Car shut off while driving, now cranks but will not start

Tiny
ZACHBK
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 1.6L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 140,000 MILES
Hello, first time here. I was driving my car the other day, running fine no issues, and parked it and left it running while I ran inside. I came back out five minutes later put it in reverse and made it about five feet and the car shut off. Cranked and cranked but no start.

I checked for spark and there was none. I only checked one plug. Also pulled the back seat and checked fuel pump for power and it does have power running to it. Cranked engine over again and can not hear fuel pump running. I have pulled the connectors from the coil packs to check continuity And they both have power going to them. It looks that the coil packs are controlled from the ECM, since I do not see a distributor. So I am guessing the ECM is at fault. And have a used one on order. I have read that they do not need to be reprogrammed if you get matching part numbers. Can you confirm this. And also am I correct on the ECM going bad, or have I missed some steps. Also the fuse for the ECM is good.
Wednesday, November 14th, 2018 AT 9:18 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,640 POSTS
Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.com

Since you lost spark, I think there is a better chance the crankshaft position sensor may have failed.

Take a look at this link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

What I suggest is this. Get your hands on a live data scanner. Often times, parts stores will rent one to you. Plug the scanner is and go to live data, RPM. Crank the engine and check if the RPM's increase. If there is no signal from the sensor, you will not get an RPM signal. With that in mind, chances are the sensor has failed, is out of adjustment, or even a piece of dirt getting in it can cause this. If you can confirm this, I would start with the sensor.

Here is a general link that shows how to replace a crankshaft sensor:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

Here are directions for testing the sensor itself. It requires the use of a volt meter/multi meter. Here is a link that shows how that is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

How to test wiring:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Here are the directions for testing the sensor:
_______________________________________________________________
RESISTANCE INSPECTION
1. Disconnect the CKP sensor connector. See picture 3

2. Measure the resistance between CKP sensor terminals A and B using an ohmmeter.

Specification: Approx. 550 Ohm

- If not as specified, replace the CKP sensor.
_______________________________________________-

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle for replacing one. The attached picture correlates with the directions.

CRANKSHAFT POSITION (CKP) SENSOR REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
CAUTION: When foreign material such as an iron chip is on the CKP sensor, it can cause abnormal output from the sensor because of flux turbulence and adversely affect the engine control. Be sure there is no foreign material on the CKP sensor when replacing.

1. Disconnect the CKP sensor connector.
2. Remove the undercover.
3. Remove the CKP sensor installation bolt.
4. Install in the reverse order of removal.

Tightening torque
7.9 - 10.7 Nm (80 - 110 kg.cm, 69.5 - 95.4 in.lb)

5. Reconnect the CKP sensor connector.

CAUTION: Do not forcefully pull the wiring harness of the CKP sensor. Doing so will break the harness.

6. Adjust the air gap. (Refer to CRANKSHAFT POSITION (CKP) SENSOR ADJUSTMENT.)
See: Crankshaft Position Sensor > Adjustments

_________________________

Here are the directions for adjustment of air gap.

Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Adjustment
CRANKSHAFT POSITION (CKP) SENSOR ADJUSTMENT

1. Loosen the CKP sensor installation bolt.

2. While moving the CKP sensor, adjust the air gap between the CKP sensor and the plate teeth on the plate using a feeler gauge.
- If not adjusted within specification, replace the plate behind the crankshaft pulley or CKP sensor.

Specification: 0.5 - 1.5 mm (0.020 - 0.059 in)

3. Tighten the CKP sensor installation bolt.

Tightening torque
7.9 - 10.7 Nm (80 - 110 kg.cm, 69.5 - 95.4 in.lb)

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:17 PM
Tiny
ZACHBK
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Awesome! Thanks for the detailed answer just what I was looking for! I will be checking that sensor out tomorrow and let you know what I find out. The ohms for the sensor are to read five hundred and fifty? That seems off just by reading it but I will be checking it tomorrow any way.
Also, for the ECM question do they need to be reprogrammed if you find matching part numbers?
I had unplugged the ECM and inspected to the board to see if anything looked out of place or not correct, now I am worried that disconnecting it and now reconnecting it might make my life a little harder by possibly locking the car into some sort of safety mode. Would this be possible?
And to go with your answer about using a scan tool with live data, I had failed to mention that I hooked my personal one up and was unable to connect to the vehicle. I borrowed a friends and had the same problem. Before all this happened I had to have the engine running to connect to the vehicle to read engine codes.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:17 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,640 POSTS
Welcome back:
If you are using the same ECM, there should not be an issue with disconnecting it. Just make sure to reconnect it prior to reconnecting the battery.

As far as the scanner issue, check the DLC wiring to make sure none of the pins are pushed in or damaged.

Let me know if you need anything,

Take care,
Joe
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:17 PM
Tiny
ZACHBK
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Hello again, wanted to let you know that I have the vehicle running again. Your help was greatly appreciated! To let you know the ckp sensor passed all the tests which let me to start from scratch and had found out that I had over looked the “INJ OR FIP” 30 amp fuse. This was the cause of my problems as I had replaced it and the vehicle started right up. Any chance you could give me information on what that fuse is for and possible causes of it failing?
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:17 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,640 POSTS
That is good news. Honestly, the fuse may have been old. However, it powers the main relay and transmission. I attached a section of the schematic for you to see. Other than that, a bad ground, the relay is going bad, or a short.

Let me know if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:17 PM

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