Seven fuel issues?

A lot of changes.

At what point in the changes did it go South?

Or

Have you made all of these changes at once?

Can you send some pics all over the engine with the breather removed?

----The Medic

I have 2 things that might aid you.

The 1st--Sorta forget the "304" parts and go by the 258 stuff.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/jeep-cj7-1985-jeep-cj7-stalls-when-hot

This '82 is as close to '84 as I can get you with what I have.

I have earlier ones too.

https://oljeep.com/edge_82_tsm.html

You need to clean the leaves out of the tub's gutter behind the hood!

Keep us updated!

----The Medic

Those two are "Musts"!

Another you may really need is for Power Brakes, that is if you have them (I don't on mine)

Other items that used vacuum might be eliminated, such as EGR and other emissions related stuff.

If you live in an area that tests your emissions and are not "Grandfathered In" somehow. (Some places waive the tests if the vehicle is beyond a certain age), otherwise they may want all of the stuff put back on.

Did either of the links I sent help you at all?

More pics?

I had to be given a PM to let me know that you responded.

I do not know why I did not get a notification?

----The Medic

Do you have all of the vacuum ports plugged off that are not in use?

Finding Top Dead Center (TDC)

More pics ! Especially top and driver's side

This is a 4 stroke engine it takes 2 complete crankshaft revolutions to make 1 cycle.

In doing so, the timing marks will be at zero twice.

TDC only will be achieved once. That is, TDC on the compression stroke (the stroke which fires the spark plug)(I was taught, TDC was only on the compression stroke----the exhaust stroke topping out don't count!)

In order to find which revolution TDC is at, try this procedure.

Hide your keys ( It cannot start accidentally with no keys!/Chock your wheels/ go to neutral

Remove #1 spark plug

Stick it back in, maybe 2 threads (instead of using your thumb)

Rotate the engine with a wrench or ratchet (not the starter) it's too EZ to bump it too far if you are new at this.

Clockwise as viewed from the grill.

When you hear the "hiss" coming by #1 plugSTOP! ( A friend may be helpful to hear this at #1, the other cylinders hiss internally (usually a lot fainter) when you rotate the engine manually.

Now, we are on/ beginning the compression stroke on #1 cylinder (piston has just started coming up)

We are nott up yet!

Ever so slowly rotate the engine (CW) till your timing mark (line) lines up with zero!

STOP!

YOU ARE AT TDC !

Back to finding TDC of the engine.

OK, back to our slow-motion movements!

Now look at the rotor button.

It should be facing one of the towers on the 'stributor (or close)

. Or whichever tower you chose to be #1 (textbook position or not)

The engine/ cam/ crank don't care which one it is!

As long as you were at TDC, you placed #1 spark plug wire on "that tower" (the one that rotor is pointing to)

Your firing order starts there- and runs the sequence clockwise (looking down on the distributor cap)

Note: If Mr. Distributor will not drop fully into the down position, you may have to pull it out again and turn/ tweak the oil pump's slot (center/ in the distributor hole) slightly so the "Flat Screwdriver-y" type tip of the lower end of the distributor shaft will drop into the slot and be able to drive/ turn the oil pump. I tweak it's position a little at a time with a screwdriver until it drops in.

----The Medic

Make sure it is not sucking air somewhere! Cap/ plug/ etc any open lines.

Here's my "Dash Gauge"---it is not a must at all!

I have it to diagnose my Goods or Bads, or tuning! (It's usually goods)

Mine is The 1st scenario in the video!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NrnzD7PgoHI

Here's my dash vacuum gauge---it's the top right one over the cigarette lighter