Car shuts off while driving

VANFOSSAN4

MEMBER
1992 HONDA ACCORD
2.2L
4 CYL
MANUAL
114,000 MILES

While I am driving my car it shuts off. I cannot recreate the problem at will. The CE light comes on, then the oil light and the battery light come on at the same time and the car shuts off. I have changed out the main relay, but the problem continues. Also had my car towed to an automotive shop and they could find no problem.
Not sure if this is related, but there has been a problem with the clock, it tends to return to default time every time you turn the car off. I did notice that when I changed the main relay the clock seemed to be staying at the correct time. I adjusted the time this morning to the correct time, and when the car shut off, the clock had gone back to default. Do not know if this is related. (Possibly electrical?) I had the idea that the car only shut off when it was really hot outside, but this morning, it was very cool outside not hot at all. Just a side note, there have been (two) instances when my odometer and speedometer are not working. (Both times it was very very hot outside.) Not sure if this is related either. Purchased this car last year with 112,200 miles on it at. Did a tune up and changed the oil, and it has been running great up until now. Have not been on the freeway when this happens, probably because I have not been on the freeway since it started happening. (Thank goodness) Shuts off when I am going anywhere from twenty five to forty mph. Does not stall during shifting. Tow truck driver thought I stalled the car during shifting. I have been driving manual transmission forever. I just wanted to add, if I wait about five to ten minutes, the car starts right back up.

7 Replies

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,747 POSTS

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.com.

Since you have to wait a period of time until it restarts, I need you to do a check. When it refuses to restart, see if it will start a couple seconds if you use starting fluid. If it does, then the problem is fuel related. If it still does not start, then it is ignition related. Here are two links that explain how to properly check for spark and fuel. However, since you will most likely be driving when this happens, I suggested the starting fluid.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

If you can determine which is not working when this happens, we can focus on that specific system and determine the cause. Also, you may want to check for trouble codes.

On OBD1 Honda vehicles, there is a diagnostic port and a two-pin connector located under the passenger-side dashboard. To check for codes, you will need to insert a jumper wire or a paper clip from one pin to the other in the two-pin connector. Once you do that, turn the key on. The check engine light will begin flashing. The codes are two digit numbers. Count how many flashes, there will be a pause, and then it will flash again. Count the second set of flashes for the second number of the code. If you can do that, let me know what you find.

Take care and let me know if you have other questions.

Joe

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Tuesday, June 12th, 2018 AT 8:41 PM

VANFOSSAN4

MEMBER
4 POSTS

Thank you Joe for your quick response and your help. I had to take it to a mechanic, but I am worried he might be trying to take advantage of me. He says he wants to put in a fuel pump and assembly. He is having a hard time finding it and says it will cost around $500.00 for the part (they have discontinued making that Honda part. Honda part #1404-SM4-A30). He also says that the fuel pressure is 10psi. Could that be possible at all. Would my car not be running really rough if that was the case? My car does not even sputter when it turns off. I am just afraid if he replaces the fuel pump, what if the old one is bad and the car continues to shut off? Is it a dumb question to ask him just to replace the fuel pump and not the whole assembly?

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Friday, June 15th, 2018 AT 9:44 AM

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,747 POSTS

Hi again: I have to be honest, the pump is not odd. Call any parts store. They start around $100.00. As far as the labor, it calls for 1.4 hours. Multiply his labor rate by 1.4 and that will tell you what labor should cost. As far as the pump, they do mark them up. But how much I cannot say. Call around to local parts stores to get an idea of cost. As far as the pump, if it is dropping to 10 psi, it needs replaced. Here are the specifications of a good one for your review:

SPECIFICATIONS
FUEL PRESSURE
Regulated [1] 220 - 270 kPa (30 - 38 psi)
Unregulated [2] 280 - 330 kPa (40 - 47 psi)
[1] Measured with vacuum hose connected to pressure regulator.
[2] Measured with vacuum hose disconnected from pressure regulator.

Please feel free to let me know if you have other questions or need help with anything.

Take care,
Joe

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Saturday, June 16th, 2018 AT 8:13 PM

VANFOSSAN4

MEMBER
4 POSTS

Good Afternoon Joe,

Hope all is well with you! My fuel pump was replaced and the car still shuts off. The shop wants to replace my "main relay". They know I already replace it with a Honda replacement part, but they are saying it may be bad. This does not sound right to me.

Thanks in advance for anything you can tell me!

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Tuesday, July 24th, 2018 AT 11:57 AM

KEN L

MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
47,643 POSTS

These cars have problems with the distributor going out. Can you remove the distributor cap and look for rust colored dust? which is the sign the unit is going out. They have them on Amazon for $118.00.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CKDJO2/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=2carprcom-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B000CKDJO2&linkId=5a38199444dd0ff7cf70eb23ba643c8a

I would start here.

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken