Car continues to overheat, even after replacing the engine (again)?

Tiny
KATIEISREBEL
  • MEMBER
  • 2012 FORD FOCUS
  • 2.0L
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150,000 MILES
My friend is the second owner of this car and has had it for about 8 years or so. Within this time, he has replaced the engine twice now (the most recent time being only a few months ago). This car has had its regular maintenance and has only ever been to a Ford dealership for any type of mechanical situation (including oil changes).
The first time the engine was replaced, it was because the original one blew the head gasket - and it was replaced with a brand-new engine (not rebuilt or used). About a year later the car started overheating again. It never actually reached the point of the gauge hitting red (just close to) because both of us always have one eye on that gauge while driving - like most anyone who has ever had to go through such an experience before! It didn't occur every time the car was driven, only once in a while. He would keep a jug of water in the car at all times for such occasions- except it usually wasn't necessary 99% of the time (which is totally weird!) Let me explain. So, when the gauge would start to show it was getting hotter than usual (like obviously so, not just a slight rise but continuous rise) we would pull over immediately and shut the car off. Automatically the first thing to check is the water/coolant level, so of course we would -- most of the time there would be little to no water in the reservoir when first checked, so the logical thing is to add water. But when you turn the cap just a little bit, suddenly water would start to bubble up and start to fill the reservoir and we would retighten the cap without adding more water. When you start the car again, the temperature would return to normal and be fine for a rather extended period of time. It was very rare that water would actually have to be added when this would happen. And things went on like this for a few years -- then it started happening more often (both the situation and having to add water when it happened). Then the last time it was driven prior to having the next engine put in, I was driving it and it started to get hot, so I pulled over and it needed water, so I added some (a whole gallon). About a mile down the road, it started to get hot again, so I pulled over and saw no water again, so I added more. It seemed odd to me that it was taking a whole other gallon, so I got down and looked to make sure nothing was coming out anywhere under the car or anything, and it wasn't. Needless to say, the water had to be going somewhere and it wasn't anywhere visible.
So, it went back to the ford dealership and essentially had to have another motor put in. We got it back like maybe 4 months ago (if that) and about 3 weeks ago it started to overheat already! He says he just has to 'burp it' (loosen the reservoir cap then tighten it again) and it's back to normal. But this is happening like every other time it's driven and it's not even for a long distance!
My guess is it's got to be a vacuum issue or something of the like, perhaps? Something is preventing the water from circulating properly, obviously - and it's not the thermostat. I am kind of at a loss so any ideas or suggestions or even theories would be very helpful.
Thank you for your time.
Sunday, June 16th, 2024 AT 1:15 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Hi,

Wow, that is a lot to deal with. As far as removing the radiator cap is concerned, don't do it when the engine is hot. Also, are you certain the thermostat is good?

Next, have you scanned the computer for relevant codes? If not, scan the can-bus to see if there are codes that may point us in the right direction.

Here is a link showing how that is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/can-scan-controller-area-network-easy

If you are losing coolant and there are no leaks, either it is being burned in the combustion chamber or it is mixing in with the engine oil.

Take a look at this link and see if anything mirrors what you are seeing:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/recognizing-the-symptoms-understanding-a-blown-head-gasket-in-your-vehicle

I have a few more questions. First, when the temperature goes up (hot), do the radiator cooling fans turn on? Also, does it overheat at highway speed, or does it seem limited to in town driving (stop and go)? One final question. Are you using coolant or water in the system?

Let me know.

Joe
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Sunday, June 16th, 2024 AT 7:43 PM
Tiny
KATIEISREBEL
  • MEMBER
  • 23 POSTS
It doesn't seem to discriminate between Highway or stop and go. Yes, the cooling fans turn on. And most of the time coolant is being used. The only time straight water was being added was when water was disappearing, and it was starting to overheat right before this last engine replacement.
Strangely the check engine light has never come on except for briefly right before this last time we replaced the engine when the head gasket blew. But even that didn't happen until well past the time I'm sure that the head gasket went, with the light only coming on within the last like 2 miles before I got back to the house. But I will still maybe check out to see if there's any codes present regardless.
It just completely blows my mind because he drives like a grandpa and he mostly does everything that is required as far as regular maintenance, and this car hasn't even hit close to 200,000 miles yet and it's on its third engine! Just seems like there is something that is being overlooked.
I will check into the links that you provided and get back to you and we can go from there, I guess. Thank you for your time.
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Monday, June 17th, 2024 AT 1:03 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Hi,

Yes, let me know if the links help at all. Additionally, don't laugh when the engine overheats, check to make sure the radiator (specifically the bottom one) isn't collapsing and restricting flow.

Let me know.

Joe
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Monday, June 17th, 2024 AT 7:41 PM
Tiny
KATIEISREBEL
  • MEMBER
  • 23 POSTS
It doesn't look like any of the radiator hoses are collapsing at all when the car starts overheating. And apparently the thermostat was not something the dealership mechanics had thought to check during any of the latest visits (including both times they decided it was the engine that needed replacing! WTF!). So, I guess that should be first on my list. Are you able to provide any info for me about where it's located in this vehicle and how to replace it myself? I hear rumors that it can be complicated with this kind of car.
Thank you for your time! You all have always been awesome!
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Wednesday, July 10th, 2024 AT 8:28 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Hi,

First, you are very welcome. I just hope I help. LOL

As far as replacing it, the only difficult part is that it is done from under the vehicle on this car. As far as precautions, disconnect the negative battery terminal before you start and cover the alternator to prevent coolant from getting to it.

I attached the directions below from my manual. Take a look and let me know if you have questions. Also, here is a link that explains in general how it's done. It will give you an idea as to what you will be doing.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-thermostat

Note: The directions below indicate the removal of the thermostat housing. Please confirm with the local parts store if the thermostat is integral to the housing. If that is the case, they will be replaced as a unit. Here is the OEM part number so you have a reference. Also, if you go to Google, type Ford part CP9Z8592G and see where you can get the best price. According to my manual, it's a 90.00 part, but that is an OEM part price. I bet you can get it from a parts store or even Amazon for less.

Also, at the end of the directions, I included the refill procedure. When you start refilling the system, go slow so it has a chance to purge air. Once it remains at the full mark, start with the directions. They start at number 8 because the prior steps were for draining and how to mix the coolant based on extreme conditions. The very last pic shows the coolant type needed. There are other manufacturers that make it, so once again, get the best price. One last thought. Coolant should be 50% coolant and 50% water. Pay attention when you purchase it. You can purchase it already diluted or not. If the system is completely empty, it will hold 6.8 quarts (a little over a gallon and a half).

Let me know if this helps.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below. Also, make sure the neg battery terminal is disconnected prior to starting. You will be right near the alternator and don't want to cause a short.
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Wednesday, July 10th, 2024 AT 7:16 PM

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