2014 Hyundai Santa Fe C1513 Brake Switch Fix

Those switches are failure prone so it could be a bad switch, or it could be the plastic pad that moves the switch, which pushes through the tap on the brake pedal. If the plastic bumper is gone you can usually use one of the push type "Christmas tree" fasteners sold to hold body panels in place. Just buy one that just pushes through the hole.
The switch is part number 938103S700. To replace it you remove the panel under the steering column by removing the screws shown. Then look on the top of the brake lever to find the switch. On the switch is a lock that you pull down, now rotate the switch 45 degrees so the locking threads release, and the switch can be pulled out. Unplug the connector. Now take the new switch and connect the wiring harness to it, then slip it into place in reverse of the old switch. Hold the brake pedal up and push the switch in until it bottoms out on the bumper on the pedal.
Let go of the pedal, if it stays up and the switch doesn't turn on the brake lights push the pedal and let it return, verify that the brake lights only come on when the pedal is pushed down and go off when it is up. Now rotate the switch counterclockwise to lock it in place and push the lock back into place.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kNdQ2ptPNMg

What do I do as far as the code C1513 stored in the computer which only was shown on the scanner at AutoZone and not my lesser quality OBDII scanner which had no powertrain DTCs or check engine light on. Disconnect the battery before changing the switch then re connect the battery after I replace the switch?

Once the switch tests good by the PCM it will count drive cycles and erase the code after a number of drive cycles. No reason to worry about it.

Okay, thank you. I will be looking at the switch today and I will give you an update on what I found/did.

I took a look at the switch and pedal area. I discovered that the pad that is supposed to be on the pedal was missing, and someone had put a metal screw of some sort in its place which was in the hole loosely. I am going to replace the pad of course. I am going to get the proper pad from the dealer. After I put the pad in, I am planning to replace the switch anyway which I feel would be a good idea since I am there, and the dash panels were pretty delicate to remove without breaking them. I read your instructions and watched the YouTube video you included, and I hope that putting the switch in, turning it, locking it in, and adjusting it is easier than it looks on the video (guy's hand was in the way). I thought I would upload a video so you can see what I found. The switch itself appears to be an original one due to the writing on the outside of it. Any thoughts?

Well, that was almost a repair! I would replace the screw as it looks thinner than the normal bumper so it may not be pushing the plunger in fully. The plastic is always "fun" it starts to get brittle after about 6-7 years. The main issue with the switch install is because of the location, it's hard to grab it real solid and you don't have a lot of leverage.

I completed the replacement of the switch and the new bumper. I purchased the bumper from the local dealer for about $5. The new switch I got from AutoZone for $25-$30. Here is a video of the completed job. Thanks for your help! I will have the owner drive it for a few weeks then we will take it back to AutoZone and scan the car for the codes. We'll see if the C1513 code clears. It should. Then I will reply again and confirm that.

You do realize that putting a new part on an 11 year old car means that other parts will start failing because they are jealous? The code should clear on it's own as soon as the system sees that the switch is now working, but clearing it on it's own isn't a bad thing either.

Should be the Light blue for the turn signals, but trying both won't hurt anything.

did you send the wrong message regarding turn signals?

Well that is strange. That was supposed to go to a different question. Please disregard. Not sure why it turned up here.