Blown Head Gasket and Radiator leak?

Tiny
JPJM65
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 BUICK LUCERNE
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 87,000 MILES
My car listed above is dead, I was told it has a blown head gasket radiator leak and needs a new engine. I am not going to put any more money into the car. However, since I drive very sparingly (I drive 12 miles a day to work (6 both ways) and we use my wife's car for everything else. So I am wondering if I could extend the life of my car for maybe a few months (anything further would be a bonus) I am thinking of two options, 1, Would be using both radiator leak to temporarily fix the radiator and Head Gasket sealant to temporarily fix the Head Gasket, If this is even worth trying. Would I apply them both at the same time or separately and if so which one first? My second option is this, when driving home from the mechanic I had no problem, and the car did not overheat. So, I was thinking Since my job is only 6 miles away If I kept coolant in my car in case of overheating. Would it be possible to drive my car to work and if it should start to overheat? Pull over, give it 15-20 minutes to cool and then continue to work. At least for a short while.
Friday, January 26th, 2024 AT 12:48 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Hi,

I have a few questions. First, do you see coolant mixing with the engine oil, white smoke from the exhaust, or do you smell a sweet smell from the exhaust? Does the engine have a misfire?

Take a look through this link and see if anything mirrors what you are seeing:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test

The idea that it ran well and didn't overheat leads me to think the problem is a leaking radiator that was filled by the shop and temporarily prevented the overheating problem. The cylinder head gasket won't repair itself and allow everything to work properly.

Let me know as much as you can. Also, if there is a leak from the radiator and you plan to get rid of the vehicle soon, then you could use a sealer for it. I do not recommend an aluminum power sealer. I would do that first to eliminate the leak and see if other problems exist.

If they don't, drive it. Just keep an eye on the coolant level. Also, if the leak is repaired and the problems still exist, then there could be a head gasket issue which you can address with something like Blue Devil head gasket repair products.

No matter what, if you are not worried about possibly causing the problem to worsen, (it may or may not), yes, you should be able to get a couple of months out of it.

Let me know if I can help.

Joe
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Friday, January 26th, 2024 AT 7:36 PM
Tiny
JPJM65
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
When my car overheated after it cooled down and I was waiting for a tow I checked the oil and it looked normal (It did not look milky as I later read could be a clear sign of a bad head gasket and yes I know that just because the oil was normal does not mean the head gasket was blown. As I said the drive home from the mechanic was very short (no more than 5 minutes) so I do know that the fact that the car ran normal does not mean it is ok, I do not feel safe driving it to work right now which is also 5 minutes away, What I am going to do is this I ordered K Seal HD, (This may have been a mistake because I read later that HD is for bigger engines like trucks and tractors so I will read and check to see if it is ok for cars and if not I will order the regular K SEAL, The reason I bought K Seal HD is because I figured with two leaks (radiator, blown head gasket) it might be the better choice, Either way when I install it (I am not sure yet do I put antifreeze in before or after) I plan to drive it around locally when I am off work and take it too another mechanic for a 2nd diagnosis.
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Saturday, January 27th, 2024 AT 8:07 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Hi,

That sounds like a plan. I'm not familiar with the product, so I looked it up. I wouldn't recommend the HD based on what I read. It is exactly like you mentioned, for larger engines, commercial vehicles, and tractors.

The pic below is what appears to be what you need. Yes, there must be coolant in the system because you have to install it and then allow the engine to reach operating temp. If you have to add, just leave enough room for the K-seal. Also, I know it is extremely important to follow the manufacturer's directions with this type of product.

If you can, let me know if it works. If it does, it is supposed to be a permanent repair, so don't be worried about keeping it. It has low mileage for the 3.1L engine. Also, the most common location for a coolant leak on these is the intake manifold.

Take care of yourself and let me know if you have questions,

Joe

See pic below.
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Saturday, January 27th, 2024 AT 7:19 PM

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