensor was easy enough to do on this 2005 accent as long as someone has a 1/4” ratchet and 4-6” extension with a universal joint and 10 mm socket. Did not have to jack up vehicle or take anything off to access it. I had to use a long 15” skinny bar to tap onto the top corner of sensor few times carefully to free it up and then wiggle it to get out. The o-ring was stuck inside and used a small screwdriver to pull out. The second crank sensor is on its way and will let you know how it goes.
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Friday, May 18th, 2018 AT 11:34 AM
Tiny
A0302
  • MEMBER
  • 62 POSTS
Before I checked for computer grounds and positives I found some useful information on a site regarding using cars dlc obd connector for checking ground and ECM harness for shorts. See picture attached. Could be helpful for anyone else as well.
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Friday, May 18th, 2018 AT 11:40 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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Nice! That is good information please let me know with the new sensor.
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Saturday, May 19th, 2018 AT 8:55 AM
Tiny
A0302
  • MEMBER
  • 62 POSTS
Hey ken thanks for your continued help with this. Your guide has helped a lot. The other issue on map sensor I was thinking about voltage readings I got as shown previously. There was two 5 volt readings. And one 5.5 volt reading. Would the.5 volts higher reading cause map sensor code to come up? As I thought there is a resistor or something in that circuit that will not allow higher than 5 volt to come from ECM.
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Sunday, May 20th, 2018 AT 2:03 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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.5 volts should not matter that much. Does the car have spark, fuel and injector pulse?
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Monday, May 21st, 2018 AT 9:42 AM
Tiny
A0302
  • MEMBER
  • 62 POSTS
No spark or injector pulse. Gets fuel and can here pump priming when key on and relay click off when ignition off. You and I suspected the crank position sensor previously. Waiting to put in another one. I was just curious about the MAP sensor code that only came up with vehicle issues. We have the five volt reference reading so PCM health is okay. It has been hard to diagnose with no proper codes showing crank sensor and after putting in a new sensor and finding its defective. I do not have a noid light but used a light tester on battery positive and checking for flashing on control side. To confirm I used a voltmeter to check if signal wire on injector was getting zero volts and did not.
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Monday, May 21st, 2018 AT 10:56 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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It sounds like the crankshaft sensor but can we confirm the camshaft timing is good does the engine sounds normal when cranking over? Does the engine have compression? A bad crankshaft sensor will not trigger a code only a circuit error will show.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers, Ken
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Tuesday, May 22nd, 2018 AT 9:55 AM
Tiny
A0302
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Yes car has good compression. All grounds are good too. Car ran perfect until it was jump started wrong. All sensors have their 5 volt ref and have 0 volts on the signal from PCM. I purchased a new scanner from eBay Foxwell nt301 that has live data stream and sensor checks etc. Hopefully this will narrow it down if new crank sensor is not it. Thanks again Ken.
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Tuesday, May 22nd, 2018 AT 10:26 AM
Tiny
A0302
  • MEMBER
  • 62 POSTS
Sorry Ken my last reply was not accurate as I found an issue with the TPS. I took volt readings on all three pins of TPS harness koeo and have.9 volts 11.7 volts And 2.8 volts. I reviewed the wiring diagrams you sent me on electrical from previous chats and the TPS is to have a 5 volt supply to it and as you can see there is not. See attachments. Also there is a loud humming sound coming from the throttle body where TPS bolts in. I unplugged it and it goes away but hums again when plugged in. Even though there is 5 volt ref to others like map sensor and not to TPS sensor, would that indicate faulty ECM now?
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Tuesday, May 22nd, 2018 AT 9:30 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Yes that is my thinking. If you have good power and ground to the PCM and you have checked all wiring connections it the only thing left.
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Wednesday, May 23rd, 2018 AT 10:44 AM
Tiny
A0302
  • MEMBER
  • 62 POSTS
Hi Ken, so I ended up putting in another crank sensor in and it did nothing but crank once again. The sensor had high ohms.89 kilo ohms. This is the second one now. I decided to put old sensor back in and still just cranks. I checked for pulse at injectors and now it actually have all four pulsing. I checked for pulsing on the coils but nothing. The coils were back probed with paperclip during testing. I used a test light on battery positive and then to signal side of coil plug and nothing. Strange thing is that there is power to both terminals on coil plug when testing with light on battery ground. When I unplug the coil connector there is power at one terminal and not the other, just power on both when harness connector is plugged into coil. Any thoughts?
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Tuesday, May 29th, 2018 AT 11:35 PM
Tiny
A0302
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As you can see both terminals lighting on coil plug and hooked to battery ground and ignition key on.
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Tuesday, May 29th, 2018 AT 11:42 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Both light up when the circuit is not being closed by the ECM. On the negative side of the coil when cranking the engine over does the test light flash?
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Wednesday, May 30th, 2018 AT 10:46 AM

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