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My brakes keep locking up and sticking?

Tiny
MRD1973
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 5.7L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 145,000 MILES
First this is what I have done so far: (1) replaced all steel lines complete front to rear. (2) replaced all rubber lines front to rear.(3) replaced booster.(4) replaced master cylinder. (5) replaced front rotors/pads/and calibers.(6) replaced complete rear brake assemblies drums/hardware/and shoes. (7)proportion valve. All parts are brand new GM parts. My problem is the right front caliber keeps sticking and I have replaced the right front front three times and still it sticks and burns up the pads and rotor. It is like driving down the road towing a heavy trailer. When I go to stop sometimes the pedal is firm other times it is spongy. I have checked for possible kinks in all lines and there are none. I have also rechecked all rubber lines and found no issues. When I bleed the brakes the fluid pours out with no problem. I am at my wits end on this and all most ready to send this to the crusher.
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Saturday, May 5th, 2018 AT 1:44 PM

33 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good afternoon.

Try this:

After driving it, go to the wheel and open the bleeder. See if it releases the brakes. If it does, the ABS control unit is the issue not allowing back flow to the master.

Roy
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Saturday, May 5th, 2018 AT 1:50 PM
Tiny
MRD1973
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Just a question about this style of ABS system. If I pull the fuse and drive it will this have the same results on the return pressure?
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Saturday, May 5th, 2018 AT 1:54 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
No, that just disables the electronic portion of the system. Fluid still goes through the unit.

Roy
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Saturday, May 5th, 2018 AT 2:02 PM
Tiny
MRD1973
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Thanks for your time and help on this, I was afraid it was going to be this. I should have went with my gut the first time instead of the proportion valve. But again thanks and I will give your advice a try and send you some kind of feed back. Have a great day.
Mark D
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Saturday, May 5th, 2018 AT 2:06 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
You are welcome Mark. Keep us updated.

Roy
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Saturday, May 5th, 2018 AT 2:09 PM
Tiny
MRD1973
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Good evening Roy. I tried your advice and yes the bleeder did spit up a short stream of fluid and released the caliber from the rotor. My question before I put more money into this, the ABS electronic control module is what you state is the issue, is there any chance the ABS pump assembly could play a role in my problem or do you think it is just the ABS control module (Kelsey Hayes)? Thanks for any help you can give.
Mark D
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Sunday, May 6th, 2018 AT 11:49 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
It is the hydraulic unit that is the issue.

I attached a picture. It is the unit itself that has stuck valves.

Roy
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Sunday, May 6th, 2018 AT 11:53 AM
Tiny
MRD1973
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
That is what I was afraid of. By the time I finish with this I will have almost $1,500.00 in the brakes on a 1997 K 1500. But I really do appreciate all of your help and will highly recommend you guys to everyone I know.
Mark D

Make you a great deal on a truck minor brake issues, lol.
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Sunday, May 6th, 2018 AT 12:03 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
LOL. Thanks. Got a headache of my own.

Roy
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Sunday, May 6th, 2018 AT 12:05 PM
Tiny
MRD1973
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Good evening Roy,
I just finished installing the new ABS pump and bled the system and brakes felt great. However, on the ride home about fifteen miles I started to get a very bad vibration from the right front wheel. It felt as though the wheel was coming off and when I pulled over that ever so familiar smell of cooked brake pads was over whelming. Another $500.00 into the brake system and I still have the same issue. Any ideas on this?
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Thursday, May 10th, 2018 AT 1:14 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Did you flush the system of all fluid?

Roy
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Thursday, May 10th, 2018 AT 1:40 PM
Tiny
JIM DEARMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1994 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 4.3L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 190,000 MILES
I applied the brakes hard while being towed with a chain, the engine wasn't running, the brakes are stuck on.
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 11:57 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,640 POSTS
Hello,

It sounds like the brake master has not fully returned. To confirm the issue lets remove the mounting nuts for the master cylinder to see if the truck will move again. Please let me know
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 11:57 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2CP-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 4,540 POSTS
  • 1991 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 13,000 MILES
Front drivers side brake seems to be dragging. Gets worse the more you drive and wheel gets pretty hot. After letting off brake pedal to go you can feel it "sticking" for a few seconds. Also right rear keeps having air bubbles after hours of bleeding. Within the last few days we have replaced the booster, master cylinder, calipers, pads, shoes, and wheel cylinders. Brakes work and has a good pedal but what could be causing this?
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 12:01 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
If you replaced the caliper and it still sticks, I would say that the rubber hose to the brake caliper needs replaced. They deteriorate inside and when you hit the brakes, fluid goes one way, but can't return. Thus, the brake sticks. Check that and let me know what you find.
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 12:01 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NINETY SILVERADO
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
  • 1990 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 230,000 MILES
I have a '90 Chevy 1500, and I recently replaced the front brake caliper because the piston was locked up and dragging. The new one went in with no issues, and I was bleeding the brakes, when I realized I needed new sealing washers on the banjo bolt, because it was leaking. So those were replaced and I bled them again, and once again the piston froze up. I checked it today, 2 days later, and the rotor spun free. I pumped the brake, and they locked up again. So obviously it's not the piston, but something else in the brake system. How can I diagnose the problem?
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 12:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PROTECH1980
  • MEMBER
  • 901 POSTS
Check brake hose to that caliper, Over time brake hoses can break down inside and become essentially a one way valve
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 12:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NINETY SILVERADO
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
After doing some research I think that may be what is happening. Thanks for your reply.
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 12:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PROTECH1980
  • MEMBER
  • 901 POSTS
Your welcome
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 12:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MB12868
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 1990 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 130,000 MILES
When pushing on the brakes, the rear brakes are more aggressive than the front brakes. It gets real interesting when it is slick out as the back breaks lock-up and there is limited front brakes.

These are hydraulic assist brakes that came in these things.

Brakes are new this summer, front calipers are new also. Issue was present before replacement. There are no liquids on the drums or pads. Bled the front brakes.

There is a ABS control module and ABS Hydraulic Unit, I don't know if there is a proportioning valve in this or not.

Any help on ideas on what this could be would be great.
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 12:02 PM (Merged)

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