After replacing the brakes the brake pedal is not working properly

Tiny
DANNYFREEMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 HYUNDAI ELANTRA
  • 2.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 178,000 MILES
I have replaced the brake booster, master cylinder, both front brake hoses, the caliper on passenger side twice, the brake pads on front and I have bled all four lines at least 50 + times. Two and a half bottles and the brake distribution box below the master cylinder took apart and cleaned and the springs are good and strong. I can't get a full brake pedal for nothing. I have also adjusted the rear brake shoes several times.
Tuesday, December 8th, 2020 AT 12:00 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good evening,

You need a scan tool that can access the ABS system to bleed the air from the control module.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-bleed-or-flush-a-car-brake-system

I posted the procedure below for you to follow.

Roy

BLEEDING OF BRAKE SYSTEM
This procedure should be used to insure adequate bleeding and filling of ABS unit, brake lines, master cylinder.

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1. Remove the reservoir cap and fill the brake reservoir with brake fluid.

CAUTION: Do not allow brake fluid remain on a painted surface. Wash it off immediately.

NOTE: When bleeding by pressured fluid, do not depress the brake pedal.

Recommended fluid: DOT3 or equivalent

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2. Connect the clear plastic tube to the wheel cylinder bleeder plug and insert the other end of tube in a half filled clear plastic bottle.

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3. Connect Scan tool to Data Link Connector located underneath the dash panel.

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4. Select and operate according to the instruction on the Scan tool screen.

CAUTION: You have to obey maximum operating time (60 sec) of ABS motor with Scan tool to prevent motor pump burnt.

1. Select Hyundai vehicle diagnosis.
2. Select TIBURON OR ELANTRA.

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3. Select Anti-Lock brake system.

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4. Select air bleeding mode.

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5. Press 'YES' to operate motor pump and solenoid valve.

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6. Wait 60 sec. to operate the air bleeding again. (If not, you may damage the motor)

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5. Pump the brake pedal several times, and then loosen the bleeder screw until fluid starts to run out without bubbles. Then close the bleeder screw.
6. Repeat the step 5. until there are no more bubbles in the fluid for each wheel in the sequence shown in the illustration.
7. Tighten the bleeder screw.
Bleeder screw tightening torque: 7 - 13 Nm (70 - 130 kg.cm, 5 - 9.6 ft. lbs.)
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Thursday, February 25th, 2021 AT 11:17 AM
Tiny
DANNYFREEMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Thank you for the reply and unfortunately I have completed that process each wheel at least 25 to 30 times and that's no exaggeration. There are no air bubbles and I've already went through two and a half of the big bottles of dot three brake fluid.
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Thursday, February 25th, 2021 AT 11:17 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Did you use a scan tool to bleed the ABS unit? The air will not come out at the wheels at all.

Roy
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Thursday, February 25th, 2021 AT 11:17 AM
Tiny
DANNYFREEMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
I do apologize if I mentioned that it did but when you turn on the switch there is no ABS light that comes on the dash. So I don't believe this vehicle comes with ABS brakes. It has disc brakes in front and drum brakes and rear, I don't know if that helps or not. I mean I've been a mechanic for 30 years and I've never had one stump me like this it's driving me crazy.
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Thursday, February 25th, 2021 AT 11:17 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
I attached a picture of the location for you. If you have ABS, it will be there.

As far as the pedal, try using vice grips on the brake hoses. With the vice grips attached see if you have a nice hard pedal.

If you do, release the vice grips one at a time until the pedal gets soft. That will be the wheel that contains air.

Roy
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Thursday, February 25th, 2021 AT 11:17 AM

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