Car is using a lot of fuel and low engine power

Hi, have not checked for codes, do not have that devices available.
The clutch takes lower to the floor, just noticed that when I apply the accelerator the cars rev go up but the speed takes long to climb. Also, there is a tapping sound that goes faster when the accelerator is press.

Was on my way to go check for a code reader, but it is about 36KM away and the car is not performing too well for my liking to drive it.

Sparkplugs are working, tested it by taking off the sparkplug cap while the car is running and checking for a change in the cars idle. And did the screwdriver to fuel injector check to hear for clicking.
I should let you know that the head gasket was damaged and changed. Before the gasket was changed everything was fine after it was changed it has developed this issues, could it be the timing is just a little out?

No I do not. I cannot find it for i20 gamma 1.4. I have tried working off of videos, as it shows on the Kia and i30. Lined up the exhaust gear with the intake gear, and then lined up the gear for the pistons on the engine block. Using the small dot on each of the gears. The car was out of timing before I did this and sounded and idled better after the following the videos. I am waiting for a guy to fetch the car and take it to a buddy that has a diagnostic tool to check for codes. But I do not know when that will be. It will take seven days for the obd2 tool to come if I buy it as I have to get it online. But then I will have to go back to work and will have no time for the car.

Hi, MHPAUTOS,
i have three error codes
P1693, P1696 And P0016.

Device showed:
P1693 - Unknown.
P1696 - Unknown.
And P0016 - Crankshaft position/camshaft position correction bank 1 sensor A.

The car has a misfire, I have told the mechanic to come and correct the timing, but he does not have the specification for my car.

Could you let me know what the other two error codes are please?

My car I bought used, a few months after I bought it the key pin was damaged, so the key and the fob was separated from each other. I had it repaired by locksmith but that same day the ignition got stuck in the on position I could not turn the car on or off. Had to kick start it to drive it back home and pull a fuse out while the car was running to turn off the car then disconnect the battery. A guy took the ignition apart and cleaned it and it has been working since that time. Sometimes the immobilizer light flickers but I think it is because of the key cover I have as it was not doing it before I put the cover on. I just turn key from ignition on to off and back on and it works.

I am waiting for the mechanic to come and redo the timing chain. I think the bottom gear is not lined up with the two top gears. Thanks for all the help.

The intake cam was off by 1 tick. Car has better acceleration. There is a ticking sound, the ticking gets faster with acceleration. Not sure if it was there or not. I know the oil pump has a ticking sound but it goes away as engine warms up.

It has new oil filter, new air filter, new oil, new coolant, new gaskets (intake, exhaust, cylinder head, spark plugs and cylinder head cover), new spark plugs.
These things were changed all on the same day (2weeks ago)

Thanks. I will get a other car and see if it has the same sound. If it is different I will need to have someone with Hyundai Knowledge to look at it. As I cant find any spec on this car.

Hi, so I took my car to a different mechanic last weekend. He found that the heat shield covering the exhaust output on the engine isnt tied down correctly and causing some random rattling especially when pulling away and gear changes. There is still ticking coming from the engine, he says the timing sounds right and it might be the lifters.

I have noticed 2 days ago that although the car sounds fine apart from the ticking and revs are fine. When I am driving and change into 3rd there is some hesitation.
Also when at idle 750 rpm the rev needle is constant, if increase the revs to 2k it stays constant. But when its at about 1300 rpm the needle fluctuates as if there is a misfire, it goes from 1300 drops to just above 1k and starts fluctuating. So when I am driving normally when I change to 3rd gear the car feels like it slows down and then slowly picks up acceleration.
If I drive my car hard with high rpm gear changes I dont feel the hesitation and sluggishness. But the ticking never goes away.

I have the obd2 tool in my car now but I think the misfire is too low for the ecu to throw an error code. Could the timing still be out by a little? Which is causing the ticking and misfire?

If you guys think it is the timing. I will have to get someone else to redo the timing and hope nothing got damage during the time ive been driving it and told it is fine.