Camshaft sensor location I need to replace it

Hello,

I have included the information that you requested in the diagrams down below. I hope that this helps. Please get back to us with how everything turns out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

I don't know if you need them, but here are the directions for replacing the sensor:

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Right Cylinder head
REMOVAL
The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) on this engine is bolted to the front/top of the right cylinder head.

Pic 1

It is easier to remove/install sensor from under vehicle.
1. Raise and support vehicle.
2. Disconnect electrical connector at CMP sensor.
3. Remove sensor mounting bolt.
4. Carefully pry sensor from cylinder head in a rocking action with two small screwdrivers. This engine is equipped with a sensor spacer shim. If equipped, this shim will be located at sensor bolt hole between cylinder head and sensor mounting tang (TSB W08-18-00). Save this shim for sensor installation.
5. Check condition of sensor O-ring.

INSTALLATION
The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) on this engine is bolted to the front/top of the right cylinder head.
1. Clean out machined hole in cylinder head.
2. Apply a small amount of engine oil to sensor O-ring.
3. Install sensor into cylinder head with a slight rocking action. Do not twist sensor into position as damage to O-ring may result.

CAUTION: Before tightening sensor mounting bolt, be sure sensor is completely flush to cylinder head. If sensor is not flush, damage to sensor mounting tang may result.

4. Install mounting bolt and tighten to 12 Nm (106 in. Lbs.) Torque.
5. Connect electrical connector to sensor.
6. Lower vehicle.

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Take care,
Joe

It is a squeeze clip type lock. So there is a spot to squeeze the connector to unlock it and then pull it off the sensor. Here is the camshaft sensor location so you can change it out. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.

Test orange wire for 5 volts, if volts less than 4.5 repair open in circuit.

3. Turn ignition off. Ensure CMP sensor connector is still disconnected. Using an ohmmeter,  check resistance between CMP sensor connector,  5 volt supply circuit (Orange wire) and signal circuit (Tan/Yellow wire).
If resistance is 5 ohms or more,  go to next step. If resistance is less than 5 ohms,  repair 5 volt supply circuit for short to signal circuit. Perform TEST VER 5A.
4. Ensure ignition is off. Ensure CMP sensor connector is still disconnected. Turn ignition on,  with engine off. Using a voltmeter,  check voltage on CMP sensor connector,  signal circuit (Tan/Yellow wire). If voltage is
less than 4.5 volts,  go to next step. If voltage is 4.5 5.5 volts,  go to step 9). If voltage is more than 5.5 volts,  repair signal circuit for short to voltage. Perform TEST VER 5A.
5. Turn ignition off. Ensure CMP sensor connector is still disconnected. Disconnect PCM connectors. PCM is located in engine compartment. See PCM LOCATION table under SYSTEM DIAGNOSTICS. Clean
and/or repair connectors as necessary. Using an ohmmeter,  check resistance of CMP sensor signal circuit (Tan/Yellow wire) between CMP sensor connector and PCM. If resistance is less than 5 ohms,  go to next
step. If resistance is 5 ohms or more,  repair open signal circuit. Perform TEST VER 5A.
6. Turn ignition off. Ensure CMP sensor and PCM connectors are still disconnected. Using ohmmeter,  check resistance between ground and CMP sensor connector,  signal circuit (Tan/Yellow wire). If resistance is 5
ohms or more,  go to next step. If resistance is less than 5 ohms,  repair signal circuit for short to ground. Perform TEST VER 5A.
7. Ensure ignition is off. Ensure CMP sensor and PCM connectors are still disconnected. Using ohmmeter,  check resistance between CMP sensor connector,  signal circuit (Tan/Yellow wire) and sensor ground
circuit (Black/Light Blue wire). If resistance is 5 ohms or more,  go to next step. If resistance is less than 5 ohms,  repair signal circuit for short to sensor ground circuit. Perform TEST VER 5A.
8. At this time,  PCM is assumed to be defective. Replace PCM. Perform TEST VER 5A.
9. Ensure ignition is off. Ensure CMP sensor connector is still disconnected. Using an ohmmeter,  check resistance between ground and CMP sensor connector,  sensor ground circuit (Black/Light Blue wire). If
resistance is less than 5 ohms,  go to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or more,  go to step 12).
10. Ensure ignition is off. Ensure CMP sensor connector is still disconnected. Remove CMP sensor. See Fig. 28 or Fig. 29Â. Inspect tone wheel/flexplate for physical damage. Ensure tone wheel/flexplate rotates when
engine is cranked. If tone wheel/flexplate is okay,  go to next step. If tone wheel/flexplate is damaged,  repair or replace as necessary.
11. At this time,  CMP sensor is assumed to be defective. Replace CMP sensor. Perform TEST VER 5A.
12. Turn ignition off. Ensure CMP sensor connector is still disconnected. Disconnect PCM connectors. PCM is located in engine compartment. See PCM LOCATION table under SYSTEM DIAGNOSTICS. Clean
and/or repair connectors as necessary. Using an ohmmeter,  check resistance of CMP sensor ground circuit (Black/Light Blue wire) between CMP sensor connector and PCM. If resistance is less than 5 ohms,  go
to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or more,  repair open sensor ground circuit. Perform TEST VER 5A.
13. At this time,  PCM is assumed to be defective. Replace PCM. Perform TEST VER 5A.
Test ver 5a is using a labscope so if you can't get it rnning by this time tow to a repair shop it still may not be your pcm. Also check for blown fusesin power dist box and check fuse 19 and 6 as well as automatic shutdown relay as that may be the problem as well.

Schm, ash, also make sure the connectors are clean and firmly seated on the sensors. Make sure the sensors are properly gapped. Using the Ohm meter, clip the leads to the sensor and crank the engine, while watching the meter. Does resistance go to zero?

The cam sensor is mounted to the top of the right cylinder head. See pic attached.

The crank sensor is mounted on the engine block above the starter. See pic attached.

The engine won't run with a bad camshaft position sensor so there's no point in changing it, especially since no diagnostic tests pointed to that. Have you checked the diagnostic fault codes? Was the battery recently disconnected or run dead? When does this stalling occur, at any speed or just at idle such as when approaching a stop sign? Will the engine restart right away or does it have to cool down first for an hour?

Crankshaft position sensor is a common cause when they get warm. The new one must have a spacer on the end to properly set the air gap or that too can cause intermittent stalling. New sensors use either a thick paper spacer stuck to the end, or they will have a thin plastic rib molded to the end. If you reinstall a used sensor with the rib, you are to cut the remaining part of the rib off and use a new paper spacer.

To verify the stalling is related to these sensors, while it still won't restart, measure the voltage on the small wire feeding the ignition coil or any injector. I think it's dark green / orange. You should see 12 volts there for just one second when you turn on the ignition switch, but what's important is that voltage must come back during engine cranking.

The sensor ground wires always go to ground through the Engine Computer so current can be monitored. You should find 0.2 volts on it. There will always be four ground wires on the computer. Two are sensor grounds and two are power grounds. By "power" grounds they mean high-power stuff like injectors and ignition coils that are pulsed on and off. If there is the slightest bit of resistance in those wires there will be a voltage drop each time one of those things fires. Those voltage drops are insignificant for those circuits but they would seriously interfere with the tiny changes in sensor voltage signals. That's why the low-power and highly precise sensors use their own ground wires.

I'm trying to find a service manual for your vehicle but not having any luck so far. The best I can tell you right now is to look for the same color wire you're tracing at the computer, then do the resistance check from that terminal in the computer's connector to the sensors. On most other Chrysler products that was a black wire with a blue tracer.

To add to the misery I'm heading on a road trip to Detroit, Ohio, and Indianapolis tonight and will be gone two or three days. I'll check on your progress when I get back. In the meantime I'll keep looking for a service manual. If you can find a copy of the manufacturer's manual, that will show where each splice is located on a drawing. The guys at the Chrysler dealership I used to work at were real happy to find that and make photocopies of the relevant pages for people, and they had the dealership owner's blessings to do that. If you pursue that, look for a Jeep dealership. We didn't have the Jeep franchise so we didn't have service manuals specific to them.

I never needed to find the grounds but I'm pretty sure the wires come out of the harness and are bolted to the inner fender near the head light or firewall.