Can I change the upstream o2 sensor without replacing the converter gasket?

Wd 40 and silicone out of my pb. Saw a couple videos gonna see what I can do with small screwdriver and dentist pic set. Thanks knowing the clip isn't important makes me feel better as you see I've mangled it a bit.

Hello DAVENOOB,

Yes, I always mangle them too. The important thing is to not break the connector. The red lock is optional, lol.

Plastic will oxidize just like metal. So, when that happens it will swell and that's why it is so hard to get out. It is actually bigger than it was when it went in.

I try to save them myself but most of the time they end up like that because honestly it is a crappy design.

Thank you,
Brendon

I can't get this out or in red thing will not move, darn it.

Which way is this red clip supposed to move? The videos look different so I can't get the clip to move any direction.

Hey DAVENOOB,

It will come out straight back towards the wires.

Thank you,
Brendon

Never mind got it testing now.

Thanks. I thought that but wasn't giving either way finally got a little slip now it's on!

Hello DAVENOOB,

Awesome! Nice job! But now next time you have to deal with one you know.

So now that you are testing let me know what you get on that wire for voltage.

Thank you,
Brendon

So, I don't know if I'm not getting good ground but no change in meter for either can't stick the probe in the plug. Key is on engine off.

Hey DAVENOOB,

You don't want to stick the lead into the plug because it will push it apart and will never make a good connection again. All you need to do is touch it. Sounds like a ground issue. Try keeping the RED lead on the connector and move around and find a clean part on the body or frame. Even the brakes can be a ground. Anything that is close by, clean of rust. You can also take a wire wheel on a drill and clean a spot. The entire car for the most part should be a sufficient ground. But it has to be bare metal or close to it or you won't get a good enough connection, like you said. Just about everything metal on the body and frame should be a good enough ground as long as there isn't any rust.

Rust will cause resistance or ohms. Ohms/resistance reduces voltage. So, we want a nice clean area.

Do you have a drill and drill bits?

Thank you,
Brendon

Yes I do.

Hey DAVENOOB,

If you use a drill bit and drill just enough to make a mark in the frame, it will clean a spot for you to have a good ground, whipping rust and anything else in its path out of the way quickly. You don't need a hole, just use it to make a clean mark on the frame. Don't use on brakes or anything like that. Use it for the chassis.

Thank you,
Brendon

Okay, ground 1 positive, I couldn't get a steady read from but seemed to be jumping between 8-11 the best I can tell.

Hey DAVENOOB,

Are you on the red wire with white stripe? If so, try to get a consistent reading. If you are sure, touch the other wire with the red lead and see what you get. Try cycling the key from on-off-on, with engine off. The EVAP test will only last for so long. If it times out, you might get a false reading. But when you cycle the key, it should restart the self-test.

Also how do the connector and wiring look? Any green stuff anywhere, like a greenish blue powdery substance or a wire or at the connector? Or a wire that looks bent more than it should be.

Thank you,
Brendon

No wires all look good checked connections. Forgot I only gave a short period of time from turning key on to test that could be huge issue. How long before it resets?

Can't get anything steady even with girl turning key maybe I need better meter.

So, I think need a meter with better connections. Even on the battery terminals I have to scratch into ground pole for reading wouldn't ground to any other part of engine with positive on battery pole. You think maybe better meter with auto ranging night have more sensitive probes? Going and buying new one not an issue I already have the replacement solenoid ready to go! Of course want to make sure is getting power.

Hello DAVENOOB,

Unfortunately, I don't have any information on how long before the self-tests ends. The meter seems like it isn't very useful. Can you get a steady reading at the battery?

Sounds to me like your close. If you weren't that would indicate a wiring problem. I would say to put a new valve in it. Sounds like you are getting voltage back there, but it is all over the place could be the ground or an issue with the wiring.

95% of the time it is the valve. Could also be a clogged evap canister.

If the wiring looks good, no corrosion or sharp bends then I would get an A/C Delco evap vent valve solenoid. Should be around $30-$40. I don't believe in replacing parts until they are tested but we have tested for the most part and seems like the valve is junk. There is other test we can do but you will need a vacuum pump with gauge which is way more expensive than just getting the new valve. Given the age of the vehicle and the location, I think in the interest of saving money getting a new valve is the best option at this point.

You can get it from the autoparts store. Make sure to get either A/C Delco or Delphi.

If it where my vehicle, this is what I would do. After 10 years it could probably use one anyway.

Thank you,
Brendon

Hey DAVENOOB,

The better meters will have better leads. You get what you pay for whether it is tools or parts.

If you have a replacement valve, I would put it in and have the code cleared at AutoZone and see if it comes back and keep an eye on the symptoms and see if anything changes.

Thank you,
Brendon

Gotcha, thanks!

Okay. So, have a good night, I'm going to call it for now. Getting up early and replacing part will update then. Thanks again for all your help! Hope you have a good night.

Hello DAVENOOB,

Ok sounds good and you're welcome, happy to help! Hope you have a good night as well!

Thank you,
Brendon

Okay, so the part change went flawlessly easy once clip was off, lol. I went on a test drive; it seems to be so much better but I didn't get to go up hill or higher speeds that's on Tuesday. Got to Home Depot and car was hot. It's never hot because of aux fan get outside water everywhere. The radiator overflow hose was split, and the union gave out is it supposed to be one piece do you know? AutoZone and napa didn't know. Also do you know what this part is? No one can identify best I got is fresh air intake or bypass? The last pic is the overflow hose after union rotted away.

Thanks so much! Just to prove I stick to my word.

Hi,

Thank you for the update and pic. It is truly appreciated.

Please feel free to come back anytime in the future. You are always welcome.

Take care,

Joe