Car cranks when on operating temperature

Okay. We are missing something because all you need to start the engine is fuel, spark, and compression. I suspect the fuel pressure is low when it is hot. Let's check the fuel pressure when this is happening. Here is a guide that will help with this:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Even though you hear the pump and injectors clicking, we don't know if they are actually supplying enough fuel so let's start with this and go from there.

If this checks out then here is a guide that will take us through the rest of this:

https://youtu.be/dCjmRL3p4Cs

Yes. Normally if it doesn't fire on starter fluid then it is not a fuel issue. However, I am wondering if the plugs are fouled at this point. You may have too much fuel pointing to a high pressure issue or even a leaking injector. So we still need to do the fuel pressure but we need to do it first thing in the morning with the vehicle does start and then keep it on there while it starts to stall and see what it is doing. Thanks

Just to be clear that was when this issue was happening? So you drove it around and got it hot and then it was not starting and this is when you checked those PSI?

If so, they are perfect so this is not a pump issue.

If that is the case does this do this every time? So it cranks and starts fine cold but as soon as it gets hot it ends up shutting off and does not restart until it gets cold again?

There is normally some drop in pressure as you are opening the injectors longer as you accelerate but it should not sputter and drop more then a pound or two but it should recover quickly.

Have you replace the fuel pump? I thought you said that you did but I didn't see it. I may be thinking of a different vehicle so if you have not, I would replace that at this point and go from there.

You can do that. The only thing that gives me pause is that you get another one that is faulty and we think it is not the issue because the chances of getting another is slim. However, it is still a chance.

However, on the other hand, if you get one from a salvage yard and it works, then just leave it in there until that one fails. No need to buy a new one if the vehicle is working.

The only other thing that I can think would cause this at this point is the EGR is opening and sticking causing the engine to run rich and stall then it will not start again until it cools down.

I attached the testing that we need to run through in order to figure this out.

Yes. A video would be great. Also, your vehicle does have an EGR. The DX is just a trim package and doesn't alter any major engine components.

That does help. Clearly the issue only happens when the engine is up to operating temp as you mention. So that means what happens when it is hot vs not? The main thing is it switches from open to closed loop. That means when it gets hot the ECM starts using the sensor data to adjust the fuel and ignition.

If the o2 sensors are not accurate then it could cause performance issues resulting in a stalled engine.

Next we need to monitor the o2 sensor information with a scan tool if you have one. That will help confirm this.

Also, the purge valve is not opened until the engine is at almost 170 degrees. So if the ECM is opening the purge and it is sticking open once open, it will flood the engine and it will stall and not restart until the fuel evaporates.

Less likely could be a valve adjustment issue so was there any recent work done to the engine and this issue started afterwards?

Are you able to keep the engine running by giving it more throttle?

Lastly, let's run some injector cleaner through the engine. If the injector(s) are hanging open then that will flood the engine as well.