Car not started in a couple years

Tiny
THUNKER67
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 OLDSMOBILE AURORA
  • V8
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 65,000 MILES
I got this car from my uncle. It was well serviced by his mom, but after he got it, he neglected to start it occasionally.
I put a new battery in. Replaced the fuel pump (the hose on the pump was broken) Replaced the fuel filter. Drained the gas tank of the orange-ish bad smelling gas.
Got it to start. Engine smoothed out after some initial stumbling. Decided to drive around the block. Ran decent but didn't have a lot of response when I floored it to "kick out the carbon"
Then it stalled in a parking lot. Got it started, drove 40', stalled again. Sat for thirty minutes, it started again enough to get home. I replaced the fuel filter again under a friends suggestion. The current fuel pressure reads 38-40 on a Schrader gauge connected to the end of the fuel rail. When I turn the ignition on I hear an occasional click, but can't tell where its coming from (as the fan runs when I turn the key). My friend is suggesting replacing the fuel pressure gauge?
Also, when I hear the click sound, I notice the gauge needle jump slightly.

Help! I'm just a carpenter trying to get a free car back on the road.
Tuesday, April 30th, 2019 AT 7:54 PM

14 Replies

Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello,

I would suggest looking at the spark plugs and wires. If the fuel looks like that, then the spark plug wires might be a little dried out as well. Are there any codes present? I have included in the diagrams down below the location of your vehicle's Data Link Connector and instructions on how to retrieve the codes. Please get back to us with what you are able to find out.

Thanks,
Alex
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Wednesday, May 1st, 2019 AT 4:45 AM
Tiny
THUNKER67
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I don't have a tester. And I'm unclear on how to ground this to get the code?
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Wednesday, May 1st, 2019 AT 6:08 AM
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
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Hello again,

Did you read what I sent along with my last answer? You will need to get a wire long enough so that when you ground it you can see your Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) or "check engine light". Insert the wire into the B pin (new diagrams Included) and then insert the other end into the A pin. A paper clip works great for this. Then count the blinks of the "check engine light" as instructed in the previous diagrams and get back to us with any codes that are present.

Thanks,
Alex
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Wednesday, May 1st, 2019 AT 7:01 AM
Tiny
THUNKER67
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  • 8 POSTS
Yes. I've read everything you sent. Awesome, so far. My only hesitation is I'm not seeing anything identifying an A and B. I don't want to guess/mess something up by not jumping the right terminals. Jumping the A and B pins with a wire/paper clip, is the information I needed.
I'm not seeing "new diagrams included " identifying A and B. Not sure if you didn't attach it, or I'm overlooking it?
Thanks for your help/patience.
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Wednesday, May 1st, 2019 AT 8:01 AM
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
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Hello again,

Ugh! I'm sorry about that. Another thing I wanted to mention is this is a 12 pin connector. You have a 16 pin Data Link Connector and a 12 pin connector. It looks like the picture you sent was of the 16 pin connector. The diagrams are in the diagrams down below. Please let us know how everything turns out please.

Thanks,
Alex
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Wednesday, May 1st, 2019 AT 8:25 AM
Tiny
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That makes more sense! Lol. Thanks Alex, you're awesome. I'm going to try and find time this evening to find it/give it a try. I'll check back with the results.
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Wednesday, May 1st, 2019 AT 9:05 AM
Tiny
THUNKER67
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  • 8 POSTS
The only thing I'm seeing(under the driver's side dash) is the 16 pin connector, which has it's own sliding door access lid. Do I need to remove the whole lower dash covering to find the 12 pin connector?
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Thursday, May 2nd, 2019 AT 6:30 AM
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
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Hello again,
"
Okay, i'm sorry. Your vehicle is equipped with EITHER a 16 pin DLC connector(your vehicle) OR a 12 pin DLC connector WHICH will allow you to ground pins B and A to obtain flash codes. Unfortunately, your vehicle will require an OBD1 code reader. If you can get your car to a local auto parts store, like Autozone, they should be able to read the DTC(s), if any, for you. Your MIL or :check engine" light is illuminated, right?

Thanks,
Alex
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Thursday, May 2nd, 2019 AT 10:42 AM
Tiny
THUNKER67
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Ya, the check engine lights on/works. I was convinced to buy a Bosch code reader by an O'Reilly's Auto Parts guy. Didn't fit/work. Read an article saying I can't use a generic code reader, that I have to use a professional scan tool? As it's a transition year, and it's OBD1 & OBD2?
Looked at buying the high dollar Bosch one, (pictures attached) but no one at the store could confirm that it would work on the 1995 Aurora.
I'm considering replacing the Fuel Pressure Regulator in the meantime?
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Thursday, May 2nd, 2019 AT 5:45 PM
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
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Hello again,

What happened here is your vehicle is an OBD1 DLC and takes an OBD1 code reader. You got sold an OBD2 code reader. The transition year was 1996. All 1995 and newer vehicle's are required by law to have OBD2 systems. Your vehicle is right at the transitional point, that's why it doesn't have the 12 pin connector to get the flash codes off of. I looked on the Autozone website for you and they have a GM OBD1 code reader for $29.99. I'm not sure what the OBD2 code reader cost, but I would take it back and get my money back, or exchange it for what you need, and get the difference back. But that's what is going on. Please get back to us and we will get this figured out.

Thanks,
Alex
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Thursday, May 2nd, 2019 AT 9:35 PM
Tiny
THUNKER67
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A little bit of miscommunication. I purchased an OBDI code reader, that didn't specifically list an Aurora, but several Oldsmobile cars, because the guy assured me it would "probably work " I couldn't get it to connect. Returned it.
While at the store I read the article that said it required a professional type scanner, not a basic code reader. The pics I attached were of one that says it does Both. I didn't purchase it. I'll check the Autozone website now
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Friday, May 3rd, 2019 AT 5:18 AM
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
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Hello again,

Okat. In the mean time I have included a troubleshooting flowchart that may or may not be of us here in the diagrams down below for you. If it is not pertinent now(which I believe it is), than it's just good to have, Please get back to us when you are ready to get back at it.

Thanks,
Alex
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Friday, May 3rd, 2019 AT 7:27 AM
Tiny
THUNKER67
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Okay, I'm back. I've replaced the fuel pressure regulator (as well as the fuel pump and filter. And new spark plugs) Still having issues. The Schrader Gauge still reads about 38lbs.
Side Note: I jumped in and turned the key and it started and ran for thirty seconds maybe. This was after it sitting for days without an attempt.
I've purchased a CP9690 Actron Elite Code Reader that supposedly works on a 95 Aurora
I'm getting an "Internal Error" message when using the OBD2 connector on the port under the dash. The Actron representative is telling me that I should have a OBD1 connector located under the hood as well. So my question is Where would I find this? He said it's usually near the firewall.
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Monday, May 20th, 2019 AT 8:27 AM
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
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Hello again,

The only Data Link Connector (DLC) is the one that you have found under the driver's side under the sliding access panel. As per message before, this is and either/or situation as your vehicle's year is tight at the threshold in between OBD1 and OND2. In the circuit description that I have sent along in the diagrams down below, it talks about a GM TECH1 scan tool. I have looked on eBay and they have them available for $24.99. You might want to mention this to Actron. Please get back to us with what is happening and we will continue from there. Very sorry about any mix up or miscommunications.

Thanks,
Alex
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Tuesday, May 21st, 2019 AT 5:59 PM

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