My battery light is on

Hello,

This might be a problem with the serpentine belt tensioner. I have included a guide and a the diagrams below a charging system flowchart that should enable you to track down the problem. Go through it and let us know what you find out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

You need to have the computer scanned to identify why the lights are on. It should lead you to the problem. Most parts stores will do it for free.

Any testing of the generator must be done while the problem is occurring, otherwise it will test good. With the mileage you listed, you can expect to find worn brushes inside the generator. They will cause an intermittent no-charge condition, and it could go on like that for months.

I don't know which brand of generator is used on your car. If you can see it and you see "Nippendenso" on it, I can post some pictures of how to replace the brush assembly if you can find one. Most people just replace the entire generator. I can also share how to test it for worn brushes but you'll need a test light or an inexpensive digital voltmeter, and you'll have to wait with the testing until the problem acts up.

Don't overlook the possibility of snow or water getting on the serpentine belt and forming ice that makes it slip. That would occur at engine start-up, not after you've been driving for a while.

Caradiodoc

So you have a no crank no start?Or no crank no start?

SAT9 MEANT NO CRANK AT ALL----OR IT DOES CRANK, JUST WON'T BUST OFF AND RUN

'CEPT HE WAS TRYING TO USE MECHANIC TERMINOLOGY AND HIS LAST PART SHOULDA SAID."OR CRANKS, BUT WON'T START"!

THE MEDIC

Thanks for the correction lol.

Try out these tips before going the replacement route; they just may do the trick:

Do a battery cable reset by disconnecting the positive and negative battery cables and touching them together for 15 minutes with the ignition switch turned to ON (II) ENGINE OFF. A battery cable reset forces all capacitors in that component to discharge faster, and it clears and resets the computer memory. If a software glitch is the culprit, a battery cable reset will fix the problem just as effectively as installing a new component would. Before you do this procedure though, make sure the battery has a full charge. A low battery can cause electronic components to not work right or not work at all.

Unplug the connectors from the component, wait a few minutes, and then plug them back in. If a poor connection is the culprit, the simple act of unplugging and plugging in the connector cleans the terminal contact surfaces and usually fixes the problem. While you've got the connector unplugged, look for witness marks on the terminals-they indicate a good, tight fit. If you suspect loose terminals, remove a female terminal and use it like a feeler gauge to check the fit.

Hi,

The lights you mentioned. Do you mean they are on when the engine isn't running or trying to start it? Does the engine sound normal when cranking? If that is the case, the lights are not a concern at this point. Lets start simple. Here is a link that reviews the most common causes of a crank no start condition. See if it helps.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Let me know if that helps or if you have other questions. Additionally, let me know if this happened all at once and what the conditions were when it happened.

Take care,
Joe

Hi,

Tim, check fuse 21 in the under dash fuse box. It is a 7.5 amp fuse that most likely blew when it was over charging.

See the attached schematic and let me know what you find.

Joe

Hello,

This could be a problem with the shielding on the highlighted wire that is on the charging circuit wiring diagram that I have included for you in the diagrams down below. I have also included a guide on how to find a short to ground and how to induce intermittent conditions in an automotive electrical circuit for you as well. You will need to use a Digital Multi-meter to use these guides, so here is a link below explaining how to use one, if needed:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

If the shielding around the wire is okay then there is also a possibility of an intermittent short to ground in the highlighted wire in between ECM/PCM and the gauge control module causing the warning light to illuminate. Please go through these guides and get back to us with what you are able to find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros