There is not much in that circuit other than the ignition switch and the transmission range switch. Go to whichever one is easier to get to and check for twelve volts on the blue/yellow wire. For this type of problem, a test light can be more accurate than an expensive digital voltmeter. If you never see twelve volts on that wire when the ignition switch is in the "crank" position, the switch has a bad contact, that wire has a burned terminal in the connector, or, if you are at the range switch, there is a break in that wire.
If you do find twelve volts on that wire, the range switch is defective or there is a break in the wire after the point you are measuring at.
As is common with a lot of import models, there is no starter relay. The high starter solenoid current is handled by the ignition switch and the range switch. That is typically ten to fifteen amps, so switch failures can be expected.
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Monday, July 31st, 2017 AT 1:11 AM